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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I just boosted my car and am at about 380WHP was wondering which clutches are recommended for 400hp cause mines slips in 4th now. I want one that’s street friendly but I do plan on going to the track with some friends and drive events every now and then.
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I had a clutchmasters FX400, a driftmotion stage 3.5, and now I have a McLeod RXT twin.

The Clutchmasters and DM clutches had no issue holding the torque (~475lbft @ tires). The pedal was plenty light and while the engagement zone was narrow, they both felt fine. Both had sprung hubs and were of the "ceramic puck" style.

Their street manners were god-f'n-awful. Bottom line is they hated to slip. AT ALL. This meant significant clutch chatter every time I started from a stop. Much worse starting on a hill. Worse in reverse. Made getting the car onto a trailer almost impossible.

I did learn to drive it - absolutely minimizing slipping of the clutch as much as possible - but it still chattered and annoyed the hell out of me. (FYI, I'm 40 and have never owned an automatic trans car, so I'm not a noob with manual transmissions)

I tried a bunch of things to improve the chatter - resurfaced flywheel, new trans mount, adjusted driveshaft angle, new rear subframe bushings, etc. Nothing helped.

The RXT twin totally solved the issue. Pedal is light, feel is nice and progressive, doesn't chatter at all. Was rather surprised when it arrived and neither disc is sprung - and the clutch facing material is some kind of sintered bronze... Wouldn't have guessed that would provide a nice streetable clutch. I think it was rated at 800 or 900hp. Way overkill for my needs, but nice driveability was a huge priority for me. It was about $1800 all up to include the flywheel, discs, pressure plate and ARP studs to put it together. Not a cheap date, but it's been worth it.

Edit to add: I've played with a lot of American V8 stuff that have 10.5 and 11" clutches. With a clutch that big, you can hold a lot of torque with a basic and nicely mannered organic clutch disc. Unfortunately, the 2J clutch is way smaller, which means compromises must be made. In my experience, moving to a very aggressive ceramic puck clutch is not a good compromise. My McLeod compromises price to achieve nice manners and still hold the torque.
 

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You don’t buy puck clutches for street driving. They will ALL chatter. They are on and off switches. If you want a good street clutch, buy a clutch that utilizes a FULL disc. A spec stage 3+ would be perfect for daily driving and will hold your power. It will run you around $600ish

I have had many clutches over the years including when I was racing my Honda’s. The last clutch I did on my personal car was a spec clutch on my 540i. Felt just like a stock clutch but held more power. Worked flawlessly.
 

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You don’t buy puck clutches for street driving. They will ALL chatter. They are on and off switches. If you want a good street clutch, buy a clutch that utilizes a FULL disc. A spec stage 3+ would be perfect for daily driving and will hold your power. It will run you around $600ish
Couldn't agree more. However, after a couple calls to Clutchmasters and Drift Motion, I was told they didn't have a full face clutch that would handle 450+ lbft, and they also led me to believe the pucks would be ok for street.

I guess their idea of streetable was different than yours or mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had a clutchmasters FX400, a driftmotion stage 3.5, and now I have a McLeod RXT twin.

The Clutchmasters and DM clutches had no issue holding the torque (~475lbft @ tires). The pedal was plenty light and while the engagement zone was narrow, they both felt fine. Both had sprung hubs and were of the "ceramic puck" style.

Their street manners were god-f'n-awful. Bottom line is they hated to slip. AT ALL. This meant significant clutch chatter every time I started from a stop. Much worse starting on a hill. Worse in reverse. Made getting the car onto a trailer almost impossible.

I did learn to drive it - absolutely minimizing slipping of the clutch as much as possible - but it still chattered and annoyed the hell out of me. (FYI, I'm 40 and have never owned an automatic trans car, so I'm not a noob with manual transmissions)

I tried a bunch of things to improve the chatter - resurfaced flywheel, new trans mount, adjusted driveshaft angle, new rear subframe bushings, etc. Nothing helped.

The RXT twin totally solved the issue. Pedal is light, feel is nice and progressive, doesn't chatter at all. Was rather surprised when it arrived and neither disc is sprung - and the clutch facing material is some kind of sintered bronze... Wouldn't have guessed that would provide a nice streetable clutch. I think it was rated at 800 or 900hp. Way overkill for my needs, but nice driveability was a huge priority for me. It was about $1800 all up to include the flywheel, discs, pressure plate and ARP studs to put it together. Not a cheap date, but it's been worth it.

