Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 84 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Like many people are starting to notice our bushings are starting to wear out. There are a couple different choices available, but I went the OEM route. This means replacing the entire LCA. The bushings in my No. 1 LCA appear to be OK.



Parts list:

EDIT:
I also used some plastic ramps to load my suspension and a wire brush to clean thread locker off of my OEM bolts.

1. Raise the front end. I usually drive up onto 2x8 planks which gives my low profile jack enough clearance to slide under the front lip. I forget who's pic this is, but this is my front jack-point.




2. Unbolt the No. 2 LCA. The front 2 bolts are 19mm and torqued to 181 Ft-Lbs. My impact gun wasn't strong enough, so I broke them loose with my breaker bar. Remove the 17mm bolt going through the No. 2 LCA and into the front suspension member brace (triangle brace).



Another angle:


3. Unbolt all 6 of the 14mm bolts holding in the front brace (2 bolts by each No. 2 LCA and 2 up front)





3. Now that the brace is free, pull down on it to free up the #2 LCA. The LCA is on a pin and can slide downward until free. Rotate the LCA away from the center until it is completely free from the car.



4. Slide the new #2 LCA into place above the #1 LCA. Rotate the back of the #2 LCA toward the rear pin. Pull down on the suspension brace, and slip the bushing end of the #2 LCA below the pin. At this point, it should slide right on.





5. Both the 17mm and 19mm bolts have Red thread locker applied from the factory, and you need to clean off the old thread locker before reinstalling.





Now that the new #2 LCA is in place, it can be partially bolted in (but NOT torqued). To get the #1 and #2 LCA's to line up, push the #1 LCA back and forth until the holes line up. I put a 19mm bolt in place and turned it 3-4x to to hold the suspension in place. With the first bolt in place, the second 19mm bolt should go right in. DO NOT BOLT IN SUSPENSION BRACE YET.

TIP: If you are having trouble getting the #1 and #2 arms to line up, loosen the bushing end of the #2 LCA. That should give you enough movement to line up the arms, and get get the bolts to thread.



9. Repeat process for the other side

10. Now that both #2 suspension arms are in place, bolt up the front suspension brace that was unbolted in step 2. These six 14mm bolts will be torqued to 43 Ft-Lbs.

11. With the brace bolted in, the #2 arm in place, and all of the 17mm and 19mm bolts cleaned off, I applied Red thread locker to the first 19mm bolt and snugged it down. Take the partially threaded 19mm bolt right next to the one you just put in, apply thread locker, and snug the bolt down (not torqued!). Apply thread locker to the 17mm bolt and snug it down on the bushing end of the #2 LCA. Repeat the process for the other side.

12. Before torquing down the 17&19mm bolts, you have to load the suspension to keep the bushing from wearing out prematurely. I chose to raise the rear higher than the front, and then dropped the front wheels on ramps with wood planks underneath.



Here are a couple other suggestions:
the stabilization of the suspension means to load it by droppin it on the floor and letting it settle. i woulld torque it to spec, then drive it around the block, then lift it bakc up, and retorque as they may be slightly loosened. keep in mind I didnt say drive a hundred miles. just around the block.
stabilizing or loading the suspension means you should jack up the spindle until the suspension compresses enough to just lift the car off the jackstand then you torque everything down. this is to ensure proper bushing alignment so they do not prematurely tear.
13. With the rear raised and the front suspension loaded/stabilized, I was able to shimmy my way under the car, and finish torquing the bolts. The 17mm bolts weren't bad, but I struggled a little with the 19mm bolts. I found myself sliding around 3 inches below my car in an awkward position trying to torque these bolts to 181 Ft-Lbs.

Keep in mind that you have 10 minutes to get everything torqued from the time you apply thread locker. After that, it will set, and you may need to start over again.

The image below has the torque specs (in Ft-Lbs) highlighted.

