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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

I have a AEM EMS that has a basemap from Collin to get me to the shop to get tuned. Problem is, the car runs stupid rich (like 6.8 to 1 afr). So rich that it backfires at idle.

I was too afraid to burn up the rings and attempt to drive it, so my question is this: What condition should the car be in before you drop it to get tuned?

I got the car to idle, but I don't think it's drivable. I'm like 10 miles from the shop, so I considered just having it towed, and since shops tune for idle, partial and WOT, I thought maybe it would be okay, but I'm not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
better not take any chances...TOW IT ;)
Yea, but are shops cool with that? Is that part of tuning, or am I going to get hit up for other charges to do extra work? I know of only one other issue that I need to square away, and that is the fact that my wideband (AEM UEGO), and what the AEM is reading is not matched up.

I'm going to measure voltages when it warms up and see if I need to recalibrate it, even though the AEM has cal settings for the AEM UEGO within the program (which is what I have it set at).

I just want to get the car tuned so I can drive it already. The anticipation is building up, it's been sitting in the garage for months now. Waiting.
 

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Most tuning shop will charge by the hour to tune a vehicle, in the event that your vehicle is way out of tune that would equate to more hours spent to correct the tune. So if your question is will it cost you more, it's quite possible, but it all depends on how the shop charges.

I would try to lean out the map a bit before taking it anywhere, just like you said you could possibly dump too much fuel in and just prematurely wear the rings.
 

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Most tuning shop will charge by the hour to tune a vehicle, in the event that your vehicle is way out of tune that would equate to more hours spent to correct the tune. So if your question is will it cost you more, it's quite possible, but it all depends on how the shop charges.

I would try to lean out the map a bit before taking it anywhere, just like you said you could possibly dump too much fuel in and just prematurely wear the rings.
Yeah, ask dave about this. He actually had the same problem, running really rich, ended up caking his spark plugs making it so the car wouldn't even start. Shops will take tow in's.. just expect a higher tuning bill.
 

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Guys,

I have a AEM EMS that has a basemap from Collin to get me to the shop to get tuned. Problem is, the car runs stupid rich (like 6.8 to 1 afr). So rich that it backfires at idle.

I was too afraid to burn up the rings and attempt to drive it, so my question is this: What condition should the car be in before you drop it to get tuned?

I got the car to idle, but I don't think it's drivable. I'm like 10 miles from the shop, so I considered just having it towed, and since shops tune for idle, partial and WOT, I thought maybe it would be okay, but I'm not sure.
i'll give you a call, i have been busy the last few days, gradschool is getting crazy - exam time
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, ask dave about this. He actually had the same problem, running really rich, ended up caking his spark plugs making it so the car wouldn't even start. Shops will take tow in's.. just expect a higher tuning bill.
Mine won't start right now because the plugs look like charcoal from running only 5min, thats how rich it is.

Most tuning shop will charge by the hour to tune a vehicle, in the event that your vehicle is way out of tune that would equate to more hours spent to correct the tune. So if your question is will it cost you more, it's quite possible, but it all depends on how the shop charges.

I would try to lean out the map a bit before taking it anywhere, just like you said you could possibly dump too much fuel in and just prematurely wear the rings.
Almost every shop here charges a flat rate between 550-600 bucks. I myself would feel more comfortable if I could drive the car to the shop, it's a form of troubleshooting, if I can drive it there, I know mechanically, everything is sound, and all they have to do is tune.

i'll give you a call, i have been busy the last few days, gradschool is getting crazy - exam time
No worries man, I knew with school and your move that you are extremely busy. Guess that might rule out flying you up here.

It's frustrating when you have software that you're only marginally familiar with, and it's hard to experiment when the penalty for failure could result in motor damage. I deal with unfamiliar software in my career, but equipment we control has so many internal safeties, that you'd have to be deliberate to destroy the equipment you're controlling.
 

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It's frustrating when you have software that you're only marginally familiar with, and it's hard to experiment when the penalty for failure could result in motor damage. I deal with unfamiliar software in my career, but equipment we control has so many internal safeties, that you'd have to be deliberate to destroy the equipment you're controlling.
i get where you are coming from, but what you have described, it's really difficult to hurt anything.

too much fuel is your enemy right now, leaning out at idle really doesn't do much other than make it not run properly.

I will give you a call sometime - maybe tomorrw, i have a big presentation tomorrow for school (final project presentation) but after that i will have a little more time. i wouldn't rule out me coming up there, i'm always up for it if beer and pizza are provided ;) i frankly am a bit stumped with the issue myself though. it doesn't make much sense - but that's why i want to call you and see if i can iron a few things out. i can guide you through tuning the fuel map - it's pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i get where you are coming from, but what you have described, it's really difficult to hurt anything.

too much fuel is your enemy right now, leaning out at idle really doesn't do much other than make it not run properly.

I will give you a call sometime - maybe tomorrw, i have a big presentation tomorrow for school (final project presentation) but after that i will have a little more time. i wouldn't rule out me coming up there, i'm always up for it if beer and pizza are provided ;) i frankly am a bit stumped with the issue myself though. it doesn't make much sense - but that's why i want to call you and see if i can iron a few things out. i can guide you through tuning the fuel map - it's pretty simple.
All you can eat pizza, and all you can drink beer. Only thing is, you have to drink in moderation until the car is running okay, hahahaha.
 

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I would atleast try to get the car to idle in the 12s and cruise around at ~13:1 or leaner if you could do it. Simple math can go a long way, if you're seeing air/fuel ratios at 6.8:1 and want to be at 13:1 then do the following:

6.8/13 = .52

Multiple the values in the fuel map that are giving you an air/fuel ratio of 6.8:1 by .52. That will get you in the ballpark of 13:1. If you don't you're going to end up spending more time on the dyno, replacing plugs, and changing the contaminated oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would atleast try to get the car to idle in the 12s and cruise around at ~13:1 or leaner if you could do it. Simple math can go a long way, if you're seeing air/fuel ratios at 6.8:1 and want to be at 13:1 then do the following:

6.8/13 = .52

Multiple the values in the fuel map that are giving you an air/fuel ratio of 6.8:1 by .52. That will get you in the ballpark of 13:1. If you don't you're going to end up spending more time on the dyno, replacing plugs, and changing the contaminated oil.
I'll give that a shot this weekend. I was aware of the math, and thought that would work, but having never messed with fuel maps before, I wasn't sure if the map was linear in the numeric adjustments, or if I had to play wit hduty cycles and what not.

I hate not knowing what to do with software you don't understand.
 
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