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^^^so stock headers and Apexi ws2 would be ok then to run with this cam gear setting????...lol...I am just not the sold to the risks of CEL's with headers...
 

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Might be a dumb question, but how did you rotate the motor back 60 degress before TDC? Just bump the switch until you got the marks where you wanted them or a socket on the crankshaft?
 

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You will not get 5-7 hp by just adding a cam gear but should yield a few hp and a few ft/lbs of tq if it is tuned. At 0 degrees, it does nothing. Usually tuners will move a degree or a half degree at a time to see which one makes the most power. You can also run a cam gear on a stock IS300 as leonard_is300 said. For no CEL w/ a header, just install an o2 simulator.
 

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^ exactly. I was never able to see what JUST the cam gear did as I added the header and SAFCII at the same time and never had a baseline. My most power was made at -6 degrees (retarded). The difference from -4 to -6 degrees was maybe a 1/2 hp or 1 hp I don't remember exactly. It was a little over 200 rwhp on a mustang dyno w/ PLP-SFI Intake, Greddy Evo II cat-back exhaust, toyomoto header, titan exhaust cam gear to -6 degrees, safcII tuned. I never really noticed a difference in power with each individual mod because I got used to them but as a whole, it was definitely a fun car with all the collective mods.
 

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great info guys...I am still debating whether to go the headers with cam gear and safcII combo or just save money and go boost straight to save time and possible headaches...but this info will definitely help out.
 

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Boost = headaches. Get ready for them if you're going boost. That is normal when going forced induction on any car that doesn't come that way from the factory.
 

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Lol I read the first sentence and I got completely confused, something I would prolly never attempt, but it looked interesting:bigSmile: . +rep for you! :cool:
 

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Great write up. Just to add my 2 cents, if you don't have someone to hold the belt in place for you, you can put a clamp on the lip of the cam to hold the belt in place.( make sure to protect the belt from potential damage from the clamp.)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
yes you can use a little clamp if you need too. you can get away with using a vise-grip to hold the belt for you. you just dont need to clamp the vise-grip on there, just tight enough to hold the belt in place.
 

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I have a question about this install. After you align the cam gears paint to the top of the timing cover, then set the crankshaft's sub timing groove to 0, do you leave the car like this after you put everything back together and crank it up with the crankshaft sub timing groove at zero? If not what needs to be done?
 

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I did alot of reading and with our motors -4 yeilds the best results with an intake and exhaust. i have the Brian crower 264 cams and valve train, full exhaust, and intake i have the cam gear set to -4 and im all on the stock tune. slapping this cam gear on and setting it to -4 will be fine on stock tune but if your wanting to get the most out of your NA car and have an SAFC or something like that then a tune would not hurt at all!

A stock IS300 can have a cam gear set to -4 without messing anything up.

when you mean valve train upgrade, what did you change, was it the springs, valves them selves or both :rolleyes:
 

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I have a question about this install. After you align the cam gears paint to the top of the timing cover, then set the crankshaft's sub timing groove to 0, do you leave the car like this after you put everything back together and crank it up with the crankshaft sub timing groove at zero? If not what needs to be done?

So nobody knows the answer to this?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I have a question about this install. After you align the cam gears paint to the top of the timing cover, then set the crankshaft's sub timing groove to 0, do you leave the car like this after you put everything back together and crank it up with the crankshaft sub timing groove at zero? If not what needs to be done?

So nobody knows the answer to this?
Hmm I'll try to answer this as best as I can for you. When your setting the timing to the marks that are already on your car you paint them with anything thats easy to see. The cam gears have 2 timing marks and so does the crank pully. you need to align everything so that is 20 degrees Before Top Dead Center. If i am wrong on that please someone correct me. There will be a line on the crank pully that will line up to 0 degrees and you use that as your timing mark. to make sure things are at the right timing position use the DOT's on the cam gears and then check the crank shaft. there will be a line on the crank shaft that will line up with 0 on the timing belt cover that will be your timing mark that you need to use.

And yes when i say valvetrain upgrand i mean springs, retainers, and valves. if i wanted i could raise my rev limit to 7300 rpm but i dont see feel the need to do that.
 

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Hmm I'll try to answer this as best as I can for you. When your setting the timing to the marks that are already on your car you paint them with anything thats easy to see. The cam gears have 2 timing marks and so does the crank pully. you need to align everything so that is 20 degrees Before Top Dead Center. If i am wrong on that please someone correct me. There will be a line on the crank pully that will line up to 0 degrees and you use that as your timing mark. to make sure things are at the right timing position use the DOT's on the cam gears and then check the crank shaft. there will be a line on the crank shaft that will line up with 0 on the timing belt cover that will be your timing mark that you need to use.

And yes when i say valvetrain upgrand i mean springs, retainers, and valves. if i wanted i could raise my rev limit to 7300 rpm but i dont see feel the need to do that.

did you have to do any machine work to the stock head for thoughs BC valves to work :) im just asking because im getting the BC stage 2 cames and decides if i should get the BC springs and valves
 

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Discussion Starter #40
What I'm asking is will I tear up my engine if I crank it up at 20 degrees before tdc?
well your engine is not timed right yes you will wreck stuff, we have interferance engines so yes it will tear stuff up if its not done right.

and as for valves no you do not need any machine work if you get the standard size valves. but when i had my head off i had the valves, springs and retainers installed at a machine shop just incase it needed anything. i didnt need anything but i did that just incase tho.
 
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