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My question is about the crossover. Built in or external crossover, whether its passive or active...which would be better?
 

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built-in or external doesn't really matter. as long as you get enough crossover channels that suit your needs. most HU's (like alpines 9887 and the Pioneer PRS 880) have built-in crossovers...but you're limited to three-way (sub in the rear, and mids and tweets up front). if you want to go 3-way up front with a sub in the rear (4-way) then you'll need an external corssover, or HU/processor combo like the Pioneer P9 combo or Alpine W205/H701. maybe even use the 9887/880's built-in to split between sub, midbass, and mid/tweet, and then use a passive crossover for the mid/tweet combo...still 4-way alltogether with a 3-way active and 2-way passive crossover.

active gives you more control over your crossover freq. and slope. you have some level of adjustment using a passive crossover, but it's usually limited to tweeter attenuation and maybe a choice between two pre-set crossover frequencies. also, passive splits the signal after the amp so you will get some loss due to the components in the crossover. active crossover splits the signal before the amp so every watt your amp puts out gets to your speaker (ignoring the minor loss due to speaker cable resistance).

so the main question to ask yourself is how many speakers do you want, because the options are endless.
 

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^^^^That was helpful. Thanks and have some rep tea
 

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You can do a 4-way semi active with just the processing from your head unit with enough amp channels.

Set up the 3-way how you want it and output the midbass channel to another bass amp where you can cross it over lower with the amps passive LP filter for your subs. In most 3-way HU setups, the midbass would only have a low pass. This would allow those freqs to go to the sub as well when you link it. Set the sub up to come in where the midbass leaves off.

Also, with passive component setups (although I'm not an expert) I believe the crossovers on higher end stuff are set up to compensate for things like the specific frequency response anomolies of the driver in question, off-axis response, etc. That's why it's always a good idea to use the crossovers meant for your components. If you buy individual parts and know the frequency response parameters of each driver and how to match them, then you can go active (3-4way).

I'm not an expert at this but I do have active crossovers in my HU and I just use it to tweak the midbass-to-sub frequency and match output levels. It's a lot easier (imo) to do this with active crossovers in the HU than to tweak the amp(s) settings in the trunk or wherever.

-V
 

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Cool :cool:

Also with some amps. It comes with a built in X-overs. Are they good and will the active X-over have an effect on it?
 

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Cool :cool:

Also with some amps. It comes with a built in X-overs. Are they good and will the active X-over have an effect on it?
The active x-over will control what freqs get to your amp. You can apply the amp's x-over for additional filtering if you wish. The quality should be ok if you have a decent amp. I leave my amp's x-overs turned off.
 
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