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Hmm I was thinking maybe the 6 puck metallic/ceramic wouldn't chatter as much with no lightweight flywheel but now I'm skeptical.. I really just want a full disc like you suggest, however I can't find any 26 spline 1.125in clutches with a 240 diameter. I'm trying to avoid going custom to avoid any significant wait times. If I understand correctly, it's the flywheel and clutch diameter that need to match, yes?



Do you think it'll cause any functionality issues? I don't mind having to clean it up a little bit, though I guess I'll see if it was really worth the money saved over oem. Didn't expect it to be as rough as it is but I'm going to tough it out at this point.

Thank you for providing that part list. It brought to my attention that I was forgetting the slave cylinder bolts and fork support bolts. Did you end up getting a new center console where the shifters comes up, or were you able to resuse the auto piece?

Also what clutch did you go with lol
Alright here's the deal. You're not the first one to buy one of those eBay bellhousings and you won't be the last. If you clean it up it should be fine. Last one I saw they had to drill the slave cylinder hole lol, looks like you got a better one. I'm having the same issue on a fake GReddy manifold, you get what you pay for. The center console is the exact same, minus the shift boot which you can get from redlinegoods (I think) or OEM. There are 2 screw holes to remove the chrome round piece. The trans tunnel on my car with a Solstice AR5 and JZX110 shifter housing needed to be cut about 2 inches forward to make room for the breather. You might just want to do that anyway because that shifter looks a little big. I then covered it up with aluminum duct tape and shoved a bunch of rags to dampen the sound a bit. I went with the DriftMotion stage 3.5 Kevlar variant, along with their chrome moly flywheel. The clutch kit comes with an OEM pressure plate and it really does feel great. I'm very impressed so far. I also used ARP hardware and their custom high grade pressure plate bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Alright here's the deal. You're not the first one to buy one of those eBay bellhousings and you won't be the last. If you clean it up it should be fine. Last one I saw they had to drill the slave cylinder hole lol, looks like you got a better one. I'm having the same issue on a fake GReddy manifold, you get what you pay for. The center console is the exact same, minus the shift boot which you can get from redlinegoods (I think) or OEM. There are 2 screw holes to remove the chrome round piece. The trans tunnel on my car with a Solstice AR5 and JZX110 shifter housing needed to be cut about 2 inches forward to make room for the breather. You might just want to do that anyway because that shifter looks a little big. I then covered it up with aluminum duct tape and shoved a bunch of rags to dampen the sound a bit. I went with the DriftMotion stage 3.5 Kevlar variant, along with their chrome moly flywheel. The clutch kit comes with an OEM pressure plate and it really does feel great. I'm very impressed so far. I also used ARP hardware and their custom high grade pressure plate bolts.
Okay this is good to hear.. I really do appreciate the thorough response man it helps a lot. Hopefully you get your manifold squared away.

I'm expecting to have to cut back my trans tunnel anyways to avoid issues with the driveline angle. I've yet to get a shift boot, I'm debating crafting one.

Also good to hear that your experience with Driftmotion's clutch has been satisfactory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Quick update. I've sourced nearly every part besides a few:

both inspection cover gaskets
inspection cover bolts
manual brake pedal pad

How important are the inspection cover gaskets? Can I get away without using them? And for the inspection cover bolts, would I be able to find an alternative at Lowes are some place similar?

Lastly, could I use a Toyota brake pad such as this: GENUINE TOYOTA 4RUNNER CAMRY LEXUS SC300 BRAKE CLUTCH PEDAL PAD OEM 31321-14020 | eBay . I'm going to be cutting my auto brake pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Shift fork was discontinued. What shift fork do the R154 guys use? I can't find 31204-14021 anywhere.

Edit: I confirmed with Aaron at Driftmotion that the 31204-14031 will work. It is the fork for 7MGTE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Update:

Clutch pedal and master cylinder installed. I'm worried about the master cylinder boot during pedal travel.. Should it shift/move every time the clutch is used? Trying to avoid premature wear.


I could grease it but then it may attract grime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I've made some slow (but good) progress. I'm about ready to take the car apart but wanted clarification/reinforcement on a couple of things.

1. Can I reuse the bellhousing to engine bolts?

2. How do I adjust the shifter alignment bolts? Is that just to prevent one from slamming the shifter out of its bounds? I think I'm just gonna call the guys who made it tomorrow.

Motor vehicle Rim Crankset Bicycle part Auto part


Got the input shaft trimmed with a $10 angle grinder.

Automotive tire Rim Bumper Nickel Tool


Bellhousing lines up perfectly fine with dowel pins from what I can tell.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Locking hubs Alloy wheel


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior Machine


Got the transmission cleaned fairly well. I didn't want to go overboard sanding/polishing it to match the bellhousing and shifter as I've been busy enough. Tailhousing was removed and break cleaned well - I didn't go any deeper than that so hopefully it will suffice.

At this point I'm pretty much ready, just not looking forward to having the car down for awhile if anything unexpected occurs (which I'm planning on happening lol).
 

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I reused my bellhousing bolts from my auto with success. I also suggest you cut the trans tunnel before the transmission is in. To answer your second question I believe you have that correct, just adjust a little bit past when it's in gear to account for the extra force it gets when shifting hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I reused my bellhousing bolts from my auto with success. I also suggest you cut the trans tunnel before the transmission is in. To answer your second question I believe you have that correct, just adjust a little bit past when it's in gear to account for the extra force it gets when shifting hard.
Good to hear I can reuse the bellhousing bolts. I will definitely be cutting the transmission tunnel, that shifter looks huge when mounted lol.

For the shifter I wonder if I can get some rubber/plastic caps to put on the adjustment screws to prevent any notching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Can I drop the transmission without removing any part of the exhaust? The rust is so bad under there that its fused as one piece. I broke the head off of the lower bolt securing the y pipe. The o2 sensor won't even budge with an o2 socket and 650ft/lbs impact wrench.

If I have to remove the exhaust I'll be replacing most of the exhaust.

It's tight but I think the bellhousing will clear.
 

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As long as you can move the transmission around the clutch and pressure plate that's going to poke off of the motor along with snaking the case around the exhaust then yes. Both transmissions are roughly the same size. I haven't had a stock exhaust on my car in years so I totally forget how the OEM routing goes.
 
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