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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I meant to share how I mounted my bike rack with the forum, and never did, so here you go.

Here's what the finished product looks like.


These plates I made are mounted under the weather stripping on the roof, using the machine screws into existing nutcerts. I've been told these nutcerts are only on the sportcross, but I've never checked a sedan, they're where the factory gita rack would mount.


I painted the mounts so they don't rust before the final assembly, I also cleaned the gutter and siliconed the mounts so it wouldn't leak. This pic gives you an idea where they go though.


Have to drill a few holes in the strip for bolts to go through.


Then the "landing pad" mounts.


And that's what the rest of the bike rack mounts to.


The landing pads never come off of my car, so this is what it looks like when I don't have the rack on. I can take it off or put it on alone in about 30 seconds though.


The downside compared to the q-clips is that it required permanent modification, the holes in the plastic strip.

The upside is that it sits lower to the roof, comes on and off in seconds, and doesn't have the ugly hooks into the doors.

I should've taken better pictures when I did it, but this is what I have. I'd love to hear your feedback, and if there's interest in replicating what I did, I can help with some of the measurements of the mounting plates, tell you what landing pads I used, etc.

One more pic, in use.
 

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Very nice! Looks simple enough for me to try to attempt this summer, lol.
 

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nice, well done. Paint the landling pads to match your car, you wouldn't even know they are there when the racks are off.
 

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looks good. if you don't need all the width of the bar, I would recommend trimming the length of the bar down. that would make it even cleaner than it already is. nice work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nice, well done. Paint the landling pads to match your car, you wouldn't even know they are there when the racks are off.
You know, I never even thought about that, not a bad idea.

looks good. if you don't need all the width of the bar, I would recommend trimming the length of the bar down. that would make it even cleaner than it already is. nice work.
I've been meaning to trim the bars, but I haven't gotten around to it. The extra length did give me a great handle for pushing the car in and out of the garage last time the trans was out though :p.
 

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I've been meaning to trim the bars, but I haven't gotten around to it. The extra length did give me a great handle for pushing the car in and out of the garage last time the trans was out though :p.
oh snap! I just read your sig! badass! I always wanted to have a 400+ hp audi wagon, but they just aren't reliable enough for me.
 

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Nicely done Berk!
 

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I am liking the work here. I am curious, any reason to choose to use mid body single screw mounting point. I am considering a similar modification, but may choose to use the rear most mount with the two screws. Another idea which may be a bit too far out there. Attach a track from the forward most holes to the rear. Anyone ever considered this idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I've had a few people ask me for more details about the install. Sadly I've lost my notes that had the exact measurements, but I'll share what information I can and hopefully when someone replicates it, they can share the measurements they find work.

Tools necessary are a drill (drill press preferably) with various bits including a countersink bit, a hack saw, band saw or something to cut flat iron, an m6x1.0 tap, a 10mm wrench and various screwdrivers and allen wrenches.

First of all, the pieces I used from yakima. I used these landing pads, which work with their control towers. Those landing pads have the smallest base, which I found fit well into the rail space available. I bought 48" crossbars, but even those are a little long, you can buy any of them and cut them down to size. All lengths are the same price from yakima. Then you can put whatever attachments you want on there.

Everything else I found at lowes or home depot. You'll need a piece of 1/4" by 3/4" flat iron, some silicone, and some m6x1.0 hex cap screws and machine screws, but I can't remember the lengths I used.

The first step is removing the rubber trim between the roof panel and the body panel over the doors. It's about a one inch body colored strip. I used a flat head screwdriver with a rag over it to protect the paint to pry. Be careful with the ends, it's just wedged in for the length of it except the ends where it clips in. This is what the gutter looks like with the strip removed.



Under that you'll find two small bolts near the front of the car, one near the center of the roof, and two again near the back.

Next, you're going to make the metal mounting plates, as you can see here.



As you can see, the top one has four holes, two countersunk through holes and two threaded holes. Those are for the front mounting point. The bottom ones only have one countersunk through hole. I used this for mounting to the center lone hole. I chose to use the center mounting point because the rear was so far from the front I wasn't sure the bike trays would reach the rear, and I thought it would be more aesthetically pleasing this way.

