Obviously, a car with centralized mass for a body with low rotational inertia.
In terms of suspension geometry it's a combination of:
1. front camber close to zero deg to give you the maximal contact patch at no body roll
2. low caster (kingpin angle close to vertical) to maintain that contact patch with the wheels turned, but with the body yet to roll
3. low "lateral caster" (lateral kingpin angle close to vertical, don't have the term for it) to not lose contact patch in turning the wheels while the body has yet to roll
4. front toe-in close to zero, or even toe-out
5. Ackerman close as possible to "perfect". (Long definition omitted)
But you'd also need tires with nice stiff sidewalls and a low slip angle.
Basically, you're making sure that as much of the front tires' contact patches are available at zero body roll (body still going straight) but with the wheels turned, slightly or more.
(Of course this doesn't necessarily mean that the maximal contact patches will still be there when the body begins to roll after turn-in, or even in the instance when you compress the front suspension by braking weight transfer. Real-life tuning for good turn-in is a compromise of these complications, in addition to tuning out some turn-in so the car doesn't spin at the slightest jerk of the steering wheel.)
(Amazing what you learn playing with R/C cars.)
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051/LP/SR/LD/HH
In terms of suspension geometry it's a combination of:
1. front camber close to zero deg to give you the maximal contact patch at no body roll
2. low caster (kingpin angle close to vertical) to maintain that contact patch with the wheels turned, but with the body yet to roll
3. low "lateral caster" (lateral kingpin angle close to vertical, don't have the term for it) to not lose contact patch in turning the wheels while the body has yet to roll
4. front toe-in close to zero, or even toe-out
5. Ackerman close as possible to "perfect". (Long definition omitted)
But you'd also need tires with nice stiff sidewalls and a low slip angle.
Basically, you're making sure that as much of the front tires' contact patches are available at zero body roll (body still going straight) but with the wheels turned, slightly or more.
(Of course this doesn't necessarily mean that the maximal contact patches will still be there when the body begins to roll after turn-in, or even in the instance when you compress the front suspension by braking weight transfer. Real-life tuning for good turn-in is a compromise of these complications, in addition to tuning out some turn-in so the car doesn't spin at the slightest jerk of the steering wheel.)
(Amazing what you learn playing with R/C cars.)
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051/LP/SR/LD/HH