Edit to add: I've played with a lot of American V8 stuff that have 10.5 and 11" clutches. With a clutch that big, you can hold a lot of torque with a basic and nicely mannered organic clutch disc. Unfortunately, the 2J clutch is way smaller, which means compromises must be made. In my experience, moving to a very aggressive ceramic puck clutch is not a good compromise. My McLeod compromises price to achieve nice manners and still hold the torque.
Thank you so much I don’t know if I want to spend 1800 though at least not right now being in medical school. So I might have to bite the bullet on the chatter if I can’t find a suitable option but I appreciate your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You don’t buy puck clutches for street driving. They will ALL chatter. They are on and off switches. If you want a good street clutch, buy a clutch that utilizes a FULL disc. A spec stage 3+ would be perfect for daily driving and will hold your power. It will run you around $600ish

I have had many clutches over the years including when I was racing my Honda’s. The last clutch I did on my personal car was a spec clutch on my 540i. Felt just like a stock clutch but held more power. Worked flawlessly.
Thanks I might just go stage 3 then if it’ll handle the torque.
 

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A higher “Stage” single disk clutch is going to use a pressure plate with more clamp pressure than stock, or a twin disk setup. Read up on crank walk and how to mitigate it. Easiest way is to wire a clutch cancel switch. It lets you start the engine by pressing a button, instead of pressing the clutch pedal. Of course the transmission cannot be in gear when starting.

Theory is that there’s not much oil on the crank and main journals when starting after a period of sitting. So when you have the heavy clamp pressure plate and you start the engine “dry” it wears and causes axial play in the crank, eventually killing the thrust washers on the crank, ruining the block and crank. Some folks say it’s a myth with JZ’s, but it’s known and documented with Mitsubishi 4G63’s. Anyway, just a cheap insurance policy for your engine if you go that route.
 

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As long as it is a full face disc, any company you decide upon should do the job provided the kit can hold the torque you are aiming for.

It becomes a little harder to find a full faced disc when torque numbers exceed 400+ However there are a few companies that make full face disc that can hold above 400 ft. Lbs. If you can’t find one you like then you most likely will have to go to a twin disc setup which is expensive. I gave you that spec option because it is half the price of a twin disc and will hold the power you said you’re making.

SPEC is one of them, you would have to do your research on ACT, Clutch Masters, Southbend, McLeod, exedy, monster etc…
 

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I am at 390HP and just went to the Clutchmaster twin disk w/ hydro bearing when i did a R154 swap. prior to the swap I have had two ACT extreme clutches w/ 6 puck sprung disk on the stock W55 tranny (still have the last one for sale here ACT Xtreme Clutch and Fidanza aluminum flywheel) . no doubt that the twin disk is a more streetable setup. The 6 puck was either engaged or not engaged and had very little to zero ability to feather the clutch in. no issues with holding the torque but made it a pain to drive in stop and go traffic. like stated early, you will also get a lot of chatter out of the 6 puck clutch. I do get some chatter at low RPMs out of the twin disc but its not as bad as the 6 puck. the pedal feel is also better with the twin disc due to the hydro release bearing.
Like ill_mannered stated. A full face single disc that can hold your numbers would be a good lower cost choice but your options are limited. i wasn't able to find a good option, that was in stock, when i did the last 6 puck purchase and install.
 

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I am at 390HP and just went to the Clutchmaster twin disk w/ hydro bearing when i did a R154 swap. prior to the swap I have had two ACT extreme clutches w/ 6 puck sprung disk on the stock W55 tranny (still have the last one for sale here ACT Xtreme Clutch and Fidanza aluminum flywheel) . no doubt that the twin disk is a more streetable setup. The 6 puck was either engaged or not engaged and had very little to zero ability to feather the clutch in. no issues with holding the torque but made it a pain to drive in stop and go traffic. like stated early, you will also get a lot of chatter out of the 6 puck clutch. I do get some chatter at low RPMs out of the twin disc but its not as bad as the 6 puck. the pedal feel is also better with the twin disc due to the hydro release bearing.
Like ill_mannered stated. A full face single disc that can hold your numbers would be a good lower cost choice but your options are limited. i wasn't able to find a good option, that was in stock, when i did the last 6 puck purchase and install.
You built what you have. If you have any problem with it put it back the way it was.
Re: Stop and Go traffic. It took me 2 hours + to go 50 miles here in LA. That averages out to 25 miles an hour. In traffic let the car in front of you jet away. They are just going to stop anyway. Creep up to them at a speed to reach them right as they jet off again. Yes you might have a 5 car gap but you never needed to use your clutch except for the initial slow take off. Sure people will jet in front of you but they won't be there long. Put on some cool tunes and enjoy the ride. Your in a comfy Lexus Just roll and watch the craziness before you. So you raced around on the freeway and have got off the freeway 5 minutes early. Just one stoplight will take that away.

Want a real test? Go from LA to San Diego on the first day of Memorial Day weekend. Drive next to the same jerk off cutting everyone off to get ahead the enjoy getting off the same off ramp at the same time they did.

You can only drive as fast ass the azz hole in front of you.
 
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