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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks man! I'm happy with it so far. There still seems to be a lot of slack and sluggishness in the drivetrain. I think it's likely a combination of the heavy stock flywheel and worn out diff mounts leading to a lot of unwanted 'softness' in the drivetrain.

I should have mentioned too that this isn't my first 2JZ related project. A group of guys and I built and raced this SC300 for a few years.

As we bought it.


Doing its thing.


Post race impound.


Color scheme before we sold it.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Had a great weekend at VIR. A day before the event I had the car corner balanced, aligned, and when I got it home installed figs adjustable endlinks all around.

First day at VIR was on Full course and the car did pretty well. Unfortunately I dealt with pretty significant brake shudder all weekend from pad deposits on these old rotors. A lesson to have spare new rotors ready in the future. Live and learn. Also, after about 4 years of doing this, had my first session in the rain so that was a lot of fun. Thanks to the FA coilovers the car was amazingly balanced on track. On the stock suspension I had constant push and understeer and couldn't get the car to rotate. Now, I just turn the wheel and the car responds. I started out with all sides at 18 clicks from soft, but the car was almost a little too loose and so I moved the rears down to 4 clicks and that seemed to feel just about right (or maybe it was just placebo).

The current mod list is as follows:
- DNA Motoring Header
- HPS Intake
- Chopped stock exhaust with turn down (stock midpipe)
- RB 4045 Front BBK w/ DTC-30 pads
- 17x8+35 Konig Rennform Wheels with 225 Kumho V720 Rear and 225 Hankook RS-4 Front
- Fortune Auto 500 Coilover w/ 14k F and 12k R
- Figs Adjustable Endlinks front and rear
- Autopower Roll Bar
- OMP WRC-XL Seats w/ Planted Brackets






 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thanks man! I definitely did consider the Swift springs when I ordered the coilovers in the first place. The main reason I didn't go with them was that it seems like Fortune Auto charges exactly what the springs can be bought for retail. And my thinking was to get the FA springs and then decide what I thought about the stiffness and if I wanted I could go +/- 2k and get the swift springs in place of them. So far I've been very happy with the basic FA springs and it's hard to imagine them being better, but I'm sure they are.
 

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Mr. Roo
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looks like you've got the cam gear set to about the 3rd tick to the left... that's -3degrees right? I have the same gear in mine, but I don't really know how to adjust it. Do you have to remove like the whole front of the car/engine to get to all of the bolts at once?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks guys.

looks like you've got the cam gear set to about the 3rd tick to the left... that's -3degrees right? I have the same gear in mine, but I don't really know how to adjust it. Do you have to remove like the whole front of the car/engine to get to all of the bolts at once?
Yeah, I was shooting for between -3 and -4 based on everyone else's thread. At least until I'm able to dyno it and try some different settings.

If you're saying you already have it installed and just want to adjust it, here's how:
1) Remove the 4 5mm hex bolts from the top engine cover. This will reveal the timing belt.
2) Loosen, but do not remove all 5 of the cam adjustment bolts.
3) Use a 17mm wrench to rotate the large bolt holding the cam on. This will allow you to shift it to the desired setting.
4) I used a little bit of loctite blue on each nut and then torqued them to the specified 40 INCH/lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Ah yes true. I actually found the right most bolt of that middle cover to be a huge pain. The alternative is to put a 22mm Socket on the crank bolt and turn the engine clockwise by hand to get the others. I found it easiest to do from below which means removing the undertray. That's the route I would go.
 

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Does retarding the ignition -3 to -4 degrees actually do anything on a NA engine? What's that do to the exhaust timing exactly?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
It's been a while since I've posted an update. I need to get out there and take some pictures because there have been improvements made to the car.

As mentioned in another thread I had the A/C compressor die on me. So I replaced that and the condensor. In doing so I really beat up my stock radiator so I figured it was a perfect time to upgrade to a mishimoto radiator. That install went well and seems to be cooling well.

I also installed front and rear Hotchkis sway bars.

