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@Curran - when you used the Sequioa driveshaft, did you use the whole thing or just the front section?
Probably the back 1/2 + the slip fitting. The AR-5 output shaft is really an oddball. That's the end that needs to change.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
@Curran - when you used the Sequioa driveshaft, did you use the whole thing or just the front section?
I used the whole driveshaft, however the drive shaft was shortened. The fixed end matches the IS300 differential flange. The telescoping end was converted to a custom flange to mate to the AR5 transmission.



I'll shoot him a PM. Would you happen to have the measurements for the crossmember, mainly the height from the tunnel to the lowest point of the crossmember?
I Don't have that measurement, you can find those awesome crossmembers on a popular auction site.
 

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Hi. Thanks for the great info here. I'd love to do this but the funds are about dried up for the Lexus. I was curious about the cost before I look further into this and I got a good idea from what you posted.

So I created a Google Docs spreadsheet with options A-D and auto->manual info. There's still work to be done entering part numbers and cost of parts for the auto->manual.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kGInDiM3clZjhZmWr24-jWWEY3si8b6eEMUPmiUkpm4/edit?usp=sharing

To keep this list accurate it's not open to editing unless you want to edit it @Curran let me know. All others 'File'->'Make a copy...'
 

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Hi. Thanks for the great info here. I'd love to do this but the funds are about dried up for the Lexus. I was curious about the cost before I look further into this and I got a good idea from what you posted.

So I created a Google Docs spreadsheet with options A-D and auto->manual info. There's still work to be done entering part numbers and cost of parts for the auto->manual.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kGInDiM3clZjhZmWr24-jWWEY3si8b6eEMUPmiUkpm4/edit?usp=sharing

To keep this list accurate it's not open to editing unless you want to edit it @Curran let me know. All others 'File'->'Make a copy...'
Thanks for the spreadsheet. One item, GM Trans Bolts should be $6.60, not $660.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So I created a Google Docs spreadsheet with options A-D and auto->manual info. There's still work to be done entering part numbers and cost of parts for the auto->manual.

That additional information may be helpful to some, but also can be misleading. My total all in for the auto to manual conversion with the installation illustrated was $2600 all in. So your estimate of $3984 was a bit high.
 

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That additional information may be helpful to some, but also can be misleading. My total all in for the auto to manual conversion with the installation illustrated was $2600 all in. So your estimate of $3984 was a bit high.
You're right. I've added a new tab and row for an OEM auto to manual swap.

Do you happen to have a list of part numbers or prices for the swap to include? I used the list of parts for your tutorial thread.
 

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Is it possible to just replace the AR-5/MA5 input shaft to the Toyota Supra/Chaser/Soarer R154 input shaft to have matching spline teeth and get an R154 type clutch ?

This would be an easier way to just reuse R154 clutches and parts onto the 2JZ, no ?

I would assume the tail of the AR-5/MA5 can not be converted to use the R154 type tail end, since nobody has mentioned it or attempted to do so.

It would make it easier to just get drive shafts available from DSS or DM.

In for replies, I'm looking into getting an Solstice AR-5/MA5 very soon
 

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So, i suppose it be possible to buy the jeep nv3550, then get the solstice tail housing, and jeep spline count to w55/58 diameter clutch? If so this would make the swap around 1k for me since I already bought a upgraded clutch kit for my whp.

???????
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Is it possible to just replace the AR-5/MA5 input shaft to the Toyota Supra/Chaser/Soarer R154 input shaft to have matching spline teeth and get an R154 type clutch ?

This would be an easier way to just reuse R154 clutches and parts onto the 2JZ, no ?

I would assume the tail of the AR-5/MA5 can not be converted to use the R154 type tail end, since nobody has mentioned it or attempted to do so.

It would make it easier to just get drive shafts available from DSS or DM.

In for replies, I'm looking into getting an Solstice AR-5/MA5 very soon
I made this thread to try to simplify the installation, while it may be possible to purchase and install the R154 input shaft, i see no advantage to it, when it is so simple to order a clutch disk with the correct spline count.

I have heard conflicting information on the cross compatibilty on the tail housing, once again i do not see the advantage of swapping it, either way you will need to purchase a custom drive shaft, so why not make just get one compatible with the AR5?

Basically i say why try to make the transmission AR5 into a R154? It much simpler to work with the AR5 as it is.

These questions might be better posed to the AR5 swap progress thread.

So, i suppose it be possible to buy the jeep nv3550, then get the solstice tail housing, and jeep spline count to w55/58 diameter clutch? If so this would make the swap around 1k for me since I already bought a upgraded clutch kit for my whp.

???????
From a quick google search that transmission looks similar to the AR5 from the Colorado. It will not be compatible with the JZX shifter housing so without some serious shifter extension your shifter will be under your radio. I also see no cost savings on that transmission compared to the Solstice AR5. And no other advantage compared to the solstice AR5.

The purpose of this thread is for a clear and simple instructions for a AR5 swap to a IS300. Questions like these would be better posed in there own thread, or this thread will end up like the AR5 swap progress thread, that is like 35 pages of confusion.
 

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I dont see any reason why that is neccesary unless there was some contact with the 1jz bellhousing. Probably best to ask him why he choose to do it that way. I personally do not recall any contact with the TOB and the 1jz bellhousing.
it does come in contact with the bellhousing, and no matter how i mounted it it would still contact.

i ended up cutting the tab that was making contact.

does anyone know how to bleed this setup? the land cruiser to solstice internal slave? there is no bleeder screw and i'm not getting enough pressure to fully disengage the clutch.
 
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