Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I replaced the timing belt along with other goodies. Here are some pics and steps in case someone needs a guide to follow, that is up to date. I didn't include draining coolant from radiator/block, removing alternator, radiator, throttle body, valve covers.

*Make sure you bolt everything down to factory specs, or else o rings etc could end up being installed incorrectly. Please be careful, and always be attentive of your next step and the position of your pulleys. Follow FSM, can be found on this site. Do at your own risk and take pics to help you remember position of pulleys, miscellaneous bolts/brackets you must remove to get stuff out of your way.




-Yellow/1st notch at 0, dots on timing cover marks (not lines) make sure everything is lined up

-Used pulley holder to take off crank bolt. It took a couple of big tugs to break it loose but it wasn't as hard as I expected w/ 3ft bars for leverage. (Used the 6ft, 2 piece pipe from my jack)
*Use a 6 point 22mm socket. I broke a 12 point on my first attempt and it stripped the crank bolt a bit. I ended up getting a free crank bolt that was in perfect condition lol

-Pulled crank pulley
-Remove water pump pulley. I held it with one hand&shop rag and unbolted it with the other
-Remove water bypass/outlet

3 o-rings, you pull that out of there with some force

-Remove 2 nuts on water inlet (behind headers, refer to next pic top left)
-Remove thermostat housing

-Remove PS bracket

-Remove drive belt tensioner (Position of vvti gear matches the position after install)

-Remove timing covers
-Remove timing belt tensioner
-Remove timing belt guide and belt


-Pulled crank timing gear with M6X1.0 metric screws, bought at home depot. The ones that came with my puller didn't fit. (Make sure you remove the 10mm, gold timing gear plate before pulling the gear. You will end up bending the plate or breaking a tooth on the gear. The dot on the block should be exactly to the right of the first tooth before removal, refer to tensioner bearing picture)

-Removed water pump, do this first to keep your new crank seal clean from coolant
-Replace crank seal (has to be shiny clean before install)

-Remove cam gear by holding cam with adj wrench
-vvti cam gear has 14mm hex bit cap with a seal and a 10mm inside. Before removal you want to make sure vvti is set right according to the manual. I followed the FSM.
*Make sure they stay on the dots before removal.
-Remove OCV, OCV filter (2 washers)


-Remove rear timing cover (metal one)
-Removed cam bearing caps and seals. Exhaust side has (2) 10mm, intake has (2) 10mm and 2 allen bolts in the back, under the harness. Use flat head and tabs to get them loose from silicone.

-Install cam seals, make sure they're seated all the way back
-Put FIPG on the caps
-Torque them down



-FIPG on the outsides, back of the caps according to FSM (red lines)



-Install water pump
-Install thermostat (line up jiggle valve with indentation)
-Install water bypass (put a bit of coolant on the o rings before installing)
-Install rear timing cover
-Install cam gears (vvti gear has a washer seal inside the hex cap)
-Install OCV, and filter/washers
-Install tensioner bearing (loctite)
-Install crank timing gear
I realized there was a tooth missing, so it came back off and I got another one for $35+a free crank bolt


-Install 10mm golden timing gear plate
-Slip the belt on
-Install tensioner and remove grenade pin
-Check that all timing marks are good to go (if you kept the tension on the belt while installing it, it should clear out with no problem, tensioner will not affect the position of any gear doing it this way)
-Screw crank bolt in and rotate engine twice and check that timing marks clear out
-Install timing belt guide
-Install timing cover
-Install crank pulley
-Check timing marks again with crank pulley/timing cover installed
-Install crank bolt (loctite)
-Drive belt tensioner (loctite)
-Reinstall everything else back

I cleaned the valve covers, and rear timing cover with some free purple power from auto zone


New valve cover gaskets

The old belt was in very good shape with 167XXX on the clock.

Its so smooth now, I will keep a close eye on it for a couple of days looking for leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
thank you for the DIY.
what tool did you use to remove the crank seal?

i know there are over the counter hooks/tools - just curious want you used and how well it worked.

always seems like those hook ones have a possibly of marring something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I made a small hole on the seal with a flathead and then pulled it with the seal puller (red screwdriver looking thing in the 2nd pic). It came off real clean without damaging the inside .

