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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. I went to a junkyard this past weekend to see if there was anything worth grabbing. Of the 8 or so Chevy Colorados they had, the very last one I looked at was both a manual and rwd, however it's from 2008. Is the manual in the 08 the same as the 05 and 06? I looked on GM and it was listed for 04-12 so I'm pretty sure. I'm going to go back this weekend and pull it (hopefully it's still there). They want $250 for it. On an unrelated note, there was a wrecked sport design with perfect tail lights that I was able to snag for $70. I noticed the car had nearly brand new godspeed coilovers so I may grab those as well if I can get the full set for under $200 or so. I already have eibach springs with koni yellows so the coilovers would just be a backup. I'm really just stoked for this transmission though I hope this works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I'm not sure what I'm going to do for the driveshaft yet. I figured I would decide when I have the transmission in possession. As for the shifter, I understand I'll need an extension and so I was thinking of getting this:

FABbot Colorado AR5 Remote Shifter (fabbotfab.com)

This'll move the shifter 5.6 +- 1.7 inches which I think'll put me in the optimal shifter range. It also looks fairly low profile so I'm hoping I won't have to trim anything.

I haven't decided what I'll do for the mount either. There's an option on eBay for the solstice ar5 but I'm not sure how that would translate. I think I recall reading of using spacers with the stock crossmember but haven't given it much thought..

These are my known unknowns at the moment. Is it a bad idea to plan to diagnose driveshaft and cross member fitment post transmission purchase? I figure if either proves to hinder the swap unrealistic, I could always flip the transmission on eBay and walk away financially unscathed (in theory).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Mode of transport Combat vehicle


Transmission acquired.

Fortunately I had one of my friends there helping me pull it. Assuming that I can get the extended shifter without hassle (currently on preorder), I think it would be cheaper to keep the tailshaft on it. I can't find an 05-06 solstice ar5 tailshaft anywhere used, so I'd likely have to find the part number and get it new from GM if possible. I reached out to the guys in the link above however to ask about future availability for the shifter.

Otherwise the internals looked clean from what I could tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does anybody know the exact length from where the bellhousing connects to the engine to where the shifter is supposed sit for our cars?

What about the length of a jz r154 bellhousing?

I know this information has to be out there but I can't find it.

Ive been communicating with the guy who makes the solstice ar5 mounts and he said it should fit without modification, otherwise Ill have to drill new holes (which Im not opposed to).

I’m likely going to get a local driveshaft shop to modify the stock driveshaft to match the output of the ar5.

Also, Im going to go with a r154 movement setup with the xcessive clutch pedal and master cylinder combo.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’ve got my GTE/AR5 out of my car and in the garage. I can grab those measurements for you tomorrow. I’m interested in seeing this documented and completed.
Thanks man! I'm hoping to get my shifter situation finalized soon so I can get the ball rolling on sourcing all the other parts.
 

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OK man so the bell housing is about 6.5” from the mating surface of engine to mating surface of trans.

From the engine/bell housing mating surface to the middle of the shifter extension it’s 29.5”. That’s using a Verossa (I think?) R154 shifter housing. It centers and aligns the shifter perfect. There was no trimming or adapting needed - but my car was a factory 5MT car.

If you get the driveshaft out of the Colorado, a shop may be able to marry it to your existing IS300 shaft. When you use the R154 clutch movement set up, you will need the R154 front bearing retainer, along with all the other stuff - slave cyl, fork, etc.

I think I’m gonna go with a Tilton hydraulic TOB and maybe a Grannas/McLeod twin. I want it to be sprung though, and I dont see that as an option. I’m over the heavyass ACT single I have. I did like the GM Hydraulic TOB though.
 

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I think I’m gonna go with a Tilton hydraulic TOB and maybe a Grannas/McLeod twin. I want it to be sprung though, and I dont see that as an option.
I bought the McLeod RXT twin from Grannas. Very pleased with streetability. Yes, you can get it to chatter just a little if you ride the clutch during engagement - but NOT bad. And, it's totally avoidable if you are proficient at driving a manual trans and don't dilly-dally getting the clutch engaged.

