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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Reading the SophieSleeps DRL Mod and the JoeZ Full Power Mod, made me wish there was a switch. People have asked about it, but nobody did it, probably because the functionality is not worth the work. But I’m new to the IS300, I have energy, and I want to contribute. I'm sure I'm not the first to do this, but I didn't see it posted.

So here goes. I think it is a perfect DIY mod. It is cheap, looks good (if you find the right switch), easy, and it is reversible.

As far as the functionality, yes it works, but when will you use it? When do I decide to have it Full, Normal, or Off? Most likely I will leave it off, but if the feeling arises that I want it to be on, or full power, it is only a flick of a switch away.

Here is an overview of the wiring off the car


Here is a video of it in action, please hit ElusiveIS with your rep hammer for hosting this video.

In the video, the DRLs go Off - Full Power (Joez Mod) - Off - Normal - Off - Full - Off - Normal - Off - High Beam. It is a subtle difference, but it is noticeable between the "JoeZ Full Power Mod" and Normal.

http://www.elusivemedia.com/videos/Off - Full - Normal - High Beams.AVI

PARTS LIST:
Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) Switch
25 feet of 18 AWG Wire
4 female Terminals to match your switch (mine were .250, by chance)
2 Female Terminals .250 to plug into Voltage Reducer
2 Male Terminals .250 to plug into power supply

TOOLS NEEDED:
Coat Hanger
Wire Cutters
Crimpers
Electrical Tape
Solder Gun / Solder
Voltage/Am/Ohm Meter

PREPERATION:
Cut rubber nipple below main wiring loom beside the battery in the engine bay.

Straighten a coat hanger

Poke wire hanger inside hole you opened by cutting rubber nipple


Remove the trim as in the “Fog Mod”, to get entry point access under the dash.



Cut your spool of 25 feet wire into 3 lengths of 8 feet, you will need the left over foot for your "hijacker" wires.

Tape one 8 foot wire to the coat hanger with electrical tape and pull wire inside cabin of car.

Once wire is inside cabin, tape second 8 foot wire to first wire and pull it through

Repeat for third wire

Once all wires are in the cabin, make they are all even by pulling engine bay end of wires

Run wires under carpet to middle stack and to bottom switch holder.

Middle stack switch holder comes out if you stick your hand under there and pull out, as in the “Trac Switch” mod.

Pull wires through, and push out one of the unused switch plates. If you have heated seats you will have to continue wire to the left of the steering wheel.

CABIN SIDE:
Now it is time to attach terminals to the wire. I crimped and soldered all connections.

Of the three wires, one will provide power and the other two are switched. My switch is an “on-off-on”. “On” to the left will be Full (JoeZ Mod), the middle will be “Off” (SophieSleeps Mod), and to the right will be normal DRL.

All DPDT switches have six terminals (prongs). Each side is its own switch or pole. To provide power to each pole, I used one wire (rather than running two long wire lengths into the cabin) with a short “hijacker” wire to provide power to the two middle prongs.

Cut a short “hijacker” wire and join it to one of the three wires and put a female terminal on it. On the other end of the “hijacker” wire put another female terminal on it.

The other two wires left are the switched wires. Put a female terminal on each of those.

Should look like this





IMPORTANT: If you don’t know about switches or DPDT in particular, don’t follow this word for word, you need to understand the concept first and then proceed; your switch may be different. Using a DPDT switch will work, but this is not its intended purpose. Usually, DPDT switches are used in controlling electrical motors.

Plug one switched wire to one side (pole), Plug the other switched wire on the other side (pole), on the opposite end.


I taped terminals ends on the switch once installed so nothing will ground out.

Make sure you label which wire is the power wire and which are the switched wires in the engine bay as you are doing it. I used an ohm meter.

ENGINE BAY SIDE:
Once the voltage reducer is unplugged you are left with the reducer with two male prongs inside. On the loose plug end (power source), there are two female receptacles.

On the power wire, attach a male terminal.