I was afraid of scratching the inside trying to get the seal puller inside the edge, so I made a small cut to get the hook in there. When putting a new seal back in, make sure the spring inside the seal doesnt come off. I ended up cutting the bottom side of a plastic cup that had the same diameter as the seal to pound it in there evenly. Lol worked real well actually
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Wow what a great write up! I'll be doing this exactly next weekend.

For the cam and crank seals, did you ever apply FIPG to any part of the seals itself (outer diameter)? I heard some people apply a very light coating go ensure a good seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Wow what a great write up! I'll be doing this exactly next weekend.

For the cam and crank seals, did you ever apply FIPG to any part of the seals itself (outer diameter)? I heard some people apply a very light coating go ensure a good seal.
Good luck! If you have any questions lmk

Nah no FIPG on the cam or crank seals. Make sure the spring on the inside of the seals doesn't come out when installing them. For whatever reason, the spring seems to want to come out. Tap them evenly with a big socket or whatever for the cam seals. For the crank seal I cut the bottom of a plastic cup that had the same diameter and it worked perfectly. It would've been a nightmare without it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Good luck! If you have any questions lmk

Nah no FIPG on the cam or crank seals. Make sure the spring on the inside of the seals doesn't come out when installing them. For whatever reason, the spring seems to want to come out. Tap them evenly with a big socket or whatever for the cam seals. For the crank seal I cut the bottom of a plastic cup that had the same diameter and it worked perfectly. It would've been a nightmare without it.
Okay cool, thanks! You used OEM/Toyota seals I'm guessing? I ordered some Felpro but changed my mind about it.

Amongst the tools I've rented from Autozone/Advance, this cam/crank seal one seems to be the best - http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/camshaft-bearing-installation-tool/oem-camshaft-and-crankshaft-seal-tool-kit/544799_0_0/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Okay cool, thanks! You used OEM/Toyota seals I'm guessing? I ordered some Felpro but changed my mind about it.

Amongst the tools I've rented from Autozone/Advance, this cam/crank seal one seems to be the best - http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/camshaft-bearing-installation-tool/oem-camshaft-and-crankshaft-seal-tool-kit/544799_0_0/
Yeah, all OEM. I had timken seals, but also changed my mind lol I didn't want to come back and redo it bc I cheaped out.

Nice! Looks like you'll be better prepared than I was :lol: Does that help remove the seal as well or does it only help install?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Yeah, all OEM. I had timken seals, but also changed my mind lol I didn't want to come back and redo it bc I cheaped out.

Nice! Looks like you'll be better prepared than I was :lol: Does that help remove the seal as well or does it only help install?
Haha those were my same exact thoughts.

And yeah, it has attachments to help remove and install the new seals. The removal consists of using the two claws the reach behind the seal and pull it out with the puller. To install the new seal you just pair up the right size fittings onto your bolt and crank the seal in and it's all done evenly. You could opt to use the cheaper claw tool to remove and then use a PVC pipe and hammer to get it back on. But I figured I would rather use this cool tool instead :cool:.

I'm also replacing the VVTi seals - did you do this too? They tend to leak after 150k :(.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Haha those were my same exact thoughts.

And yeah, it has attachments to help remove and install the new seals. The removal consists of using the two claws the reach behind the seal and pull it out with the puller. To install the new seal you just pair up the right size fittings onto your bolt and crank the seal in and it's all done evenly. You could opt to use the cheaper claw tool to remove and then use a PVC pipe and hammer to get it back on. But I figured I would rather use this cool tool instead :cool:.

I'm also replacing the VVTi seals - did you do this too? They tend to leak after 150k :(.
Yeah, I'm sure that's the safest/easiest way. I will have to try that next time lol

You mean the o-ring inside the vvti gear?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Yeah, I'm sure that's the safest/easiest way. I will have to try that next time lol

You mean the o-ring inside the vvti gear?
Yeah the o-ring in the gear itself and then isn't there a seal (washer) on one of the hex head bolts that go into the gear? I bought the seal kit off of driftmotion.com and it included both seals :confused:.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yeah the o-ring in the gear itself and then isn't there a seal (washer) on one of the hex head bolts that go into the gear? I bought the seal kit off of driftmotion.com and it included both seals :confused:.
Yeah those 2 are the ones you need. I didn't want to mess with the o ring inside the gear, so I just spent $160 on a new gear from a lexus dealer on ebay, and also bought the washer seal from my local dealer.