Also, I'm sure my application was worse than usual because I have the close-ratio T56 magnum with 2.66:1 first gear...coupled with a 3.73 rear gear - the car got going from a stop like a 230mph Le Mans car with a 4 spd transmission (very tall gearing).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK man so the bell housing is about 6.5” from the mating surface of engine to mating surface of trans.

From the engine/bell housing mating surface to the middle of the shifter extension it’s 29.5”. That’s using a Verossa (I think?) R154 shifter housing. It centers and aligns the shifter perfect. There was no trimming or adapting needed - but my car was a factory 5MT car.

If you get the driveshaft out of the Colorado, a shop may be able to marry it to your existing IS300 shaft. When you use the R154 clutch movement set up, you will need the R154 front bearing retainer, along with all the other stuff - slave cyl, fork, etc.

I think I’m gonna go with a Tilton hydraulic TOB and maybe a Grannas/McLeod twin. I want it to be sprung though, and I dont see that as an option. I’m over the heavyass ACT single I have. I did like the GM Hydraulic TOB though.
Thank you so much Kris this helps a lot. The transmission isn't stored with me currently, so I'll have to go back and take measurements sometime later this week.

I've been wondering about whether I'll need to trim or not. The shifter extension looks to be fairly low profile so I'm hoping not even with my auto trans tunnel, but I might just have to wait and see. The guys who make the shifter extension got back to me and said it would be 1.5-2 week wait on it, so I'll order it once I confirm its compatibility.

As for the driveshaft, Im going to call some shops to learn more about how exactly they’ll go about the modification. Im probably going to have to go back and grab that Colorado driveshaft.

I still have a lot to learn and figure out but I feel confident I can pull this off. I'm referencing mostly Curran's Ar5 swap thread and Lo21's R154 2001 Manual swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I'm thinking about options for the tunnel cover. I found this:

Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Tunnel Cover for IS300 – Grannas Racing

The shifter I'm looking at is fairly low profile (as mentioned plenty of times lol), so I'm wondering if I'll actually have to cut back part of the auto tunnel cover. But regardless, it's ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to either buy the product above or weld in a manual tunnel cover, right? Or I guess I could attempt to fabricate something of my own.

In this thread R154 ? THE Ultimate Auto to Manual Swap Info Thread | Lexus IS Forum (my.is) which I have been referencing religiously, it looks like he didn't need to cut back the tunnel cover at all and used sheet metal to replace where the auto shifter assembly sat. Since the R154 and AR5 are so similar I wonder if I could get away with that.

Heading back to obtain transmission measurements tomorrow.

Edit: Also, in that thread I mentioned above, Lo21 got a new center console (58804-53011-c0) but I was wondering if that was really necessary as some places are listing that part number for both the automatic and manual versions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Can I use any R154 clutch fork? People say use 31204-14021, however I can find 31204-14031 for much cheaper. Both clutch forks are for use in r154-jz applications. Anyone know the difference?

31204-14021 is discontinued with many suppliers.

Edit: I found that 31204-14021 is used for non-turbo Supras and 31204-14031 is for turbo Supras. I wonder if either will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Quick question: Can I reuse the bolts securing the auto bellhousing to the engine for the r154 bellhousing?

Also, do I need the shift fork boot?

I've ordered the shifter and already received an R154 jz bellhousing. I'm waiting to finalize all the small parts for one grand purchase off Amayama.

I haven't been updating this thread as I should. Thanks to Kris OK, I was able to determine the shifter position with the extender to be half an inch farther from the dash than OEM. I found a reputable driveshaft shop who I'm thinking of going to. Not many unknowns left thus far. I'm still undecided for the clutch but am going OEM for the pressure plate and flywheel. I'm thinking of just using scrap metal to cover where the auto trans tunnel opening is.

Non-OEM bellhousing if anyone has been debating getting one off eBay:

Wood Auto part Personal protective equipment Metal Outdoor shoe


Definitely needs to be sanded/cleaned up. I haven't tested fitment yet I've been too busy but I'll update soon. Debating painting or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wood Rectangle Tool Metal Font


The shifter came in a few days ago. It looks really nice in hand. Anything to worry over if I got a Driftmotion 6 puck sprung clutch? Would it be too aggressive for daily driving with an oem R154 pressure plate and flywheel?
 

