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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I stopped at Micky D's, as I cut the wheel all the way to one side to park it, this LOUD screeching sound started in my engine bay and wouldnt stop! I uncut the wheel and still nothing, I turned off the AC and it stopped. But then I turned the AC back on when I left it didnt do it. I got home tucked my wheel over and it did it again. Wierd because I literally just replaced everything in my engine bay like belt, rebuilt the AC compressor, and much more. I tried to look for the noise but its so LOUD its everywhere. Im think maybe AC but I cant pin point it. I think Im gonna pull the belt and spin my pulleys.

What do you think?
 

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I think Im gonna pull the belt and spin my pulleys.
I would try that first. I recently rebuilt my AC compressor as well because the rotor bearing was squealing very badly at different times. Luckily I was able to find a bearing on eBay for $10 and pressed the new one on without having to remove the compressor at all. Its possible it could be you drive belt tensioner as they seem to go bad(replaced at 50K). But yea, that's what I would do, spin each pulley and check for any play. Also, if your tensioner hasn't been replaced, make sure you have the proper tension. Using your thumb and index finger, you shouldn't be able to turn the belt much more than 90 degrees. I can see a bad tensioner causing the squealing. When you rebuilt the A/C compressor, did you make sure to put the shims back on the rotor shaft? Anyways, as you may know, when the steering wheel is at lock, it will squeal a bit because of the high pressure being locked to one side, but when you turned the wheel back it should've stopped making any noises. it doesn't seem like a power steering pump, unless it's the bearing. I know you said its extremely loud and hard to pinpoint the noise, but if you can, try using a like a 1/2" pipe and VERY CAREFULLY use it as a stethoscope and touch it near each bearing pulley(but on the pump/unit itself). If its a bearing, you'll hear a growling noise. Post back what you find.
 

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Sounds like something with your power steering since it happens when you turn the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I got my shooting muffs and went at it lol. It was much easier to listen with my muffs on. I located the sound comming from way down below. I turned the car off and YOUR NOT GONA BELIEVE THIS!

When I got back around to the engine bay I pulled on the belt to check tension AND IT CAME OUT IN MY HAND!! LMAO I heard a clunk when I pulled the belt. Sooo I removed the skid plate on the bottom and out my problem fell. It was my Harmonic balancer coming apart. Lucky me my Engineering shop is not to far they hooked me up with a used one off another 2J motor for free. Im already back and running and she purrs like a kitten.
 

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I am in the same boat right now. It started making this sound about 2 months ago. It was really random but mostly when first starting the car it would just do a short screech. Then I started to realize it was only if I start the car and then immediately start turning the steering wheel. So I replaced the belt and while at it I noticed my tensioner was cracking so I replaced that too. That helped for a few days. Then I got to thinking it could be the AC going bad so the next time I heard the noise I turned of the AC and it instantly stopped. But then a few days later I start the car and hear Sreeeeeeech-thump and then the screech went away. I go to turn the wheel and notice the PS is gone. Shut it off and check under the hood to find the harmonic balancer just laying on the undertray. I left the car and came back with tools and just put the pulley back on by hand and then put the belt back on and have driven it about 30 miles this way! Basically the pulley shears from the center and then it is just the tension from the belt that keeps it together. But when you load it up with the AC and PS, the crank starts to spin the center of the pulley. It blows my mind that it ran this way for a few months! I am very relieved that it wasn't my AC going bad. :)

I am now trying to source a new pulley.
 

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Ermax,

I came to all the same conclusions haha. Even to the 'don't run the AC and no screech!', and it being load-based.

But I wish I would have seen this thread before this morning. Same stroke of 'luck' hit me today while going to work (on the interstate). Battery light came on, no PS, and temp was up! Came as a shock considering how easy going as this car has been. Luckily it was cold this morning and made it to an exit...got out and saw the slack belt and pulley sitting on undertray.

Moral is: If any of you guys/gals hear a squack/screech when you load the belt with accessories like PS+AC, you are at risk of this occurring. Check out the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) before it falls off at an inopportune time!

I have about 188k miles.
 

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I am a tad over 200K on mine. I ended up ordering this pulley for $75 after shipping:
Lexus IS300 SC300 GS300 Toyota Supra 3.0L L6 Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft pulley

The price seems too good to be true though. UPS says it will be here Wednesday. I will report back here what the part looks like. I may not get a chance to install it until the weekend. I will report back how it goes once the new one is installed.
 

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The pulley arrived but was damaged in shipping. I guess I get to wait even longer.



Other than the damage the part looks good.
 

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2JZ harmonic balancers tend to fail at high mileage due to the rubber in between the center and the outer part coming apart. Happens in all 2JZs lol
 

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Well the company I order this pulley from promptly responded to my email with a photo of the damaged part and he quickly sent out a replacement. So far he hasn't even requested that I ship the damaged part back. So very good service for sure. The new part is in and this time it wasn't dropped by UPS. This morning I spent about 40mins working on it. I removed the airbox, removed the lower splash guard, drained the radiator, removed the upper and lower hoses and connectors and pulled the radiator. I also removed the belt. I ran out of time and had to head to work. Tonight I will remove the crank bolt using the method I documented in this post here:
http://my.is/forums/f114/crank-pulley-bolt-removal-changing-timing-belt-219603/index7.html#post6522035

The hardest part will be putting coolant back in this thing a getting all the air out. This seems to always be a pain in the butt. If I had a lift I could probably do the whole job without removing the radiator or the airbox and the total job would probably only be 20mins.
 

