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Are there any cold air intakes for the is350? I've been looking around for awhile while now but i can only find short rams. If there are any CAI's, can anyone tell me where I can get one? and which is the best?
 

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ARC supposedly sells a good cold air system, but it's insanely priced (I mean INSANELY priced, 4-8 times more expensive than most other intake systems).

Other than that nothing available will give you any more gains than the Joe Z intake pipe with stock airbox, it'll just cost more.
 

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K&N claims 11.27 @5800

Every manufacturer will claim numbers but you need to take them with a grain of salt. You need to pick the intake that fits your budget. Knightshade has the right idea. Personally, i went with the K&N because I had the money and have always trusted K&N parts on every vehicle I have ever owned.
 

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I don't recall anyone who wasn't trying to sell you the intake they themselves make showing more than about 5 hp gain for any intake on an IS350... but dyno testing on intakes is kinda tricky since they're generally done with the hood open, the vehicle standing still, and fans blowing over the intake.
 

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the injen intake gave me 8hp and 10tq just the intake..
No, it didn't.

The -stock- intake provides more air than the engine can use. There might be a couple hp to pick up from a smoother intake path (how the Joe Z gains anything) but no way you gain that much from a hot air intake with an open element. Especially not on a 250.

I could certainly see some unscientific testing that makes it look that way though.
 

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i have the dyno results to prove it! not with me right now but i do
What methodology did you you use to conduct your various before and after tests, controlling for all the various factors, across what period of time including letting the ECU relearn?

Or did you just swap the part and dyno it, which doesn't prove anything except you spent like $300 to make your car louder.

(all of which ignores how useless a standing-still with your hood raised dyno test really is for an intake system, but that's besides the point
 

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well i had the fujita intake for about a month before i went to the dyno, then i swaped it out for the injen intake, i waited another month then i went to the dyno and thats when i saw the hp n tq increase plus that day it was hot so i was impressed.. anymore questions?
 

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well i had the fujita intake for about a month before i went to the dyno, then i swaped it out for the injen intake, i waited another month then i went to the dyno and thats when i saw the hp n tq increase plus that day it was hot so i was impressed.. anymore questions?
So you dynoed a car with one aftermarket intake, then a month later dynoed it with a different aftermarket intake, and you're convinced you gained power over stock which you appear to have not dynoed at all?
 

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an intake is not gona give you much of a gain that you can feel 5-10 this is probably all at the crank. intake is in all just for a good engine sound when you rev high. yeah it might give you gains but you are not likely going to feel a difference at all. i have fujita and i like it.
 

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No, it didn't.

The -stock- intake provides more air than the engine can use. There might be a couple hp to pick up from a smoother intake path (how the Joe Z gains anything) but no way you gain that much from a hot air intake with an open element. Especially not on a 250.

I could certainly see some unscientific testing that makes it look that way though.
I agree. the stock setup is a ram air set-up, no cold air can compete with that. just get a drop in K&N, blitz, HKS filter (un-oiled-to save the MAF). the only way to really improve on the stock set-up is a Joe-Z or anything that smoothes out the OEM airways.

My last car was a TDI jetta. and there were several different dynos done, and the OEM airbox had more airflow-there's a TDI golf that is like ranked 4th on the rally circuit (only diesel, and only stock chassis in his class), and still uses the OEM airbox (www.kermatdi.com). All the dynos you see are on a standard dyno. it may show a little increase, but remember that is with no air movement. The OEM stuff was designed to perform with the car moving, the other stuff wasn't.
 
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