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Anything to worry over if I got a Driftmotion 6 puck sprung clutch? Would it be too aggressive for daily driving with an oem R154 pressure plate and flywheel?
I bought a built car with turbo and R154 already installed. The clutch felt absolutely horrid. Engagement was rough and chattery. Also the trans didn't go into 4th correctly - so I took it all apart. Flywheel was a lightweight aluminum driftmotion deal with replaceable steel friction insert. It didn't look too bad but I somehow convinced myself a fresh clutch would cure the terrible engagement. I also replaced the steel friction insert, so the whole thing was fresh.

I spoke with the main dude @ Driftmotion and for a ~500whp daily driver, he recommended the stage 3.5 puck clutch. I don't mean to be too critical of Driftmotion because I hold them in rather high regard (and they've been very helpful), but the chatter and terrible engagement was not improved at all. In fairness, with a bunch of practice, I was able to deal with it - but I absolutely hated it. To be clear, I'm not an amateur at driving manual transmissions...

I'm not sure to what extent the problem was exacerbated by the lightweight flywheel - but I've spoken to numerous people since that basically say "yeah, puck clutches chatter and have rough engagement"... So I'd never buy another.

Now, I have a McCleod RXT twin and steel flywheel. Pedal is light and feels great. It has a touch of chatter if you dilly-dally engaging it - but I don't mind daily driving it at all.

Bottom line, I would not recommend a puck-style clutch for a car you want to drive nice.
 

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Quick question: Can I reuse the bolts securing the auto bellhousing to the engine for the r154 bellhousing?

Also, do I need the shift fork boot?

I've ordered the shifter and already received an R154 jz bellhousing. I'm waiting to finalize all the small parts for one grand purchase off Amayama.

I haven't been updating this thread as I should. Thanks to Kris OK, I was able to determine the shifter position with the extender to be half an inch farther from the dash than OEM. I found a reputable driveshaft shop who I'm thinking of going to. Not many unknowns left thus far. I'm still undecided for the clutch but am going OEM for the pressure plate and flywheel. I'm thinking of just using scrap metal to cover where the auto trans tunnel opening is.

Non-OEM bellhousing if anyone has been debating getting one off eBay:



Definitely needs to be sanded/cleaned up. I haven't tested fitment yet I've been too busy but I'll update soon. Debating painting or not.
Fitment is going to be pretty bad dude. The OEM one I bought off Amayama Trading Co. was tight as is and there's a lot of extra casting around the inside of yours so it'll need some grinding. I believe there's a small lip on the transmission for it to sit in place properly. I see you're wondering about what parts to get, here's a list of exactly what is in my car:

Toyota 31111-14111 - HOUSING, CLUTCH
Toyota 31121-22030 - COVER, CLUTCH HOUSING, NO.1
Toyota 31123-14020 - COVER, CLUTCH HOUSING, NO.2
Toyota 31204-14031 - FORK ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE;FORK SUB-ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
Toyota 31231-14040 - HUB, CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
Toyota 31234-14030 - SPRING, RELEASE FORK SUPPORT
Toyota 31236-14020 - SUPPORT, RELEASE FORK
Toyota 31264-14040 - SPRING, CLUTCH THRUST CONE
Toyota 33131-35032 - RETAINER, BEARING, FRONT(MTM)
Toyota 33570-22150 - RETAINER SUB-ASSY, CONTROL SHIFT LEVER (FOR FLOOR SHIFT) << You already have a shifter it seems.
Toyota 90119-08604 - BOLT << x2 For fork support
Toyota 90201-45023 - WASHER, PLATE (FOR CLUTCH THRUST CONE SPRING)
Toyota 90201-71001 - WASHER, PLATE (FOR CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING)
Toyota 90206-72001 - WASHER, WAVE (FOR CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING)
Toyota 90311-32012 - SEAL, OIL (FOR TRANSMISSION FRONT BEARING RETAINER)
Toyota 90363-45012 - BEARING, BALL (FOR CLUTCH RELEASE HUB)
Toyota 96152-00450 - RING, SNAP
Toyota 90520-67001 - RING, SHAFT SNAP (FOR CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING) << I have a DIY for this if you like using improper tools.
Hino 91611-60822 - BOLT << x2 For slave

This list does not include the R154 slave cylinder, pressure plate, flywheel pressure plate bolts or flywheel bolts, because I got mine from DriftMotion. Everything here is for the clutch action and bellhousing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I bought a built car with turbo and R154 already installed. The clutch felt absolutely horrid. Engagement was rough and chattery. Also the trans didn't go into 4th correctly - so I took it all apart. Flywheel was a lightweight aluminum driftmotion deal with replaceable steel friction insert. It didn't look too bad but I somehow convinced myself a fresh clutch would cure the terrible engagement. I also replaced the steel friction insert, so the whole thing was fresh.

