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Cone Killer
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Donnie said:
Slight change in set up

rear camber (-.6)
rear toe 1/16th toe out

everything else has stayed the same

Donnie
Yeap, those look like the numbers most everyone ran in the rear.
How did ya get -1.25 camber in the front?? I thought we could not get more than -1.0 camber in the front?
 

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Cone Killer
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jonathonbarton said:
* Even with my tagged cone, I bested the D-Stock cars by a full 5 seconds - and a full 7 and a quarter seconds if my fastest run were clean...
* My runs were a full 10-12 seconds faster than what I can manage in my dedicated autocross MR2, which is a light, nimble vehicle...
* Even in my noobness I was only about 3 seconds back from Donnie...
Wow that is very impressive!!!!
 

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cone killer
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METEORO said:
How did ya get -1.25 camber in the front?? I thought we could not get more than -1.0 camber in the front?

the shop that i took it to does alot of toyota stuff i told him to get as much as he could using the factory adjustments

Donnie
 

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shocks?

I'm considering purchasing an IS300, trading in my mazdaspeed protege. One thing that gives me pause is the soft and more disconnected feeling of the suspension. I love how tight the msp is. Will a good set of autocross shocks and a bar get me there? How dramatic is the difference? How much will they cost?

Thanks in advance. =]
 

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Speed Enthusiast
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murph1379 said:
I'm considering purchasing an IS300, trading in my mazdaspeed protege. One thing that gives me pause is the soft and more disconnected feeling of the suspension. I love how tight the msp is. Will a good set of autocross shocks and a bar get me there? How dramatic is the difference? How much will they cost?

Thanks in advance. =]

You won't be disappointed!

The IS comes alive with sways alone. Of course, modding being what it is, you'll likely want to go to shocks and springs too. I just finished that journey myself. Started with sways, loved it. Put Koni's on, loved it more. Put Eibach's on, love it even more!

I haven't autocrossed it yet but have been to the track. In all honesty, you'll probably want at least sways and shocks for the track.

So to alignment, has anyone experimented on track as opposed to autocross? I'm hearing that close to maximum negative camber is good at the front, half way at the back, and if anything, a little bit of toe out at the front and neutral at the back. A lot of positive castor seems the way to go here to maximize negative camber under cornering.

I understand that autocross setups could be poorly suited to track use, especially high speed tracks, as they can be VERY unstable.

I had the chance to measure temps across the tire at Laguna Seca a while back. The suspension was at the factory settings, and the car had only the TRD sways at the time. The temps at about 38 psi (cold) in front and 34 psi (cold) in back were pretty even across the tire. The hot pressures were about 45 psi in front and 40 in back.

Does anyone have any input as to racing specs?

I have attached a short article on the subject too.

http://www.advancedracing.com/chassissetup.php
 

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New to the IS 300 and need advice

autocross a miata and want my IS 300 more for high speed stuff ( hwy and posible track days).

I found this email string which seems to end a long time ago but addresses alignment settings for autocross.

I am looking for assistance with recommendations for what to set the car for higher speeds than on an autocross.

Also recommendations on aftermarket additions that will help the car.

I am used to using:: revalved for autocross Koni yellows , larger front sway bar, Hawk pads,LSD and -1.2 negative camber front[ max i can get], -1.5 in rear to reduce power understeer....small amount of toe out front and same small amont toe in in rear for straight line stability with max caster. works great on a 99 miata but the IS 300 is significantly different and would like to hear from those of you that have learned all the tricks to make this car handle beyond the factory's expectations.

thanks for you help.
 

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Dsp the itr in my class is so fast this was my only option
Just got it to fit last night thanks to the Eastwood fender roller and finisher pics coming soon
 

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so we had a autox last weekend and i did run the hoosiers a6 f 255/35/18 r 285/35/18
i did get it to rub the driver f but thats fixed now here a pic of my car going into a turn around
 

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Had my alignment done friday. I'm not competing in this car, but wanted to have a somewhat responsive set up.

18x8 front, 18x8.5 rears lowered on pro-kits

camber: lf: -1.0 rf: -1.0

toe: 0.0

camber: lr: -1.8 rr: -2.1

toe: 1/8 inch <-- is that too much? Should I go back and get it to 1/16th?

Thanks in advance.
 

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is300 setups? im running stx and my current list of what i have done is as follows, direzza star specs 225/45/17, h&r springs, tokico illumina, hotchkis sways, 2.2 neg cam front 1.8 rear. what can i do to better set myself up? i would like wider tires but currently rub the fenders. i have stock wheels would consider some not real expensive wheels.
 

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I'm also running in STX. I'm currently running 225/45 on the stock wheels, but looking at getting a 17x8 wheel and moving to a 245/45 once I burn through this set. You may want to look at getting some aftermarket sway bars. I went with Hotchkis in the front and back. It was a huge difference compared to stock.

Also, in STX you can roll the inside of your fenders to allow the larger tire clearance. We just cant change the shape/contour of the outside of the fender.
 

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The factory front camber was -0.5, so I reset to 0.0 to increase turn-in, making directonal changes quicker. I did the opposite in the rear to keep it planted better when exiting tight turns under WOT. It worked really well with my MR2 Spyder in B Stock. Then I read in another thread that those were the same settings Derek Butts used on his IS last year. Good enough for me, I figured! You'd think the "looser" front would tend to increase trammlining, but the opposite happened making me think that the negative rear toe has more of an effect on that. The car tracks better now, and really digs into a turn. Much improved.
 

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Preparing for track season here, I'm looking to start with -2.0 Deg front camber and -1.5 rear. I will also be increasing toe a bit. Should give improved turn in and insure that I don't have any issues with understeer.
 

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Need some advice on if I'm going to pull the trigger on these wheels.
What do you guys think about 17inch wheels VS 18inch wheels?
These wheels will be for road racing.
I was hoping to get a set of 18's but these are such a good deal I don't want to pass them up. Just want advice on what people think.
My Lexus has about a 1'inch-1.5inch drop all around. I'm riding on stock 17's right now.
 

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Unless you have a lot of money to throw away at tires, 17" wheels are definitely the way to go. If you compare 18" and 17" tires of the same section width, the 18" tires are around $50-100 more each, so $200-400 more expensive. Depending on how aggressive your suspension setup is and how much camber you can get, you'll either want 8.5" or 9" wide wheels. You can look into other threads on these forums for more firment info.
 
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