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I just got my auto salvage license recently and I cant believe how many solstices there are in auctions and slowly in the junkyards. This swap is truly amazing and can be had for cheap. PM if you are looking for a trans on the cheap. I am not looking to make money off of this really, just trying to pay it forward in the community!!
 

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Not sure if I'm splitting hairs but after getting in contact with ACT, they're saying 236mm is the proper disk size for the oem W58 flywheel.
Keep in mind, it's the transmission splines you need to match first. It doesn't matter what flywheel you have if the splines on the tranny input shaft don't match the clutch disk.
 

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Keep in mind, it's the transmission splines you need to match first. It doesn't matter what flywheel you have if the splines on the tranny input shaft don't match the clutch disk.

They said they can make it with the 240mm disk with 26 spline and 1-1/8" shaft but theyre saying I need the 236mm disk for it to work with the w55/58 flywheel and pressure plate. The guide says 240mm. Im guessing it the 240mm will still work.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Not sure if I'm splitting hairs but after getting in contact with ACT, they're saying 236mm is the proper disk size for the oem W58 flywheel.
Hi, some clutch kits will have varying clutch disc diameters, 240mm is the maximum. If act calls for a 236mm disc for there kit, that would be the one you use. I will update the thread to reflect stock size versus maximum possible size.
 

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i posted this in the other thread, hopefully i can get some answers here.

i really need help trying to find out what this vibration issue could be.

- it started happening right after the swap
- it happens at 65mph
- it can't be the driveshaft, it's the proper length and it's balanced
- it starts slowly, then abruptly stops at over 75mph
- differential vibrates a lot while it happens

what could it be? how can i diagnose what it could be?

we tried jacking up the transmission mount (currans) and it still happens regardless of how high it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Can you please give all the details and maybe photos of your drive shaft you used.

The drive line angle is less than 1 degree so the mount or operating angle will not be your problem.
 

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Can you please give all the details and maybe photos of your drive shaft you used.

The drive line angle is less than 1 degree so the mount or operating angle will not be your problem.
How can I check for the drive line angles? I'll post pics of my driveshaft when I get back in town. What details do you need? My driveshaft is a single piece telescoping driveshaft, connected to the drift motion adapter. It's entirely custom
 

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How can I check for the drive line angles? I'll post pics of my driveshaft when I get back in town. What details do you need? My driveshaft is a single piece telescoping driveshaft, connected to the drift motion adapter. It's entirely custom
Go buy digital angle finder from auto parts store or home improvement store.

Remove driveshaft.

Put angle finder flat against transmission output flange (or drift motion adapter) and see degree.

Put angle finder flat against differential input flange and see degree.

Raise/lower diff/transmission to make degrees the exact same or close as possible.

There are a ton of youtube videos and forum post on it, good luck.
 

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hey guys, doing this swap in my 1jz swapped 67 mustang. loads of info that ive been lurking about to plan my swap.
i'm using option A, with the GM hydraulic TOB. anyone use the solstice slave or the colorado slave? i had a hard time getting the trans to come together, had about a quarter inch of clearance between the bell housing and the motor. im using a w58 pressure plate with the drift motion ar5 swap clutch disc, talked to aaron. good guy. i noticed someone else in another forum mentioned using the colorado slave, and maybe shimming it to get it to fit. anyone have experience with this? the colorado slave cylinder is cheaper too, plus it has a bleeder screw. something to look into.
 

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the colorado slave cylinder is cheaper too, plus it has a bleeder screw. something to look into.
I'm using a T56 TOB but my setup is unique and won't match yours. This sizing has to be exactly right. If your TOB is too long (which yours kinda sounds like). It might press on the PP even with no hydraulic pressure.

i had a hard time getting the trans to come together, had about a quarter inch of clearance between the bell housing and the motor.
I'm really not sure how you'd measure it. I imagine the guy who made my kit used a cut-away bell housing so he could see engagement
 

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luckily im using the oem toyota r154 to 1jz bell housing, so it has 2 huge cutouts in either side that i can actually fit my entire hand inside and grab all 5 fingers around the input shaft. ill be able to easilly get a measuring tool in there, if only i can find one small enough. my calipers are too long. i feel like i read somewhere that someone had to modify the solstice slave to work, ill look for that link to corroborate.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Im going to start another Ar5 swap soon for my other sportcross. If anyone has specific questions about the swap that they are still unsure of, ask now and i will be sure to get some detailed pictures or any other information.
 

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sorry to necro this thread, but ever since i've done the swap i've been having a bad vibration issue.

well, whenever i shake my driveshaft, i can kind of see the output assembly move (the entire thing that the driftmotion adapter mounts up to, dunno what it's called) and i think that's the issue.

how much movement there is normal? none? a little? and is fixing it as simple as tightening a bolt there? or do i have to take out the trans and tear it apart to replace a worn bearing or seal of some sorts?
 

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The disk that bolts to the tail of the transmission should be bolted down tight and shouldn't move at all. If you're talking about the output shaft itself, that might indicate the tailshaft bushing is worn out.

I had a vibration > 80 MPH and getting the new driveshaft re-balanced pretty much fixed it.

What kind of mount setup are you using on the rear of the transmission?
 

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I'm using OEM mounts and bushings, as well with Curran's cross member.

My drive shaft is balanced, at least they told me.

Do you know how involved replacing the bushing is?
 

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My output shaft bolt is not tight, I don't know what to torque it down to but hopefully that's the source of my vibration issue.
 
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