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Since everyone seems to be doing clutch swaps all of a sudden I thought I would help out a little since I just completed my clutch. Most shops will probably charge about $500 to do the install and Lexus will charge about $2200. But if you're really wanting a good, fun learning project for your IS this is a good place to start. If anyone cares to add to this, Please feel free. This is assuming you have some general technical skills and knowledge. I do not accept responsibility if you F*** something up.

Remove the Tranmission
1. Start by disconnecting the battery. I also disconnected the passenger airbag inside the glovebox.
2. Remove the interior console panels around the shifter. This will allow access to remove the Shifter from the transmission
3. Raise Vehicle. PLEASE BE SURE THE VEHICLE IS PROPERLY SUPPORTED!

4. Remove the Engine cover and under panels. Drain the oil, transmission fluid, and radiator fluid. Not sure why the radiator fluid, but thats what the repair manual says.
5. Remove the Air intake connector, being sure to disconnect the wiring.
6. Remove the Exhaust manifold. I pulled mine out from the top, which required removing the throttle body. Some people choose to drop it out the bottom. Whichever you choose, just remember that muscle fucking it isn't always the answer.
7. Remove exhaust. you can unbolt the y-pipe. Some of you might even be able to leave it in place. I like to get everything out of the way. so I removed everything.
8. Remove the Propeller shaft. Unbolt the 4 bolts at the differential and support the center so that it doesn't fall. You want to keep it as straight as possible.
DON'T FORGET TO PUT MATCH MARKS ON THE SHAFT AND DIFFERENTIAL FOR REALIGNMENT AT INSTALLATION.

9. Disconnect the clutch release cylinder and wiring from the transmission.
10. Remove the starter and jack transmission up slightly. Starter has 2 bolts and the top is pretty tricky. Use a universal joint and a 12" extension and it should be pretty easy to access.
11. Remove the rear transmission mounting member followed by the rear transmission mount.
12. Loosen the 4 bolts on the engine mounts to allow the transmission to move a little. This will allow access to the top bolts of the transmission. These bolts can be reached with ~36" extensions. I believe they require a 17mm socket. After separating the tranny from the engine, rotate the transmission clockwise to where it almost touches the car body. Wiggle wiggle wiggle and lower the jack. *This is where you might need to muscle fuck it*


Remove the Clutch
1. Remove the 6 bolts on the clutch plate.
2. Pull off clutch plate and disc.

Remove the Flywheel
1. Remove the 8 bolts. These bolts are not reusable!
2. Pull off the flywheel. Remember it's 32+ lbs!!!

INSTALLATION [indicates torque value]

Install Flywheel
1. Install 8 NEW bolts. Use Loctite on new bolt threads and install.

Install Clutch
1. Place Clutch disc and pressure plate in place and insert alignment tool. Use loctite and install the 6 bolts. [torque to 19.1 NM ]
2 Apply grease to the fork and to to the Transmissin spline.
3 Install dust boot, release bearing and fork on transmission.

Install Transmission
1. Raise transmission with jack and align input spline with clutch disc. Remove the Alignment tool first.
2. Wiggle wiggle wiggle. Muscle fuck Muscle fuck Muscle fuck! It may take a second. Lol... once mated with engine, bolt the 8 bolts. lower three bolts are torqued to 37.3 NM upper 5 bolts are torqued to 71.6 NM.
3. Install rear Transmission mount [25.5 Nm] and the rear transmission mounting member [25NM bolts]. [13.5 NM on the nuts]
4. Install starter [37.3 NM]
5. Connect harnesses and clutch release cylinder. [11.7 NM 2 bolts]
6. Install Propeller shaft. Be sure to support the shaft at all times. align match marks and bolt up to differential. [74 NM]

Now is a good time to upgrade headers or exhaust if you're still running stock.

7. Install Exhaust. [62 NM at y-pipe]
8. Install headers. [40 NM]

9. Fill fluids.
( Transmission - 2.6 liters of SAE75W-90, Oil - 5.6 liters of SAE 5W-30, Radiator fluid - 2 gallons of 50/50)
10. Install lower panelling.
11. Install Air Intake connector.

Now is a good time to upgrade to a short shifter if you want.
12. install shifter. [8 NM]
13. Install Interior console and dash.

Congrats. Hopefully that helped. Break in for new clutches usually is around 500 -1000 miles. generally city, not highway miles.