Lastly I was tired of dealing with exhaust leaks at the DNA header to stock y-pipe junction so I bought the Megan racing mid pipe. It seems to be sealing well but I'd really like to add back a high flow cat at some point.

For the track day last weekend I tried out Raybestos ST-43 pads up front and Carbotech XP10's in the rear. Paired that with Hankook RS4 tires in the rear and RE71R's in the front. The car did great, no complaints at all.


Oh yeah and also one of my lifelong dreams has come true. A lift in the garage. Soooo nice not rolling around on the ground.





 

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Discussion Starter #55
Couple of winter break updates. Got a few days over the Chirstmas season to work on things.

Bought this Scion FRS Diff on ebay. Waited for an ebay coupon to come up and snagged this guy for $205 shipped, which I think is a steal. While swapping it I also replaced the rear differential bushings in the subframe. Hit them on the front side with an air chisel until I could to the lip in the back and start prying them out. Overall as far as bushings go it wasn't bad. I love the new ratios, the car feels significantly faster and I don't do enough highway driving for it to bother me on the cruising side. Also I'm not sure if this is the diff, or the bushings, or both but the car feels like it wants to slide and wheel hop around tight corners even more than before. Again, not really sure what that is.









My second winter update I don't really have any good pictures of. I bought an Apexi SAFCII off ebay to install. For the wiring I bought a 7 wire trailer hitch wire loom and added one other bare wire along with it through the firewall above the clutch. Once I got it wire up the car through an immediate CEL and went into a limp mode of sorts. I broke out the multimeter and went to work, it took some time but finally I figured out that the wiring in one of the diagrams I was basing my work off of was wrong. They had the wires for the white and yellow swapped so the car thought the MAF was disconnected. In fact a word of warning to anyone installing one the wiring in the apexi manual is wrong too! I've listed where it is right and wrong below. Now I just need to go get it tuned somewhere.







 

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Discussion Starter #56
My last update is something that I'm still working on. I decided to build a ghetto DIY Figs-inspired diffuser. After working on it for a week I'd recommend for anyone else to just buy the figs diffuser unless you just really like building things like I do. Mine won't look half as good or function half as well, but I'm at least trying. My first mistake was ordering slightly thicker aluminum than I should have. I went with 0.09" aluminum sheet. It's making things a bit tougher to work with than it should be, but at least it will be sturdy.

Step 1 was to cut the basic shape. Easy enough.


Step 2 was to make the bend at the rear of the car. This is where things got interesting. I don't have an aluminum brake so I clamped two pieces of angled steel, weighed the back down with rotors, and went to town with a torch and a wood clamp for leverage. It turned out with more of a curve where I wanted a straight angle bend, but it at least bent.





Step 3, the fins. I tried being cool like Mike and cutting the fins from one piece and bending the attachment points from that piece, but with just a jigsaw and super thick aluminum it pretty much failed. So instead I cut the fins and then bent and attached brackets for each of them. It doesn't look pretty and adds weight and drag, but it should at least hold together.











The last few parts are building the side flaps and the cleaning up the whole thing and painting it black.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Finished it up over the weekend. I'll echo what I said earlier that this was fun to build but doesn't look nearly as nice as the Figs product nor does it probably work as well.

I ended up mounting the side plates slightly differently than the figs design that required me drilling a couple of holes.

Also, RIP my bumper cutout. The manzo exhaust fit great, but the DNA header through everything off and I've just been letting it melt unfortunately. It's at least reached a steady state.



 

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nice! if you ever take that diff back out, i recommend putting new pinion bushings in for piece of mind. since this is a track car, it likely needs it more than ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Thanks guys. Yeah I probably should have done the pinion bushings too, but trying to keep it on somewhat of a budget too.....track car and budget do not go together well.

And yeah I made the Manzo even worse because I thought I could chop off the outer part and have a skinnier tip, but it just left the wide tip and further back than before. So for now until I figure out a better solution I won't try to clean it up too much.

Out of curiosity, how did you extend your exhaust? Did you put an extra piece of pipe in or something?
 
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