I think the biggest problem I ran into was finding the screws to pull the timing gear. The screws that came with my puller didn't fit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Yeah those 2 are the ones you need. I didn't want to mess with the o ring inside the gear, so I just spent $160 on a new gear from a lexus dealer on ebay, and also bought the washer seal from my local dealer.

I think the biggest problem I ran into was finding the screws to pull the timing gear. The screws that came with my puller didn't fit
Oh yeah good point! What was the specs on the bolts that you ended up using? I should check my Dorman puller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Oh yeah good point! What was the specs on the bolts that you ended up using? I should check my Dorman puller.
If I remember correctly, they were M6X1.0 metric screws. I found them at home depot. It was a big set back bc I had to drop everything to go out and find them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
If I remember correctly, they were M6X1.0 metric screws. I found them at home depot. It was a big set back bc I had to drop everything to go out and find them.
Alright cool thanks! Are they the same for the crank sprocket as well? I'm assuming so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Alright cool thanks! Are they the same for the crank sprocket as well? I'm assuming so.
Yeah the sprocket/timing gear is the one I'm referring to.

Here you can see me pulling it with the M6X1.0 metric screws.

The harmonic balancer came off with the screws provided with the puller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Yeah the sprocket/timing gear is the one I'm referring to.

Here you can see me pulling it with the M6X1.0 metric screws.

The harmonic balancer came off with the screws provided with the puller.
Ah okay, got it! A little confusion on my end lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Its all good! Are you doing just the seals or complete maintenance?

Last timing belt change for me was done at 121k by previous owner and now I'm at 172k and having noise coming from what seems to be the timing area (sounds like one of the tensioners for the timing is going bad). So I'm gonna be doing the following:

Timing belt
Timing Tensioner and Pulley
Water pump (and seals/gaskets)
Thermostat
PCV
Valve cover gaskets
Harmonic balancer
Serpentine belt
Serpentine belt tensioner pulley
Crank and cam seals
VVTi gear gasket
Valve adjustment/shimming if needed
Upper and lower radiator hoses
Power steering flush with inline filter
Trans drain/flush (and possible inline filter too)
Clean throttle body, MAF, and K&N filter

This car is gonna last me another 100k at least, so I'm gonna make sure of it lol. All stuff that will probably fail and I only want to do this job once and not have to dive back in because one thing I didn't do failed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
I am about to change my cam seals. Do i need to remove the OCV and OCV filter, I am not planning on removing the exhaust and intake gaskets as I did them last year?

Also my cams are aligned properly, dots are aligned as they should be in the fsm. My VVTI pulley can move freely 30 degrees to the left (counterclockwise) but I can also move it freely to the right (clockwise) about 30 degrees. Is this a problem? Everything is aligned properly before i took the belt off. 60 Degrees BTDC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,665 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I am about to change my cam seals. Do i need to remove the OCV and OCV filter, I am not planning on removing the exhaust and intake gaskets as I did them last year?

Also my cams are aligned properly, dots are aligned as they should be in the fsm. My VVTI pulley can move freely 30 degrees to the left (counterclockwise) but I can also move it freely to the right (clockwise) about 30 degrees. Is this a problem? Everything is aligned properly before i took the belt off. 60 Degrees BTDC
No, you don't need to remove any of those things to replace the cam seals. As long as you have a tool to pull/push the seals out/in you should be good.

Hmmm..here's how it works..if the vvti gear is on the timing mark and the dot, you should be able to move it freely 30 degrees counterclockwise, and then you have to move it back, freely, 30 degrees clockwise until the dot aligns with the timing mark again. Once the dot is back on the timing mark there should be resistance instead of free play. After you've done this, if the vvti gear still has play clockwise then its not right. The engine will spin clockwise, so any slack might be dangerous in terms of timing.
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top