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Everyone can thank gavron1 for putting this together. If anyone else has any other suggestions or tips, feel free to add them here.


Courtesy of gavron1

Ok here is a little something I put together to help with the basics of removing and installing coilovers or springs. These are the steps I used to remove the factory shock/spring setups and install my coilovers. If any of you want to add or change things posted in here please feel free to let me know. This process worked well for me, but there are always different/better approaches to the same job. Hopefully you will be able to use some of this information to help with your coilover or spring install. I would start with the rear left and then rear right then the fronts.
Tool List... Jack & stands, 10,14,mm socket/wrenches, 3/4" socket/wrench, Flat blade screwdriver, Soft face mallet/hammer
1. Jack the car. A floor jack would be the preferred method for getting the entire rear off the ground at once. Place the jack on the rear transmission case for a central jacking point. See Photo1. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install1.jpg To be safe use jack stands on the left and right side forward of the rear wheels at the jack points. (Just in case the jack gives out)
2. Remove the wheels for access to the suspension
3. Disconnect the rear sway bar on both left and right sides 14mm socket. See Photo2. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install2.jpg
4. Next disconnect the headlight sensor on the rear left side. 10mm. NOTE: Disconnect it at the upper link bolt NOT the sliding adjustment bolt. (This will keep all the setting the same when you put it all back together) see Photo3. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install3.jpg
5. Now you can remove the control arm attach bolt ¾” (I think) See Photo4. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install4.jpg Then remove the lower shock strut bolt ¾”. See Photo5. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install5.jpg This should allow the control arm to drop out of the way.
6. Remove the 2 bolts that are holding the shock strut in place inside the fender well. See Photo6. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install6.jpg
7. Finally you need to get the 3 nuts holding the upper shock strut in place loose. You will need to pull the inside trunk liner back to access them. To do this just use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry out the plastic scrivits (push screws). Now you can get to the nuts on the top of the shock strut 14mm. Once these nuts are removed the shock strut should come right out.
8. Do those steps for both sides.
9. Now for those of you installing just springs disassemble the factory assembly using the spring compressor. Once you have the new springs installed on the shock assembly just reverse the previous steps to go back together.
10. Now for the fronts. Do both sides together. This way you don’t have to disconnect the sway bar numerous times.
11. Again remove the wheels for access.
12. Disconnect the sway bar on both sides. See Photo7. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install7.jpg
13. Disconnect the sensor on the left front side. Lower Bolt See Photo8. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install8.jpg
14. Take apart the upper joint of what I am considering the A arm. Remove the cotter pin and nut. You may need a soft face hammer or use a piece of wood to put on the end of the bolt while you tap it apart. See Photo9. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install9.jpg
15. Next remove the lower strut attach bolt. See Photo10. http://slater4.homestead.com/files/install10.jpg
16. Open the hood to gain access to the upper strut attach points. Remove the nuts and out comes the strut.
17. Reverse the process to go back together.
This install is about a 4 hour job for you and a friend. My recomendations are to go slow look things over real well before removing parts. That will help when it is time to put things back together. As far as the alignment goes I would recomend getting one done after driving the car for a week or two, this allows the springs to settle.



Courtesy of Vman
(Additional) Tools needed:
A good metric socket set ranging from 10mm-24mm
A sharpie marker
Jack stands
Floor jack
Spring Compressor tool
Hammer
Small metal driver to help remove bolts
Small,thin wrench to hold front HID sensor bolt
Thin screwdriver
Allen wrench set for rear shocks
17mm Open-end or adjustable wrench


On The REARS:

1A. I highly recommend using the Jack stands for overall stability since you'll be under the car. I also used a small block of wood on top of the jack to protect the differential casing.

2A. Be sure to mark a short line from the shock housing to the shock itself to aid in reassembly so that your lower shock mount will be at the proper rotation. There is no moving it when the coil spring is assembled and not compressed!

5A. Loosen Control Arm Bolt on the nut/washer side (the back)
5B. Loosen Lower Shock Bolt on the BOLT head side (the back)... nut is a friction lock-nut type

6A. Loosen , but do not fully remove the two 12mm bolts inside the fender well. This will keep the shock assembly from falling down and yanking your brake or other line when you are inside the trunk and unable to stop it! You can also utilize these loose bolts when you reassemble.

9A. You'll need an allen (hex) key wrench for the top of the shock rod bolt and an open-type 17mm or adjustable wrench to remove the nut on top of the shock.
9B. For spring install only, make sure your prior marks line up. Allow for some spinning when you tighten up the shock rod bolt (on top) while the springs are still compressed.
9C. Be sure to re-check alignment as you release the springs. Also be sure bottom of spring rests inside the 2 or 3 'lips' and the end of the spring rests in the detent place.

