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HOW THE F*****************CK DO I TIGHTEN THAT F************CKIN NUT FOR THE BALL CONNECTOR?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

so this is my story so far:
removed the torsion bars FIRST, i dont know if this was the right thing to do or not, but the trunk slammed on my knee (i knew it would come flying down, but as i was fighting so hard with the second torsion bar, my leg that was up to stop the trunk from falling fell out of place and the trunk came flying down).

had to have my roommate hold up the trunk for like half an hour while i drilled a hole for the ball connector (it took FOREVER because my drill could obviously not access that small area, so MY GOD was that a pain. i created a tiny hole by hammering a VERY pointy SCREW as hard as i could for a few minutes. THEN i created a slightly bigger hole by drilling will a DRILL BIT TIP FOR A SCREW. then i was finally able to put a 5/16" drill in at an angle).

so after a REALLY messed up knee and a nasty slice on my hand, i had a hole.
turns out the hole was WAY too far from the existing circular opening to ever try and get a nut tightened up there. now that i knew how to do it, though, it took my like 5 minutes to drill a new hole much closer to the circular opening. i then made my ORIGINAL hole MUCH bigger so i could stick one finger in there to be able to guide a washer and a nut to the right place (i used an angle-nosed plier to get the washer and nut thru the circular opening, and with one pinkie kinda guided it into place.

SO AFTER ALL THIS: my trunk alignment is off and the trunk doesnt close unless i slam it a few times (when i got my CWest body kit put on, my trunk didnt close easily anymore because of some tabs that were on the rear bumper, so i used to have to slam it anyways to close it.) but now i throw it almost as hard as i can and it doesnt close. only after a few tries it'll close, but i feel like im gunna brake something.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, 1) how do i get that nut locked in place without drilling TWO holes?
2) with the second lever in place, you think my trunk will lign up correctly again???
hahahahaha fuck i find this hilarious cause this is usually what happens to me when i try to do something.. always make the job take twice as long.. except luckily the vsc disable switch was reletively easy if i wasn't colour blind and cut the wrong wire first...
 

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wow. good stuff. I think rock auto has some of the gas lifts for like 10 bucks. I got some for my sc400 a while back.
 

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hahahahaha fuck i find this hilarious cause this is usually what happens to me when i try to do something.. always make the job take twice as long.. except luckily the vsc disable switch was reletively easy if i wasn't colour blind and cut the wrong wire first...
wowww talk about bringing this thread back from the dead hahaha.
yea i did this years ago. i still have them, work GREAT.

i do remember how much i hated installing them at the time. i was in college, DEFINITELY didn't have the appropriate tools, smashed my knee when the trunk slammed down during install. but all part of the beautiful history of my baby that i've had for almost NINE years now (crazzy when i think about it!)
 

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Good DIY to free up more space in the trunk. But in case more people rush out to do this mod for the purpose of having the trunk pop open upon release, you can actually bend the torsion bars to they create more tension. My dealer did that for me back in the day, so when I pop the trunk now, it fully extends to vertical. Depending on how much you bend the bars, it will pop open more/less, faster/slower so it will definitely still pop if you have a heavy spoiler.
 

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Since the thread is already back from the dead...

First of all, this is genius. Second, is the body of the strut above the rod when the lid is closed? Because it should be in order for the oil in the tube to keep the seal properly lubricated, prolonging the life of the strut.

Also, anyone know the fully-extended length of that strut? I think I might try to rustle one up that has ball and sockets on both ends.
 

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Going to give this a go to accomodate a rear deck mount sealed box. I recall you had to cut the bars off. Was it both bars that had to be cut off (and yes, I recall you said they got real hot)? Also, the rivets on the arm, how did you get them off? Power drill? Thanks.
 

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Went to take another look at the trunk. One of the rivet is facing the outside and there isn't much space to get a drill in there. How did you get that one out?
 

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I'm going to start on this soon. Just ordered the struts. Where did you guys buy the rubber stoppers from? Can I just go to Home Depot? What are they normally referred to as?
 

