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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, So I know that there has been a few ppl that have done this before, but the way I saw the it done was poorly executed and wasn't a clean job for a "Lexus". I think things should be done with precision with quality in mind...So, with that being said, here is my attempt at making one. The tools/materials you will need are 8"x20" piece of what ever metal you will be using, ratchet, 3" extension to make it easier 8mm (clamps) 10mm (battery, main cover, etc.) 12mm (two nuts under the throttle body) and 14mm (a bolt in the back holding a bracket for a plug and ground wire) a pair of pliers (to brake the tab off the pre talked about bracket) a jigsaw and a torch (bending the metal) a drill and drill bits (2 sizes) 2 flat washers and 1- m10 x m16 bolt.

I went to the dyno yesterday watching a few of my friends pull upper 500s and low 600s to the wheels in Honda's...yep, made me quite sad when I'd be lucky to get 190, lol and yes, I have videos of them too. Anyway, as I was there I was showing them my new IS and I wanted to see how much cooler the k&n FIPK (plastic piping) was to the typhoon (metal piping) and to my surprise it was a hell of a lot hotter then I'd like...by far! So I started looking for some scrap metal that was laying around and I noticed he had a lot of diamond plate, on the side so I asked him if he had any scrap metal around that he wouldn't mind if I could buy from him...He said he had some diamond plate so I asked him how much I could buy it for, he said "hell, I'll just give it to ya". The piece I was given was 16"x23". The perfect size.

First disconnect the battery, then take the main cover off and unbolt your intake (I'm not going into this cause there are many different kinds), unbolt the bracket under the throttle body (two on the throttle body itself and 2 on the motor, all are 12mm) and the back bolt on the motor for the bracket/ground (14mm or 9/16..someone lost my 14mm). I believe that is everything you will need to take off.
So on with the build... I measured about how much I would need and took a piece of cardboard and cut about that size...Turned out I needed it to be 8"x20" for a perfect fit, so after that I got to thinking about the injen one was designed and basically made it off of how it was made.



There was a lot of prefitting to get this to fit correct so take your time. What is needed to be done to the 8"x20" piece of cardboard is measure one inch in and mark a line...and another mark at six inches in. (as shown) That will give you where the metal needs to be bent.



After that mark where your holes are needed...The easiest way to do this is to get it exactly where you need it and make an indention in the cardboard to you can see where the holes go. After you punch those out look where the holes at the front and back of the motor are and punch a hole with a pen to make those. You will also need to cut two notches out as well (as shown). After you have it fitting nice, you are ready to copy your template to the piece of metal you will be using.



First just mark the lines and bend at them...Unless you work at a machine shop, this will be kinda difficult unless your used to making due without. I used 2 pieces of wood and screwed them together to hold the metal (quick tip, when you do this, don't put the line right on the edge, pull it out about a little cause it will bend about an 1/4" further down than the edge of the wood) After this, use the torch to heat the metal up where you will be bending it so it will bend tight and strait at that place you are trying to. This you will have to use trial and error to get the fitment just right...Then make the other bend on the other line...should look something like this...



Only after you have everything bent the way you want it, place the cardboard pattern on top and mark your holes and cut-outs...I cut my slits 5/8" in with the top shaved for clearance and looks. Also, where the holes marked, I have the center of them 1/2" in from the edge. When you are done, it should look something like this...(Quick tip...everywhere that is cut on mine is needed for clearance)



Take a pair of pliers and brake the tab off the bracket in the back (it's only there to make sure it's installed and stays vertical) After you make sure everything is fitting exactly the way you want it, put it on for one last time (on the two bolts that stick out, I put 2 washers to more even out the heat shield, you'll see why). You will need to bolt the last bolt (that you bought) into the predrilled hole in the front of the motor. Then the only thing left to do is install everything back the way you took it off and enjoy the look of your new heat shield :)




 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Nice work but that diamond plated look is a little ghetto.
Well I wouldn't say ghetto as much as I would *******, lol but hey, it was free, who am I to complain. I'll probably change it later as this was just a mach up.
 

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very nice!!+rep
 

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not feelin the diamond plate, but it's good work

1/8" sheet metal sandblasted black would look sweet
 

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does that heathshield really help out temp wise? the header one? just wondering because i notcied my engine bay getting pretty hot at times and im thinking thats affecting performance..just because i did change headers and y pipe with pro 1 headers(megan) im wondering if thats why my intake gets pretty hot.. i got a 3rd gen injen intake. chrome.. sometimes it feels pretty hot.. does anyone know if their is a way to wrap the intake or something where i can keep it cooler? im pretty sure the colder the better.. correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
does that heathshield really help out temp wise? the header one? just wondering because i notcied my engine bay getting pretty hot at times and im thinking thats affecting performance..just because i did change headers and y pipe with pro 1 headers(megan) im wondering if thats why my intake gets pretty hot.. i got a 3rd gen injen intake. chrome.. sometimes it feels pretty hot.. does anyone know if their is a way to wrap the intake or something where i can keep it cooler? im pretty sure the colder the better.. correct?
You are very correct, cooler is a lot better for power...but to answer your question, yes, the heat shield did help out a great deal...I didn't have a temp meter but I'd say the intake was about 115 deg. and with the heat shield it is noticeably cooler...maybe around 85 or so. But yes, doing this will greatly help you especially if you have been sitting at a stoplight or something. Don't get me wrong, it will NOT cure it but it does help quite a bit

This weekend I'm having it powercoated black...will post up pics when I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
PLP was known to rattle.:pissed:
Well I'm happy to say that it doesn't rattle one bit...maybe because it's a lot thicker then regular sheet metal? Dunno...It works, looks good and it fits great and that;s all I care about, lol.
 
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