On The FRONTS:

10A. Again, I highly recommend jacking up the car from the front (tie-downs) and using your jack stands on the sides. This frees up your jack for later.

13A. The lower sensor bolt needs to be held with the thin,small wrench (forgot size) while you unscrew the 10mm nut holding it.
13B. For safety, I removed the ABS? sensor held by the 10mm bolt on the back of the wheel housing ....NOT the BRAKE LINE!
13C. Remove the ABS? sensor wire 10mm bolt from its bracket on the shock.

14A. To prevent damage to your joints and to prevent stressing your brake hoses (especially the right front) ,I used my floor jack under the front control arm below the lower shock mount. Apply a little lift to the arm before banging loose the upper A arm.

15A. From the nut side. I left the bolt in and loosened the three 12mm nuts holding the shock assembly in the engine bay. I then lowered the whole assembly using the jack and removed the shock bolt.
15B. After removing the shock, loosely re-attach the A-arm assembly on the passenger side with the nut, as the brake hose will be very stressed.

16A. For springs only, mark the shock body and the rubber boot for help in alignment.
16B. Also note the tab location on the mount plate and the direction of the arrows on the rubber gasket.
16C. On re-assembly,remember to make sure the spring is inside the lips and the end fits in the detent.

17A. Use the floor jack to lift the control arm ,shock assembly and A-arm assembly . I did the shock assembly first, placing the 3 top bolts thru the holes then sliding in the shock bolt and lifting it to press it slightly against the top till you tighten the upper bolts, then tighten the lower bolt.
17B. Use the Jack again to re-assemble the A-arm assembly.

18. Change Your SIG.!



Courtesy of chimera_57
I recently did a spring & shock install myself. Thanks Gavin for the tips, I probably wouldn't have given it a try without your tip sheet!

I wanted to add a couple more tips. On the fronts, I did my install without removing that upper A-arm bolt. Instead, you can remove the lower shock mounting point completely. Remove the nut that attaches the sway bar mount, then remove a second smaller bolt that is directly behind the shock. With the lower shock bolt removed, you can actually completely remove the shock mount. You can then slide the shock & spring assembly out from the upper A-arm towards the front of the car. You should disconnect the ABS brake wire, but it really does slip right out.

Two other comments, I agree that you should check and mark your shock alignment on the shock/spring assembly. If you get the shock mounted incorrectly, you cannot turn it after the spring is uncompressed. Also, on the rears, I would comment that re-attaching that lower control arm bolt can be really tough, especially if you are doing this job by yourself. Having an extra set of hands for that part of the re-assembly would definitely make the job easier.

Again thanks for the tips, it was a lot of work, but wrenching on your own car is pretty satisfying!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I don't really recommend loosening the A Arm Bolt if you don't have to. You can simply turn the hub in the direction that you're working. It will give you plenty of room to slide the Shock Assembly out. You just have to be careful of the ABS line.

There's a little trick to lining the top up part in the front. You should see an R and an L on the top piece with the three bolts. Once you have those on the appropriate sides, then line up the middle bolt with shock. then you don't have to worry about alignment. This was something I figured out after my 3rd install.

If you know someone that has an air gun, I highly recommend using it. It's makes things so much easier. You don't have have to tighten any of the bolts until you have everything lined up. It will allow you the ability to move the shock around. After you have it all lined up, tighten the bolts down.
 

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I would like to add another tip to this install. I followed the steps and was able to overcome all the problems I had except removing the A-arm bolt. I hammered away but that bolt just will not come out. I also tried removing the lower shock mount completely but that sway bar mount nut is hard to get to with my breaker bar so I couldn't do it either. But I figured out how to take the shock assembly out without doing either. For the front right I just turned my wheels all the way to the right, and with some manuevering I was able to slip the lower strut out toward the front of the car. For the left side I turned the wheels all the way left and it worked out the same way. The aftermarket coilover was not a problem to put back in because it's smaller than stock. Hope this tip will save members some work. By the way I'd like to thank simpdaddy for the instructions otherwise I probably wouldn't risk trying this install myself. :D
 

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I just read this article
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0103tur_grip/
And they said "When installing the rear coil-overs, the guys at Mullinax told us the key was to first tighten the lower bolt, the three upper bolts second and the middle bolts third. Not following this order can result in a gap at the top of the coil-over and an accompanying rattle."
Do they refer the middle bolt as in the nuts that's between the 3 upper bolts? Does this sequence only apply to rear coil-overs? If I didn't go by this order, would it help if I just loosen the upper bolts and re-tighten everything in the correct order?
 

