Please do! The only thing I've noticed is that where I positioned it the hose gets pinched by the sway bar end link at full lock. We'll see how it holds up long term but an improvement could probably be made there.
Been a long time since I've updated this thread. My wife and I just had our second child so track days and updates will probably slow some, but I have been able to get out to the garage and do a few things.
In fact, as part of that I've tried to make the car a tiny bit more street friendly so I can take our 2 year old to daycare in the morning. Part of that was making the car a little quieter. I originally had the Manzo exhaust which is pretty quiet and very nice sounding. The tip was too big and because the DNA header didn't align well it burned my bumper pretty badly after all the track work. Decided to pull the trigger on a Tanabe Medallion Touring.....man certainly a big quality difference from the Manzo.....different sounding and overall a better fit for my needs now I think.
So I was also getting this horrid screeching noise when turning on the A/C this summer. I just replaced the A/C so pretty much knew it couldn't be that. Decided to replace the belt tensioner thinking that could solve it. Didn't realize the only way to get the manual tensioner (with the dampener) is to go OEM for a total of like $400....yeah that's not going to happen. Dropped $115 on the AC Delco automatic unit and a new belt. The sound persisted. Finally found a thread here that mentioned it is probably the crank pulley failing with symptoms very similar to mine. That morning I was ripping redline runs to work and that afternoon I pulled the belt and the crank pulley fell off in my hand :\
Found an OEM unit for cheap-ish on ebay and replaced it. So much better now! Also now every pulley is changed from original except maybe the alternator. Well I do drive this sucker hard that's for sure.
Sometimes can't help but turn around at work and grab a picture.
Lastly I am purchasing a Figs/PPE header used on facebook. Really looking forward to solving all of my exhaust issues even if it is requiring spending a bunch more money than I had originally wanted.
Nice updates, and congrats on the kid and still having time for the car. I also have the Manzo exhaust, I used exhaust flanges to space it out so it wouldn't melt the bumper. The new Tanabe is quieter? I definitely don't want that, but I am still open to options. Lucky catch about the pulley there! Yikes
I'm looking through this thread for the first time and its great. I have a quick question about one of your original posts.
I'm looking at getting the exact same rennform wheels and you said they were slightly poke with the +35 offset. When you rolled your fenders did that help make it a bit more flush? would you be able to snap a picture of the wheel fitment for me when you get the chance?
@trowe2 Sorry I don't check back here as often as I should. Here's the only pic I could find sitting here on my computer. This was back before rolling the fenders and also at stock ride height/camber. Once I lowered the car I also gained some camber too, so after being lowered I was still only able to get about -2 degrees of camber. Now with the roll/pull and camber it's tucked nicely in the fender.
These forums are unfortunately seeming more and more dead each month. I figured I'd update what small car projects I've had over the last year. Covid, kids, work have definitely slowed them down, but still working through some things.
Earlier this year, bought a Fidanza flywheel and Exedy clutch kit. Without dropping the engine and subframe any the clearance to back the transmission out and down is awful. Getting to the top bolts and removing the starter wasn't bad at all compared to some other cars I've worked on. After the install the clutch grabs super high and I'm not sure why. Overall the flywheel feels good, but I probably should have gone for a bit beefier pressure plate as it still feels fairly 'soft' like the OE clutch, but drivability/street driving is good.
Used the old loaf of bread trick to press out the pilot bearing. Still can't believe this works so well.
Then the mods slowed even more as I acquired a replacement for my 'daily driver' 4Runner.
I worried that having something so new and significantly faster than the IS300 would make me not want to drive it, but actually it still feels so different that I really enjoy driving the Lexus still. The Golf R is fun as well, and I've been doing some small mods, but really trying to keep it mostly stock.
I did find some time to give the Lexus a mild detail. It still needs some deep paint correction at some point.
Then more recently I decided to try and go through the complete rear suspension and put poly bushings everywhere. I always forget what a pain pressing out bushings is. Lots of torching and cursing. I also tried to tap each arm with a grease zerk and paint them with some POR-15 just to spruce things up. Also went with the Figs rear toe arms, spherical hub bushing, and lockout plates. Trying to investigate a popping noise I have in the rear left. I think it may be the figs lockout plates not seating completely and popping in and out of position under load. Fix TBD.
Lastly, after getting the car to pass inspection I was swapping back to my FIGS/PPE long tube header and got hamfisted with the manifold nuts and completely stripped the stud out of the head :O.
Instead of doing a helicoil, decided to go all out and do a TimeSert fix. Expensive kit, but man is that thing well done and well executed.
Lastly I'm trying to track down an insanely annoying rattle with the PPE Headers. It sounds like a heatshield, the odd thing is it doesn't happen with any other header combo. I've tried a bunch of things and am finally wondering if the long tubes themselves could be rattling under certain rpms/frequencies. Here's an incredibly dark video of the noise. The worst part is, it doesn't happen at idle so it's very hard to diagnose by myself.
Hahaha. So basically you stuff bread into the cavity behind the bearing and keep stuffing and stuffing until its full. Then take a socket that matches the hole of the bearing exactly and tap on it with a hammer. You will like likely need to stuff some more. Eventually the bread will start to push the bearing out from the inside and pop out it comes. Clean out the bread and you are done.
Some people apparently use grease as well but honestly bread works better and cleans up easier. I thought it was a joke the first time someone told me. Used it 3 times now.