I spoke with the main dude @ Driftmotion and for a ~500whp daily driver, he recommended the stage 3.5 puck clutch. I don't mean to be too critical of Driftmotion because I hold them in rather high regard (and they've been very helpful), but the chatter and terrible engagement was not improved at all. In fairness, with a bunch of practice, I was able to deal with it - but I absolutely hated it. To be clear, I'm not an amateur at driving manual transmissions...

I'm not sure to what extent the problem was exacerbated by the lightweight flywheel - but I've spoken to numerous people since that basically say "yeah, puck clutches chatter and have rough engagement"... So I'd never buy another.

Now, I have a McCleod RXT twin and steel flywheel. Pedal is light and feels great. It has a touch of chatter if you dilly-dally engaging it - but I don't mind daily driving it at all.

Bottom line, I would not recommend a puck-style clutch for a car you want to drive nice.

Hmm I was thinking maybe the 6 puck metallic/ceramic wouldn't chatter as much with no lightweight flywheel but now I'm skeptical.. I really just want a full disc like you suggest, however I can't find any 26 spline 1.125in clutches with a 240 diameter. I'm trying to avoid going custom to avoid any significant wait times. If I understand correctly, it's the flywheel and clutch diameter that need to match, yes?

Fitment is going to be pretty bad dude. The OEM one I bought off Amayama Trading Co. was tight as is and there's a lot of extra casting around the inside of yours so it'll need some grinding. I believe there's a small lip on the transmission for it to sit in place properly. I see you're wondering about what parts to get, here's a list of exactly what is in my car:

Toyota 31111-14111 - HOUSING, CLUTCH
Toyota 31121-22030 - COVER, CLUTCH HOUSING, NO.1
Toyota 31123-14020 - COVER, CLUTCH HOUSING, NO.2
Toyota 31204-14031 - FORK ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE;FORK SUB-ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
Toyota 31231-14040 - HUB, CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
Toyota 31234-14030 - SPRING, RELEASE FORK SUPPORT
Toyota 31236-14020 - SUPPORT, RELEASE FORK
Toyota 31264-14040 - SPRING, CLUTCH THRUST CONE
Toyota 33131-35032 - RETAINER, BEARING, FRONT(MTM)
Toyota 33570-22150 - RETAINER SUB-ASSY, CONTROL SHIFT LEVER (FOR FLOOR SHIFT) << You already have a shifter it seems.
Toyota 90119-08604 - BOLT << x2 For fork support
Toyota 90201-45023 - WASHER, PLATE (FOR CLUTCH THRUST CONE SPRING)
Toyota 90201-71001 - WASHER, PLATE (FOR CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING)
Toyota 90206-72001 - WASHER, WAVE (FOR CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING)
Toyota 90311-32012 - SEAL, OIL (FOR TRANSMISSION FRONT BEARING RETAINER)
Toyota 90363-45012 - BEARING, BALL (FOR CLUTCH RELEASE HUB)
Toyota 96152-00450 - RING, SNAP
Toyota 90520-67001 - RING, SHAFT SNAP (FOR CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING) << I have a DIY for this if you like using improper tools.
Hino 91611-60822 - BOLT << x2 For slave

This list does not include the R154 slave cylinder, pressure plate, flywheel pressure plate bolts or flywheel bolts, because I got mine from DriftMotion. Everything here is for the clutch action and bellhousing.
Do you think it'll cause any functionality issues? I don't mind having to clean it up a little bit, though I guess I'll see if it was really worth the money saved over oem. Didn't expect it to be as rough as it is but I'm going to tough it out at this point.

Thank you for providing that part list. It brought to my attention that I was forgetting the slave cylinder bolts and fork support bolts. Did you end up getting a new center console where the shifters comes up, or were you able to resuse the auto piece?

Also what clutch did you go with lol
 
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