  • 2 front 19mm bolts going through the #1 LCA and into the #2 LCA: 181 Ft-Lbs.
  • 17mm bolt going through the bushing end of the #2 LCA: 88 Ft-Lbs
  • 14mm front suspension member brace bolts (x6): 43 Ft-Lbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
nice write up, i might just go the route of purchasing bushings since i have access to a hydraulic press at a former employer. btw, i have a set of those jackstands too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I'm still a little unsure about the process--particularly about when I should torque down the two 19mm bolts and the 17mm bolt. The pdf manual I have mentioned stabilizing the suspension first, but I wasn't sure if that meant that I had to load the suspension before torquing down the bolts. If so, why?
 
  • Like
Reactions: DonCorleone

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
the stabilization of the suspension means to load it by droppint it on the floor and letting it settle. i woulld torque it to spec, then drive it around the block, then lift it bakc up, and retorque as they may be slightly loosened. keep in mind I didnt say drive a hundred miles. just around the block. and in your case, i saw you used red locktite, well, if it was applied, then torqued, well, you need to take it all back apart, clean the locktite off, then reapply, torque, test drive, and retorque. the locktite has dried by now, and is not going to do anything if you try to retorque after it has set. good luck, and nice writeup.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rvalero

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
actually stabilizing or loading the suspension means you should jack up the spindle until the suspension compresses enough to just lift the car off the jackstand then you torque everything down. this is to ensure proper bushing alignment so they do not prematurely tear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,691 Posts
Nice write up. How much you payed for the LCA?
 
  • Like
Reactions: rvalero

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mike and mav3rick, thanks for your help. I should have enough room to work if I put some planks under my ramps, and set the front wheels on the ramps.

Kraven, both sides cost me ~$230 shipped from discounttoyotaparts.com.

I'll update after I finish. I hope this helps people out in the future. If there are any unclear steps, please let me know, and I will do what I can to elaborate. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The DIY has been updated, and I think it looks pretty good. If you guys see any significant issues, please let me know, and I will make adjustments as necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice work man, this will be added to my DIY file

What was your total cost on this project?
This one cost me about $237 (2 arms + Loctite red). I already had everything else, and I was able to borrow a torque wrench that went up to 181 ft-lbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,098 Posts
This one cost me about $237 (2 arms + Loctite red). I already had everything else, and I was able to borrow a torque wrench that went up to 181 ft-lbs.
Thanks man, this will be put to use soon. I put a lot of miles on my ride and I am definitely feeling a lack in the steering. I was thinking of a master bushing set that would compliment my suspension upgrades.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
i figured id have to remove the tires to get to it. i *might* try this out with the boyfriend, might buy the parts and bring it to a friendly shop. but its really bothering me i want to fix it. thanks for the write up =]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you have access to an impact wrench, this one isn't bad at all. If you don't, it will just take longer. No wheel removal required. The No. 1 front suspension arm was a PITA for me. While you're down there, it wouldn't be a bad idea to grease your sway bar bushings. Good luck.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
4,813 Posts
What are the symptoms of needing to replace this?
-Your car shudders or gives you lots of feedback in the steering.
-poor tire wear even after alignment or walking alignment when driven off and on the alignment rack
-You look at the bushing and its torn
-You have an IS and you have never swapped it before. Rubber dry rots with time, so its not necesarily related to mileage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One of the things people tend to notice is unsteady straight-line steering. The car will pull one way or the other. Your car may also be more likely to follow grooves in the road. If the bushings are bad, your car may not be able to hold its alignment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
okay so i got the control arms off, except on the passenger side, the bushings ripped and the metal part of the bushings stayed on... any suggestions on how to get it off? I don't think I can even tow the car cuz i cant put the lca back on, which means the tires wont be able to support the weight of the car, right?

http://my.is/forums/f89/super-big-problem-plz-help-427917/

here's a pictures of my lca..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,590 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You're the one whose wheel was sliding back and forth, right? I'm guessing that you bent that pin the LCA slides onto. Does it look bent? Maybe you can straighten it out. I'm guessing that you've tried grease and vice grips? Maybe you can get it off by torching the metal ring--thermal expansion. Make sure you clean off anything flammable first. How much of a gap is there between the body and the ring? If you have enough space, you might be able to use a ball joint tool.





Good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: nrkht
1 - 20 of 84 Posts
Top