Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My normal early morning routine:

1) get into car
2) start car
3) hit traction control off
4) shift into M
5) button down to "2"
6) take off parking brake
7) go!

Has anyone else had a problem on cold mornings with step 5 (shifting to "2" in M mode)??? I've had it be unwilling to go below "3" on three occasions... all on fairly cool mornings (40-50 degrees). If I floor it the car will automatically downshift as normal but rather abruptly/harshly... once the car's gone a few blocks it will go into "2"...

Anyone else experience this?

Annie
Y2K S2K
Y2K+1 IS300
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,991 Posts
I notice that my brother's C230 also had a very rough shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 on a cold morning. Don't know why though.
I guess you just need to warm up the car before all the electronics will work properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,523 Posts
The fluid may need to be warmed up as well.

Originally posted by Daniel:
I notice that my brother's C230 also had a very rough shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 on a cold morning. Don't know why though.
I guess you just need to warm up the car before all the electronics will work properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,281 Posts
when tranny temps are low gear selection may be limited and/or shifting may be rough

just so u know

post quickly if u want to say anything else because this thread will be locked or deleted very soon

btw don't e-shift when cold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
what you should od when warming up your car is start it and watch the temp gauge, wait until that gauge hits operating temperature and it will be much better for the car =)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Temperature gauge only indicates the coolant temperature, and does not reflect the temperature of engine oils and tranny oils.

The best thing to do is to drive gently for at least 15-20 minutes to ensure ALL fluids are at normal operating temperatures.....

That's why there are engine oil temperature gauges and transmission oil temperature gauges.....

Fluids when cold tend to flow more difficult. Auto trannies rely on hydraulic pressure for proper gear shifts and misc. functions. If fluid in there is more reluctant to flow, then things don't work like they're supposed to, and hence causes rough shifts and stuff. It may also link to pre-mature wear on parts.......

As far as engine oil is concerned, there are anti-wear chemicals added in and won't be effective until upto normal operating temperature......which means that driving hard when engine oil not fully warmed up will cause more wear on engine parts.....


My 2 cents


[This message has been edited by dude (edited September 25, 2000).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
i stnad corrected


the worst part of all this is, whenever i drive i never drive for longer than 10-20 minutes at a time, everwheri need to go is real close by :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Actually short trips on cars are the worst.....exactly the reasons I mentioned above.....

So I would suggest you to try and drive it as gently as possible.......

However, just 2 short trips should have all the fluids warmed up, so not to worry....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,281 Posts
Originally posted by dude:
Temperature gauge only indicates the coolant temperature, and does not reflect the temperature of engine oils and tranny oils.

The best thing to do is to drive gently for at least 15-20 minutes to ensure ALL fluids are at normal operating temperatures.....

That's why there are engine oil temperature gauges and transmission oil temperature gauges.....

Fluids when cold tend to flow more difficult. Auto trannies rely on hydraulic pressure for proper gear shifts and misc. functions. If fluid in there is more reluctant to flow, then things don't work like they're supposed to, and hence causes rough shifts and stuff. It may also link to pre-mature wear on parts.......

As far as engine oil is concerned, there are anti-wear chemicals added in and won't be effective until upto normal operating temperature......which means that driving hard when engine oil not fully warmed up will cause more wear on engine parts.....


My 2 cents


[This message has been edited by dude (edited September 25, 2000).]
dude is right...engine coolant temp does not equal tranny temp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,168 Posts
I read that the LS400 sets the redline at 4000rpm until it is properly warmed up...maybe the IS300 is trying to go easy too. So it doesn't want to be put into lower gears cuz then it gets to its real redline faster...just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,991 Posts
You mean BMW actually can limit you from shifting into certain gears on the M3 and M5 if the car is not warmed up yet? Or do you mean they limit the rpm?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
they limit the rpm...there's a little light that is at 4500 rpm when you start th car, and as the engine warms up it goes back to 6900 or whatever the redline is...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,476 Posts
Originally posted by wazzup:
excuse my ignorance,
but why would we want to start the car moving from a complete stop in 2nd gear?
When I had my GS400 the E-shift would not shift below 3rd gear (it made a beeping noise that signified the engine was cold) and would be able to shift to 2nd gear once the engine temperature was between the normal operating temperature and Cold.... Also....when you're at a dead stop in E-shift mode and the display read's 2nd gear, it's realy in first gear....You cannot control 2nd to first and first to 2nd through the e-shift....only 2nd on up....
Eric....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the responses - I do know it's better to let the car warm up more, but I figured this was a little odd since it's not that cold out in Seattle! If it gets colder here this winter I will let it warm up more... I figured 50 degrees was tolerable to expect this car to perform decently, oh well. I've driven other automatics and never had an issue like this. That's why I figured I'd ask...

As for the S2K, I didn't total it, no where near that. A local race shop in coordination with a body shop spent two and a half weeks getting the car functional so we could compete with it at Nationals (2nd place AGAIN! wait till next year...) and once we got back last week it went to the bodyshop. Getting a new rear quarter panel and bumper cover. Will be as good as new in about two weeks.

And speaking of the S2K, it's got a similar feature when the engine is cold - it will not let you accelerate into VTEC until the car is warm - it actually acts like a fuel cut off about 5000rpm or so. This is different from other VTEC cars (I've had 2 Type R's, a GSR, and a Civic Si) - all of those simply don't let VTEC work but allow you to accelerate to redline like it was a non-VTEC car. Believe me, it almost sent me through the windshield the first time it happened since I wasn't expecting it...

Annie
Y2K S2K
Y2K+1 IS300
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top