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Thanks for your input guys.

I was thinking about grinding that corner of the ds flange down, but didn't want to risk unbalancing the shaft.

Update: I removed the shifter housing, and grinded about 3mm off around the area the driveshaft flange and adapter could come in contact. As you can see in the picture below there's much more room now.

Also bummed that the bolts are already rusting, car hasn't even left the garage yet!
 

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The PO of my car bought a XTD 12lb flywheel and Stage 1 clutch. It's a single mass flywheel but IMO it's way too light for the street, it sometimes makes noises at low rpm's that were never there with the OEM dual mass. At some point I'm going to buy an OEM MKIV Supra/SC300 18lb flywheel and a more aggressive clutch. I feel the 18lb weight will be great for the street but still be able to wind the engine out nice.

Edit, just realized this is the AR5 thread. I would run something 18lbs and up IMO.
 

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I have a driftmotion lightweight flywheel. I've used it with both a Clutchmasters FX400 ceramic/puck/sprung clutch, and also the driftmotion stage don't-remember that is also a ceramic puck clutch.

I have a stock head/cams with an old Master Power 72 turbo.

I also have an all-stock IS300 with W55 for comparison, final gearing is same for both cars.

Anyway, you can definitely feel the lack of rotational inertia getting the car going from a stop. It wouldn't be "bad" if not for the ceramic puck clutch disk that doesn't like to slip. There is a learning curve to giving the throttle a blip, and quickly beginning to engage the clutch. Done properly, the whole thing can be done gently and smoothly. In the hands of a noob or a typical girlfriend, there will be lots of clutch chatter and stalling.

I've driven all sorts of manual transmissions for 20+ years, and the light wheel + ceramic puck clutch combination was almost like starting over.

At first I was being too gentle and getting terrible clutch chatter. Then I realized that over ~1500rpm or so, slipping the clutch doesn't chatter - so I would rev it up and engage the clutch smoothly (but too slowly). With practice, I've gotten the feel for it so that I can give just the blip in combination with a fairly aggressive engagement. Again, when done properly after practice, this can be very smoothly with no chatter, no tire chirp, no lurching of the car. Getting started on a hill will require a more aggressive throttle blip and a slower, gentler clutch engagement. But that, too, can be done smoothly without chatter/chirping/lurching.

Last, what Piggity said above about low rpm transmission clatter on account of the light flywheel is totally true.
 

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Thanks for your responses! I’m going to stick with a stock weight flywheel. I’ve also read that some people say you don’t have to run the r154 flywheel, is this true? And does it have to be r154 to 1jz or r154 to 7m?
 

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That’s from an late 07 and newer solstice/sky. You will have to make that bracket, I guess. No one has ever used one in an IS, or if they did use it, they never posted about it. You need the pre-interim design AR5, from 06 and older.
 

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That’s from an late 07 and newer solstice/sky. You will have to make that bracket, I guess. No one has ever used one in an IS, or if they did use it, they never posted about it. You need the pre-interim design AR5, from 06 and older.
That came on a VERY limited production run solstice. I have never seen that piece nor have I heard of anyone ever finding one. It probably a fabrication job if you are going that way.
 

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So I got my hands on a tailhousing but it doesn’t have the metal bracket that goes from trans to trans mount, part gm 10345240. Anyone have one or know where to get one? Or maybe an alternative solution. This swap is beginning to get aggravating lol
 

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Also bummed that the bolts are already rusting, car hasn't even left the garage yet!
because the bolt is black oxide coated. i have never seen a black oxide bolt NOT rust. i think the only reason they dont rust at the hardware store is because they are likely stored with a light oil/grease coating. as soon as you handle them, you basically take that protective layer off.

when i buy bolts, i usually just pony up for stainless. although that may not work if you need a certain grade fastner. just know that every black oxide bolt you will buy WILL rust.
 

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So I got my hands on a tailhousing but it doesn’t have the metal bracket that goes from trans to trans mount, part gm 10345240. Anyone have one or know where to get one? Or maybe an alternative solution. This swap is beginning to get aggravating lol
i cant see the picture here at work, but based off of Kris' verbiage in post 127, it sounds like you bought a side mount one. you arent supposed to buy those.

this is covered in the first post of the thread:
Q. Do i need to buy a certian year AR5?
A. Yes! the 06 and older use a traditional bottom mount. 07 and newer use a side mount system that connects to the solstice differential, this would not be ideal for the IS300 and will require additional work.
 

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No, he has the right one. He's just missing one of the components of the transmission mount. You are probably going to have to source this from some third party website....something like the link below??? I just googled the part number and starting clicking on links...

Buy GM 10345240 Adapter, genuine OEM part
 

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So I got my hands on a tailhousing but it doesn’t have the metal bracket that goes from trans to trans mount, part gm 10345240. Anyone have one or know where to get one? Or maybe an alternative solution. This swap is beginning to get aggravating lol
Did you rush into it?
 

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No, he has the right one. He's just missing one of the components of the transmission mount. You are probably going to have to source this from some third party website....something like the link below??? I just googled the part number and starting clicking on links...

Buy GM 10345240 Adapter, genuine OEM part
So I got my hands on a tailhousing but it doesn’t have the metal bracket that goes from trans to trans mount, part gm 10345240. Anyone have one or know where to get one? Or maybe an alternative solution. This swap is beginning to get aggravating lol
Did you rush into it?
Been collecting parts for about a year and just started the actual swap last weekend. That’s when I realized I was missing that part for the trans mount. The swap isn’t aggravating, just sourcing the discontinued parts. I actually purchased from one of the companies in the link you provided but got a call from them today saying they in fact did not have one. Guess I’ll call the others and hopefully I can find one.
 

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I think the original trans Rajj got was the side mount. The new tail shaft is from the “correct for is300” transmission...is how I take it. I’d still like to see somebody make one of those newer transmission work in our cars. I’ve never had one in front of me, but it doesn’t look super hard.

Anyhow. Try www.hollanderparts.com for the piece you’re missing.
 

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I think the original trans Rajj got was the side mount. The new tail shaft is from the “correct for is300” transmission...is how I take it. I’d still like to see somebody make one of those newer transmission work in our cars. I’ve never had one in front of me, but it doesn’t look super hard.

Anyhow. Try www.hollanderparts.com for the piece you’re missing.
Correct. LKQ sent me an 06 trans but apparently some 06 transmissions have the side mount. Well that’s what I was told by them. Anyways, the tail housing did not come with that piece so now I’m stuck trying to find one. And I’m not sure the side mount will work due to clearances. Very tight in the tunnel but then again my trans might not have been at the correct height.
 

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Finished my auto to ar5 swap. Need help with reverse light and cruise control. Not sure if it’s the same as another thread being that guy swapped to a manual Ecu
 

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Reverse is easy, there’s a plug on the AR5 that looks like a 1” nut filled with epoxy and has two wires potted in the epoxy. You just splice the IS300 reverse wires into them.

Cruise probably won’t work without a manual ecu. It requires all the throttle sensors - Apps1&2, tps1&2, and the dbw controls to function. Do you have any CEL’s? How about your VSS, is it working?
 
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