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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I'm not on board with the machine flushing. They will force the fluid backwards through the trans and that can also cause problems. This way the fluid will be expelled from the torque converter by the transmissions pump and remove more of the old fluid rather than diluting the old fluid with new. I have 106,000 miles and it is not shifting well. So I may need a new tranny anyway. I'll watch how much it pumps out and stop the motor each time it puts out 2qts. Refill and do it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Update

Okay the job is done. It was very easy. Drive around for 10 minutes to warm the fluid and losen the sediment in the system. Drop the splash guard under the engine, disconnect the driver's side hose from the transmission (this is the return line or "in" line - going back into trans) and connect it to a 3' or longer length of 3/8 hose. Put the end of the hose in a bucket or jug as the video shows. Drain and refill the transmission with fresh fluid (about 2qts). But this time, over fill the trans with 1qt of fluid (3qts). Leave the funnel in the dip-stick tube cause you'll need to refill periodically. Now what was an unknown to me was just how fast the transmission would pump out the fluid. Its roughly 7 to 10 seconds per quart. Slow enough for you to push out 2 qts, stop the engine and refill and begin again. I had an empty 5qt motor oil jug from the previous oil change, so I use it to monitor the oil output. When 2qts filled the jug I shut it down and refilled the transmission. The pan always had at least 1qt+ to pull from so it never went dry. Continue this until the ejected fluid is clean. Simply make sure you replace the same quantity of fluid you removed with new fluid. Use the dipstick for the exact level once you are done. That's it. It now has new fluid even in the torque converter. I can't believe how easy it was.
:approve:

**Okay I forgot something. Since I used the return line to the transmission instead of the supply line as he mentions, I did not blow any air through the lines. Much easier this way. Plus it also purges the radiator cooler as well. So if you don't have an air compressor, you really don't need one.

Supplies:
10 quarts of Toyota type T-IV ATF (you can always return what you don't use)
3+ foot of 3/8"ID hose. (Clear vinyl hose is best to monitor fluid color)
Funnel to refill transmission


Edit: Here is the results; the dark fluid is what I drained from the trans pan. (Even my Halogen shop light can't penetrate the old oil) The pink fluid is what was left in the drain hose as it purged the last of the old trans fluid. :shocked: Just like new. Total cost: 9qts of Toyota T-IV fluid at $4.25ea = $40 with tax. Also, just to follow up with a previous post. The transmission is now shifting better with all new fluid.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
in theory this will work, but if one thing goes wrong it could be a very expensive way to try to save money on maintenance.....I wouldn't do it, the labor on a trans flush is all of 95 bucks....
Ryan
Ryan,

What I keep reading is that Lexus charges more than $95 and more often than not, an independant repair shop will use an ATF other than Toyota ATF which will cause problems.
 

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Ryan,

What I keep reading is that Lexus charges more than $95 and more often than not, an independant repair shop will use an ATF other than Toyota ATF which will cause problems.
true, tranny flushes usually is 100+, i heard this method only works on auto tranny since manual tranny dont run the oil line to the radiator.
 

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cant believe ppl still use this method lol it works tho been doing this for awhile. post up pics of which supply or return line you used to help people out cause some of the people on here dont know where the line is. ++rep buddy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
post up pics of which supply or return line you used to help people out cause some of the people on here dont know where the line is. ++rep buddy
Too late for pictures without taking off the splash cover again. But remember the driver's side hose is the return to the transmission. Or for those who get turned around when upside down, it's the longer hose that is the return line. (The short hose is the radiator supply line)

Here's a pic from another thread. The longer hose is the exit from the radiator. Disconnect the long hose from the radiator and attach your drain hose to the radiator nub/port/exit.

 

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I got your PM and this is interesting. Infact its a tech secret where we work because as the OP stated a machine flush can blow seals. This does work well but you really need o pay attention. Having two people helps. Also doing it when the car is warmed up helps get more out. If you do this method its a great opportunity to add an in-line filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
For those who are interested in an actual transmission filter, I had previously installed (still in place) a Magnefine filter in the return line. This filter has a paper element, safety bypass valve and a strong magnet to capture anything that can recycle in the fluid and chew up the clutches and valves. The filter has 3/8" ports and you simply cut out a section of hose and clamp it on. These are good for 30,000 miles and if they clog quickly the fluid will bypass the filter internally so no damage will occur to the transmission. The trans has only a screen to stop large debris, that's why the filter is non-replaceable. Why Toyota does not have a real filter beats me but a $16 filter will save thousands $$ down the road. Anyone can install this if you have a razor or tin snips.

Birds-eye view belts at the top and radiator below



You can drain and fill every 15,000 miles, but if you have crud in the fluid, it will continue flow through the transmission until the next time you drain and fill.

Stay tuned: In a short while I'll remove this filter and see what it caught. I need to order a new one first. I bought the car with 96,000 miles and it had only one (2Qt) drain and fill at 60,000. I installed the filter at 100,000 miles and now I'll open her up and see what it caught in the last 6,000 miles. As dirty a the old fluid was, I can only imagine.
 

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Ryan,

What I keep reading is that Lexus charges more than $95 and more often than not, an independant repair shop will use an ATF other than Toyota ATF which will cause problems.


Very true lexus charges way more than $95. My IS has over 125K. purchased with 45K and every 15-20K i flush the tranny with universal atf and have never had any issues so far.
 

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I've just ordered it yesterday from the same seller and same deal. But people say they can get it for less than 5 bucks per Qt. While that ebay deal costs $6.40 per Qt. I should have checked the nearest toyota dealer before I bought them from ebay. I think you should check local toyota dealer
 

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true, tranny flushes usually is 100+, i heard this method only works on auto tranny since manual tranny dont run the oil line to the radiator.
Uh or its because manual transmissions dont have an oil pump or any internal valves and shit. You just drain and refill. Same thing with the rear differential.
 

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Is this what you have been using ?

Transtar Industries M010CB Automatic Transmission Filter

what about this one ?

Wix 58964 In-Line Transmission Filter, 5/16 connections
 

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When i searched the Transtar Industries M010CB Automatic Transmission Filter came up as the Magnafine

Where do you buy yours from ?? part number ?

Thanks
 
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