So you pull out the bolts where you're planning to mount your landing pads. I believe it was a 10mm head, and I know the threads are m6x1.0, and measure the distance between them. Measure the gap between the holes on you landing pad and draw up a plan for your mounting plate. I wish I still had my measurements or drawings to share, but I'd really rather not pull off my landing pads to remeasure. But as you can see, for the front mounting plates, the gaps are too similar for either set of holes to fit within the other. I mounted mine where the threaded landing pad holes are just in front of the roof mounting through holes, and I found that this resulted in my faring being positioned where I wanted it on my roof. The rear plates were much easier to plan out because they only require the single through hole in the center for mounting to the roof and the two threaded holes for the landing pad.

First cut the flat iron into the lengths you need, the front plates will likely be longer than the rears. Then drill the holes necessary. When drilling the holes, I'd recommend using a center punch to locate your holes, and I hope you have access to a drill press and some quality bits. The through holes must be large enough for the tapered head machine screws to pass through into the roof, and I'd recommend countersinking so that the screws are flush with the top of your mounting plate. The threaded holes should be tapped for m6x1.0, which is the threading of the hex cap screws that come with the landing pads. I honestly can't remember if those were the correct length or if I ended up buying longer ones. For this entire section remember to measure twice, cut once. I ended up having to remake my front plates because I was rushing.

You should now have plates that look something like the ones pictured above. Test fit your plates and see if you get something like this.

Front:


Rear:


If you have plates that fit properly with the holes in the roof and the holes in the landing pad, the hard part is over. I'd recommend taking those and putting a couple of coats of spray paint on them to keep them from rusting. They will never be seen, so whatever paint you've got lying around. Reward yourself with a beer (if you haven't already had a couple).

Next, turn your attention to the rubber strips you removed earlier. If you look at the underside, they have two layers of thick rubber connected by a strip down the center like a squashed I beam. There are already cutouts where the 5 small bolts are on each side. Now you're going to enlarge those cutouts to clear your mounting plates, like so.

Before:


After:


Now hopefully the paint has dried on your mounting plates and you're ready to do the final mounting. I would recommend putting a bit of silicone around the mounting holes to keep rain from leaking in. You can even use some kind of thread sealer if you're really worried about that. Just seal them up and screw them down.

Next you can drill some holes through the rubber strip for the landing pad bolts to pass through. I test fitted the rubber strips and used a pencil to mark where the holes needed to be.



Then I just took a drill and made some holes. It's ugly, but it's covered by the landing pad. As I've said this is the biggest downfall of this mounting style. if you ever want to get rid of the rack completely, these holes will always be there.



Now mount the landing pads.





Then you can build your rack as you normally would.



I absolutely love it, and would never want one with door hooks now. I think it looks better, and it is sooo easy to put on and take off. It literally takes me less than a minute with no help.

ON:


OFF:


Hope this helps! If anyone reproduces this please share with us what measurements you use for the mounting plates and the lengths you find to work for the machine screws and the hex cap screws.
 

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Thanks a bunch Bryan, this will be helpful!

I appreciate the detailed info on this. I will post my pics and info as soon as I get started on it......later this month. Cheers!
 

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Has anyone else attempted this? I will be trying this later this month before summer so that I have a rack for my bikes. Just need to find a machine shop for the brackets.
 

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Great post and alternative to the normal clamp mount method. When I came across a reasonable deal for a roof rack this will definitely be how I would want to mount it.
 

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Hot ride.

Great job on the custom install too!

Migs
 

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The spacing of the bolts in the car is 8cm (front and back sets). The spacing on the Yakima landing pads is 3 13/16" (97mm)
 

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Hey BERK,

I have a few questions; which landing pads did you use (link shows error now), Which control towers, 48" crossbars, and 44" wind fairing correct?

I'm going to do this to my 04 is300 sedan in the future.

Thanks in advance!

Travis
 
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