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^^^ Yes, Home Depot/Lowes/ACE has them. Just look around in the door hardware section with the hinges, doorbells, door knobs, and what not...
 

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Did this today. I didn't have to cut the torsion bar. I work them loose in the middle from the clip on hinge, then pull toward me and work one end loose (If you were to take a look you'll see which end as the other end can't pop off), and then repeat for the other hinge. Drilled out the rivet, and had to hammer out the pin. I installed the hydraulic at the same mounting point on the body, but I moved it out more toward the edge so that it has more space to rotate upwards. I tried using the oem hole on the arm, but the trunk wouldn't close fully as the hydraulic itself couldn't contract enough when compressed. Drill a second hole about an inch from the oem hole, but that is still a bit close and really I need to drill one more hole one inch closer to the hinge. Bump stop is really needed to make this work. I actually couldn't find any, and made one using a cork for now.
 

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\/ Awesome \/
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Discussion Starter #52
Sorry I didn't see these messages earlier. Yes, you certainly need to drill new holes for the mounting of the struts. The OEM ones on the hinge wont work like Johnny said, it wont close.

Bump stops are also a requirement. This shit opens with force so yeah, don't run without them.
 

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Couple of tips. Having a telescopic mop helps. Mine was wedge into the nook where the trunk release handle was to keep the trunk open. My mop was pretty strong, so I was confident it wasn't going to collapse and come crashing down on me. To drill the holes on the body, my drill was too long and I couldn't get it in the space. Having a dremel with a drill bit helped tremendous.
 

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Sorry I didn't see these messages earlier. Yes, you certainly need to drill new holes for the mounting of the struts. The OEM ones on the hinge wont work like Johnny said, it wont close.

Bump stops are also a requirement. This shit opens with force so yeah, don't run without them.
Where did you find these rubber stops? Autozone?
 

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Haha gonna revive an old thread again... I am going to do this mod cuz the brackets that hold my torsion bars are broken and the trunk barely stays open. Should be a quick install, thanks for the detailed pix!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Going to bring this one back since it was requested by another member who will be doing this soon.
 

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I am going to have to try this mod too. I have recently been having trunk troubles. My torsenbars are useless now since the hinge in the trunk have broken off. I will be nice to have some trunk support again.
Also, now the trunk release latch that you pull on the floor on the drivers side to open the trunk wont work. it seems like whatever cable that the latch pulls on to pop the trunk is too loose and you cant pull it enough to open it. I am forced to use the key fob.
Does anyone know if there is an adjustment on that lever that I can do to get my trunk to open? any other ideas?? thanks
 

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^^^ you need to remove the plastic/felt(?) panel that covers the trunk lid, under there you can check the cable end for the release lever... there may be a cable end/stop that has broken or come loose allowing the sheath for the cable to move when the cable is pulled vs being held in place so the inner cable only moves the latch....


Also PROPS to OP Italyn Stallion!!! this is a GREAT mod... I can't understand HOW i missed this way back when..!?!

heres my deal: i have the CF VIS trunk lid... long ago i swapped out one of the orig torsion bars for a stronger one cause when lexus added the spoiler to the cars they use a stronger torsion bar /spring... my car had the spoiler but the older springs for some reason ... so my lid would unlock and pop but not lift...

The dealer swapped out one weak torsion bar for one strong one & that fixed it... THEN i got the VIS CF trunk & even with the TRD CF Spoiler the trunk freakin FLYS up even faster than yours did in that original video... been like that since i swapped the trunk so ... 8 years..... i keep thinking ONE DAY it will catch me or some one else on the chin....


PS...i HAVE launched a couple of birds off my trunk before .... it was funny as hell... :)


SO... i will be doing this mod this weekend... is there anymore info from anyone on best prices for the camry struts... ?



ed G
 

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Very cool mod, might have to try this since my trunk doesn't or has never popped up itself ever since I bought it.
 
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