Like I said, This is just from my recent experience replacing my own clutch. TORQUE ALL BOLTS USING A HAND TORQUE AND NOT PNUEMATICS!!!!

Attached are a few files which show some of the components involved in this swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Anytime....
 
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how the F do you get the pilot bearing out, the mother f'r will not come out for the life of me and I have just been messing with it for two hours! F this transmission!

Edit, the bearing just shattered on me leaving the outside rim still inside the shaft. It will not come out...still :pissed:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
AutoZone or Advanced Auto parts rents the Pilot bearing removal tool. Pulls out in like 5 minutes. If you've seriously shattered the bearing, That fucking blows! I'd go rent the proper tool and see if you can use it to remove the bearing. FYI... Patience will help alot! There were nights where I had to quit after struggling for hours. the next day I came out and it was so simple. Don't get too frustrated.
 

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Ha ha I am cooled down now, just being on your back with two feet of space to work with!

The outer ring of the bearing is the only thing left. I will admit I was impatient and torqued on it and I learned my lesson, tis' the way of DIY. Anyway Ill just go rent a pilot bearing removal tool.

How do you like your ralco shifter? I am thinking about replacing my B&M cause its covered in dynamat that melted all over it, and I do not want that shit all over everything.
 

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^^^Doh, let us know how that goes!

I've read a trick that supposedly works well although I've never had to use it. Use wet paper towel bits. Pack the recess behind the bearing with them until it's filled. Then just get a bolt, alignment tool, extension, whatever...anything that will fit in the hole of the bearing and tap it with a hammer. The bearing should just pop out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, Don't use your alignment tool for anything other than aligning. I also suggest using new clutch plate bolts. They're only $2 each. HAND TORQUE! lol
 

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Ok, clutch is in and I did a little write up on my thread.

Now the clutch will only engage when the pedel is to the floor. I bled the clutch , like brakes, but it still is too soft. Anything to make it harder to press, and make it not at the point where the pedel is to the floor?

Edit: I see someone edited the curse words out of my post hahah
 

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I remember reading somewhere that you have to align the clutch petal from inside the car. something about turning a bolt located at the top of the clutch petal. Can someone else elaborate as I've never had to do this....
 

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Probably a stupid question, but can a clutch swap or any tranny work be done with just typical jack stands on their highest level? Would the tranny have enough room to come out? I'm sure it would be such a bitch with the combined awkwardness of the weight of the tranny and crawling under the car. Perhaps someone has a few tricks up their sleeve that they want to share?
 

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I used 2 jack like this: http://www.germes-online.com/direct/dbimage/50218549/Scissors_Jack.jpg with wood under the jack and 2 typical stand like that: http://guide.sonus-usa.com/JackStand.jpg But I took a lot of time to make sure it's safe while the car is getting up. If I would have to do it again I would pay for another set of stand.

By they way, to remove the pilote bearing I used a smaller bolt than the hole and I have put some duck tape around to make a sort of cone. Then I used some regular white grease to fill the hole and knock the bolt inside the hole with my hammer (easily). After reaching the end of the hole, I took it out, add some grease and did it again. It worked after 3 times without any problem.

Hydraulic FTW! :)
 

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If you got access to a car lift go that route(its so much easier) but its possible to do it in your garage with jackstands...Also make sure you got all the torque values, patience and a buddy to help you out...and lots of beer afterward...lol..
 

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pics would be nice, thanks for sharing

+rep time
 

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dfolic. haha lol. wiggle wiggle muscle fuck muscle fuck it! Best write up ever. When I'm doing my clutch and pulling or putting the tranny back on I'm going to use your curse words with a little of a remix. aahhhh, muscle fuck, wiggle, wiggle, muscle fucking you tranny! muscle fucked! I just need to decide between CM stage 1 or 2 for now for bolt ons and headers. Also got a UR flywheel.
 

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Hey, thanks a lot. +rep. This is just what I needed. It'll be my first clutch job and the hardest auto work I'd attempt but I really want to learn more. I'll get help here and there. If you don't mind or if its not too much trouble can you make a list of tools needed? I think it'll help other first timers doing clutch work as well. So I don't have to go back and forth to the store. I got lots of stuff already but just want to make sure I have everything before I start. Tools that would make certain things easier as well. Thanks for the help.
 
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