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Thanks for the answer. I dont really have to move it counterclockwise 30 degrees do i? Thats just to make sure everything is ok.

Anyways i did everything right, 60 degrees btdc, put it in tdc first then spun the shaft counterclockwise till it line up with 60 deg btdc just like in the fsm. And took the bolt off. So line is with zeros and o on camshaft are in line with marks on the plate.

But yes somehow once i took the belt off the vvti can move freely both to left and right.
 

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I know i was blabbing on. Anyways this is what i did.

I set the engine to TDC. Which means, the lines on the camshafts line up with marks on the plate behind camshafts, and the TDC line on the crankshaft pulley aligns with zero.
Once I did that I rotated the engine 60 degrees counter-clockwise to the left which made the engine BTDC. Now the "o" on the camshafts are aligned with the marks on the plate behind camshafts, and the BTDC line on the crankshaft pulley aligns with zero.

I did what the FSM told me to do, even though it says never turn the engine counter-clockwise.

This is from the FSM EM-18

"Turn the crankshaft pulley 60° counterclockwise to place
the sub timing mark (60° mark BTDC) on the crankshaft
pulley at the timing mark ”0” position of the No. 1 timing
belt cover"



 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Okay lol whether you used the lines or dots, it doesn't matter. What matters is the position of the crank and gears. What I'm trying to say is there should be no play clockwise whenever the dot/line (whichever you used) is on the timing mark.

Like this. You should be able to move the gear freely both ways, but before you slip the belt on, the gear should be timed at your timing mark, with no play clockwise.
 

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Yes it does that but it also moves clockwise 30 degrees as well.

In the most guides i have seen guys will just rotate the engine clockwise until they get to the first set of marks on the pulley making it 60 degrees BTDC.

But what I did by following the FSM, is turn the engine clockwise to the second set of marks on the crankshaft pulley, making it TDC, and then turning the pulley back or counterclockwise to the first mark, making it 60 degrees BTDC.

This is what is says in the FSM
This is from the FSM EM-18

"Turn the crankshaft pulley 60° counterclockwise to place
the sub timing mark (60° mark BTDC) on the crankshaft
pulley at the timing mark ”0” position of the No. 1 timing
belt cover"
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I wanted to add this clip to this DIY.
This is how it should look when using the dots as your timing marks. The belt should slip on with the vvti gear fully clocked clockwise, and dot on the timing mark.

 

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Good stuff here. Didnt know you had made this. I like
 

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Hello this thread has become very helpful. Thank you! Can you please make your video public. When I click on it, it says that its private. Thanks in advance!!!
 

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What if the dot is not line up. How do you adjust or make it with the mark on cover.
My is one tooth over clockwise position.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Turn it very carefully. Wear thick gloves or with a rag bc the gears are pretty sharp. Be very cautious and patient bc they're hard to turn at first, but once its turns it'll want to go fast. If its the vvti gear, it has free play, so turn it until you feel resistance and then turn it enough till you can get it on point.
 

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Just curious do u have a picture of the 10 mm golden plate u are talking about and does it go a certain way? Also is this plate what the crank position sensor uses as a reference? Thanks
 

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Just curious do u have a picture of the 10 mm golden plate u are talking about and does it go a certain way? Also is this plate what the crank position sensor uses as a reference? Thanks
go to post #7 and #8

Help, please -- messed up timing belt job - Club Lexus Forums

I believe this is the plate that the OP was referring to. as for the orientation. take note of how it is positioned before removing and then put it back on the same way.

but as for needing to remove this plate before the timing gear - that is exactly what the user in the clublexus didnt do - he left the plate on when pulling the timing gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
go to post #7 and #8

Help, please -- messed up timing belt job - Club Lexus Forums

I believe this is the plate that the OP was referring to. as for the orientation. take note of how it is positioned before removing and then put it back on the same way.

but as for needing to remove this plate before the timing gear - that is exactly what the user in the clublexus didnt do - he left the plate on when pulling the timing gear.
Good reference :approve: To add to this, there's an indentation where the plate goes that keeps it from rotating up or down. It should fall in between there when putting it back on. There's no way to screw this up unless you really have no clue what you're doing.

The plate is there to keep the gear/sprocket from coming outwards. The crank position sensor reads the teeth on the gear/sprocket. If any teeth are missing on your gear/sprocket, replace it before proceeding or you'll have to do this job all over again to replace it when your car won't turn on or misfire.
 

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I did my timing belt following the steps but now my is300 no start but im thinking is not timing problem because I have no spark the dots on the timing are line up right ..the gold timing plate still in good shape..no check engine light on any help will be appreciated thanks

Sent from my SM-G900T1 using Tapatalk
 

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Little tip if you're stuck taking the cam gears of yourself, to get to the seals: use a piece of wood to hold an adjustable wrench. This piece just so happened to be from a jenga set. For the other side, I used a large set of bolt cutters, which were the right length and could hold the wrench.

Pain the in ass, but I got it done solo.
 

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Discussion Starter #40


Little tip if you're stuck taking the cam gears of yourself, to get to the seals: use a piece of wood to hold an adjustable wrench. This piece just so happened to be from a jenga set. For the other side, I used a large set of bolt cutters, which were the right length and could hold the wrench.

Pain the in ass, but I got it done solo.
Not bad :approve: I use a big pipe wrench to hold the end of the adjustable wrench.
 
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