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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While doing the T- belt on my GTE Aristo motor " GTE swap in progress"
I noticed that the crankshaft had a hair of play in terms of front to back movement.
I don't know if this is a common thing on 2JZ engines but it worries the hell out of me. I know DSMs are notorious for crank walk. This usually occurs when the thrust bearing and crank eat away at each other; leaving excessive front to back free play.
I took a digital measuring caliper, measured the distance while prying on the flywheel(bolted to the crank) forward and then backward. The end play on the crank is .0055 in. Factory specs tolerance ranges between .0008 in. and .0087 in. Max clearance is .0118 in.
The worry some part of all of this is the little hair of a movement, I can hear and feel when I push hard or tug on the crank pulley(bolted to the crank). Please tell me this is normal, after all that work it would suck to not be able to drop in this motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Supra guys say it is possible/happens with/caused by stiff single disk clutches.....I haven't heard much about it though.
yeah, I can understand it happening to DSMs and other cars that have rediculios stiff clutches pressing against the flywheel but this an from Auto
Aristo...Automatics usually don't do that.
 

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yeah, I can understand it happening to DSMs and other cars that have rediculios stiff clutches pressing against the flywheel but this an from Auto
Aristo...Automatics usually don't do that.
Yeah, I'm just saying if it does happen it's said to be from the clutch. I haven't read anything where it has happened to the auto guys so you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I got a more accurate reading with dial indicator and the Crank's end play is almost at it max allowance. Luckiley there was no significant wear on the crank its self. I installed a new set of thrust washers and bearings and everything is within specs now.

For anyone who is thinking about buying a swap, please invest in a DIAL INDICATOR. As soon as you get the engine, take off crank pulley and measure crankshaft end play. The retailers claim that these motors all have good compression but what about the crank and its specs? I can't stress the importance of having a motor with good thrust clearance.
DSMs are notorious for crank walk but guess what, a few of the Supra guys with
heavy clutches get that too. If you have an Auto that don't make you invincible either, run any motor on low or crappy oil and it will happen. Remember, the JDM engines are used and there's no telling what it went through.
 

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Automatics can be crank walked as well. Lack of oil and more horsepower than stock can cause a converter to balloon putting excessive pressure on the thrust bearing.
 

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Glad you sorted it out before you dropped the motor in.
 

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Thrust washers are so cheap id replace them anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
For those of you running manual trannys consider these suggestions.
1. Bypass clutch start system. Starting a motor while pressing on the clutch will push/pull a dry crankshaft against the trust washer/bearing; can contribute to trust washer wear.
2. If you live in a very populated area and have to clutch often for traffic lights, traffic jams...raise your idle about 200-300 rpms. This will increase oil pressure/lubrication at crankshaft and help reduce friction on thrust washer during clutch in periods.
3. Buy a magnetic drain cork(bolt) for your oil pan; you'll be surprised to see the things that get stuck to it.
4. Use good oil of course, I prefer a good synthetic. Royal Purple is well known for its "film strength".
 

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how do you bypass the clutch start system. i know there is a switch/button when the clutch is pushed in. do you just simply disconnect the switch or find some way to keep the button pushed in at all times?
I think i unplugged the connect from the clutch switch and put a paper clip accross the pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you find the problem before it becomes major, you can get away with it by just replacing the bearing/washer; as long as the crank journal, main bearing cap and block doesn’t have excess ware. But to surely know the extent of the damage, you have to inspect and measure out the clearances.
Machining the crank and using under size bearings may be an option if clearances are excessive; however, I don't recommend cutting it past .25 under. Taking off too much material from a crank makes it weak. Keep in mind, many Aspirated engines are assembled with crankshafts that have a hardened top layer on their bearing journals.
 
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