On one of the switched wires attach a female terminal

On the other switched wire, you will need another “hijacker” wire to complete the circuit, so join one end of “hijacker” wire to the other switched wire and attach a male terminal. On other end of the “hijacker” wire attach a female terminal



Nip both male terminals with a wire cutter into the shape of a spade. .250 is too big to fit in and the next size down is too loose. Once you cut the .250 into spades they will wedge into the power source.


Plug the power wire into the left receptacle in the power source.
Attach the other male terminal into the other receptacle into the power source.

Plug the switched wire without the “hijacker wire” into the left side of the voltage reducer.

Plug the other switched wire into the other open receptacle into the voltage reducer.





Wrap-Up:
Cross your fingers, crank up your car and see if it works, I did it correct so nothing bad happened, but worse case scenario you could fry your car, best case scenario is it won’t work or you will blow a fuse.

Test switch, if it works push it into switch holder.


Back to the engine, I used zip ties to clean it up. I taped all connections afterwards, but I plan on getting some heat shrink tubing for the two main connections in the engine bay to: make it sturdier; a little more waterproof; and to reduce the chance of shorting or grounding.
 

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Excellent! I always thought about doing this, becuase there's some days that I'll see another IS and think... "man I wanna plug my DRLs back in when I get home."

+rep.
 

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petaa7 said:
damnit can't do that mod because my heated seat button is there.
petaaaaaaaa =D

put it on the left of the steering wheel. where the little coin holder things are...




here is a pic of the general area..i think u can probably do that for the ppl who have heated seats, other options there, etc.

:p

be the first to do it!

-Aaron
 

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4,888 Posts
nice, i just unplugged mine. but like isfrmholdn said i might want them back in the winter... then again i guess just plugging that plug in could save me the work....

damn i'm lazy... +rep
 

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大古古
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thats a great mod but too much work :lol:
 

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Dang, that is SWEET! Looks OEM, but it also looks like too much work for me. You should get "FULL", "ON", and "OFF" decals to stick on the switch.

+rep
 

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Podiatrist
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that is soooo much trouble for that.
Personally I don't like the idea of sticking wire terminals into the DRL plug cause it just looks kinda funky. I'd rather splice into the line somewhere else fer cleanliness.

But rep to you anyway for being insane.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for all the comments and rep to date.

Even to me, it looks like a lot of work for something you would rarely use, but it took me less than 2 hours, and it was fun. A little project to get away from the wife and baby.

I wasn't going to do it at all, until I saw the switch that was the exact size, color, and grain, as the switch holder.

I got several PMs about where I got the switch. It was from a local store and I have been trying to find it online, in case anybody wants to buy one for themselves. Worst case scenario, I can buy a bunch of them and mail them myself.

peeta7 as onyxaltezza said, you could use the coin holder or the "mystery switch panel" to the right of the steering wheel close to your right knee for the switch for those with heated seats.

The wrong tone, they do make the same switch with an orange and red light on it, to tell you what side is depressed, but I was going for the stealthy/OEM look.

SophieSleeps thanks for the rep, you are the mod monster!

Your right it would be much more secure to splice rather than using the male "spade" terminals. I think a lot of people only mod to the point of reversibility, including myself, so I didn't cut anything.

The male terminals are pretty tight in there. I bought some heat shrink tubing today, so I don't think it will go anywhere. It does have a hint of ghetto in it, at least no duct tape was used in this mod.
 

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Threadlocker
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+rep for the effort

but i think people didn't bother doing it because there really is no point. you can jumper the wire at any time, disconnect or connect the plug for "normal drls" etc etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Mark, glad I could point you in the right direction. Hopefully they treated you nice, they are really cool people.

If anybody needs any marine supplies, it is a great place to shop, although West Marine has more selection.
 

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WHERE THE F#$&^ is this loom? Can anyone point it out in a larger pic of an engine bay?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Right against the passenger fender, next to the back of the battery.
 
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