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Dang thats a bummer.

I think I bought the same one though...it was about $60 on ebay :cool: or $410 at Lexus and $380 at Toyota. Mine looks just like the one you bought though. I have been driving it for about 2 weeks now with no problems at all.

For fixing it, I made my own tool to restrain the crank. Someone else had made a similar one on a forum. I used a 2" x 3ft C channel steel bar. Hole sawed the crank bolt clearance with a 1 3/8" hole saw, and drilled access holes for the 2 M8 screws that go in there (I can post a pic later if needed). I also highly recommend grade 8 screws, which on the metric scale are Class 10.9--dont be fooled by class 8.8. I also backed up the screws by filling the gap between the C channel and the pulley with washers. Then I rested the bar on the garage floor and cranked away with a breaker bar and an extension pipe. It was tough, but it came off. Then you simply lay the bar on the opposite side to fasten it on.

I avoided draining/removing the radiator, but I undid the top hose and removed the fan shroud. I was trying to force it up+out and it would not come out for the life of me with the radiator still there then I hit the upper inlet on the radiator with the fans and chipped a tiny piece off the plastic/fiberglass? cap on the radiator and it made me think: I know some people have done it, but...Not worth it! So I undid both radiator clips and pulled up the radiator with the lower hose still attached. The hose has enough clearance and play for you to manipulate the radiator (lift+angle forward) and so you can get the fan shroud out. Then I put the radiator back in and covered it with a plexi sheet on the inside for accidental impact protection. I guess it depends on what you are driving the bolt with. Belt was a piece of cake to put back on too. If you have an '04-'05 don't be scared of the little shock on the tensioner. It is not under load and comes off easily if needed.

Good luck! Any questions feel free to ask as this is semi-fresh on my mind:cool:


Oh, almost forgot. I also recommend buying a new bolt. It is like $6-$7 or so--which is cheap for a warm and fuzzy. I read somewhere that it is a one-time use/deforming bolt since the threads stretch under the fastening torque. The bolt threads maintain tension this way, rather than using a lock/compression washer.
 

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Damn... I should have left the lower hose on like you did. Would have saved a ton of time. Too late now. Hahaha.
 

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The bolt came off with no problems using the method I linked to above. Gotta love manual tranys. :) Too bad they are slowly (actually rapidly) becoming extinct.
 

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Haha, and I should have used your method for removing the bolt rather than making a tool. I searched but didn't come across it.

I probably wasted more time going to the store and buying the steel for the 'custom' SST than you draining/removing the radiator ;)

To summarize for whoever is searching:
-Try to avoid draining the radiator all the way by not removing the lower hose.
-If you have a manual tranny, you don't need the SST. But if you need one, you can make it for about $20-$30 depending on what tools you have at home.
-It's not as bad as it seems :)
 

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Had to change mine yesterday it started screaming last week when I started car but stopped after I bumped throttle. Figured it was the belt as I had bn drivin in the rain for abit befor hand. Made noise here n there during week went to swap belt n check tensioner Friday n noticed I could free spin it.
 

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This I can't believe. The pulley was screeching on and off depending on load. But I downshifted on the interstate and took off and when I did I heard a thump and after that the pulley was screeching 100% of the time. When I took the pulley off I noticed the outer race was completely missing. That thump on the interstate was the outer race falling off. I have no clue how the belt managed to stay on and ride on what was left of the pulley. It made a lot of noise but my accessories were still running.

Anyways, I have completed the job. Total time was probably about 2 hours. Had I not fully drained the radiator I probably could have dropped that to 1.5 hours. All in all it was a very simple job. If you have a MT you can use my method to remove the bolt which is easy, if you have an AT then you need a tool for sure. I hardly even got my hands dirty on this job.

I have 3 days on this $60 pulley and so far so good. Time will tell I guess.
 

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first time i pulled mine i did everything under car without botherin anything else. this time broke multible chain straps 2 breaker bars pulled radiator had chain n pole jammed to floor 6 ft pole on a breaker bar holdin then a smack with a 4lb sledge n she broke loose. only was on about a month as power dynamix just built the motor he wasnt fn around when he said he torqed it to spec lol
 

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So this is happening to me as we speak too. Does it really matter if we don't go with an OEM part? I'm thinking of buying the same one "Ermax" bought (https://www.dependable-autoparts.com/lexus-is300-sc300-gs300-toyota-supra-3-0l-l6-harmonic-balancer-crankshaft-pulley/?gclid=CLDxx_i4j7sCFWJo7AodxHgAXQ) and getting a new OEM bolt (part # 90119-18002). Is there anything else I should consider while I'm there doing the job? I just did my timing belt a few months ago so I'm good in that department. My alternator did take a dump just after the timing belt job and I'm starting to think it's to blame for the harmonic balancer taking a dump now too... FML :/
 
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