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GKL68 said:
Do they refer the middle bolt as in the nuts that's between the 3 upper bolts? Does this sequence only apply to rear coil-overs? If I didn't go by this order, would it help if I just loosen the upper bolts and re-tighten everything in the correct order?
I work on SimpDaddys car, but I dont remember. Feel free to IM him, he will help anybody that Ims him.
 

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Great info here. I just finished my install today.
Was wondering if anyone can add torque specs to the instructions??
 

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Help

I just installed Eibach springs on my car and I am getting a knocking noise from the rear on both sides. And also my car bounces around really bad now. PLEASE HELP!!!!
 

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More springs install instructions

Originally posted by KryptoniK.

KryptoniK said:
ok here it goes...


what i describe here for the front applies to both sides...


^^ Remove these 2 bolts on the bottom of the front suspension (sorry for my lack of knowledge of part names..... but it's the 2 bolts right under the rotors) this will free the rotors, you can swing it out to the side of the doors, which allows for easy removal of the spring/shock setup....


^^ This is obvious, remove that bolt to remove the shock.....


^^ Another obvious one... remove those 4 bolts (for the left side) ... on the right you should have to remove 4 bolts too if you still have the DRL box. AND THATS IT, they should pop right out!


now what I type here applies for both sides of the rear suspension...


^^ (this picture is the left side of the car) The first bolt (left to right) holds the shock, remove that....... NOW, in order to get the spring/shock assembly out, you need to drop the bottom control arm (by still keeping it attached to the rotor assembly)...... the second bolt is what holds the sway bars... the third one is what will let the arm drop, allowing you to remove the springs/shocks...


^^ Now remove those 2 bolts


^^ Here you just need to remove those 3 clips, and the screw thats on the bottom, under all the linning. after you remove those clips, just pull the linning back (it is made to bend so you dont have to take out the whole linning) now just unscrew all 3 bolts that hold the springs/shocks...


AND THATS IT!!

I would say the hardest part of doing this was putting the control arm back in place, getting everything aligned..... aslong as you have someone to help, it's a piece of cake!!


now.. i dont know if this is the right way of doing this, but it sure was easy!
 

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could you get those pics in the original post hosted by somebody else they aren't working :(
 

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Does anyone know if you can compress the spring while it is still on the car then remove the top bolts to pull out the strut assembly enough to clear the fender well and swap springs? I used to be able to do this on other cars. Just wondering...
 

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We will be doing a spring install shortly and put up a step by step in the content section.

All these tips will definatley help us, and we will combine them to find the best approach. :)

Thanks
 

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After putting my Hotchkis springs in today (full install writeup pending), I came to the following conclusions.

FRONT: Can be done easily without disassembling ANY of the main suspension. Unbolt the sway bar, unbolt the sensor line from the shock body, unbolt the shock at the bottm and the three bolts at the top. Push the whole front assembly down to break it loose from the shock. Move the shock towards the front of the car and then bring it down and out of the wheel well.

REAR: Can be done without disassembling ANY of the main suspension (and pulling it out from the top). However, it is MUCH easier to drop the lower "A" arm by unbolting it at the back end. Unbolt the sway bar and the sensor arm (on left side only). Unbolt the bottom, middle and top bolts on the shock assembly. Now, remove the rear bolt from the arm - it will drop all the way down and the shock will come out from the bottom. Easy.
 

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The web host is no longer hosting the install pics. Let me know if a host is needed. I could throw them onto my site if another isn't available.
 

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can anyone host the pics that are in the first post? also, w/ the big 1 w/ pics, i noticed that there wasnt any mention of removing sensors. is that true? if the pics cant b hosted, does anyone know any other site that has a bunch of pics of what i have to do exactly?
 

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acman1 said:
can anyone host the pics that are in the first post? also, w/ the big 1 w/ pics, i noticed that there wasnt any mention of removing sensors. is that true? if the pics cant b hosted, does anyone know any other site that has a bunch of pics of what i have to do exactly?
I'll try and get my install guide up shortly.

There are no sensors to remove. In the front, you need to you remove the cable bolted to the shocks. In the rear you need to disconnect the sensor lever (left side only) for the headlight-leveller.
 

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anyone have those pics...

the first post isnt working

ill host if need be
 

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does anyone have any pics of how to take the shock assembly apart also? i should be doing the install in the next couple days so any pics would be appreciated.
 
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