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Discussion Starter #1
Have 200k miles on car never changed any tips? Some say use Mobil 75w 90 oil. Do I need fo add any additives? Thnks
 

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I did this about 7,000 miles ago and didn't add any additives to mine and it is still running great with no problems. had 240K miles on the car.
 

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The bolts are hex caps 10mm. If it seems like it wont release, use a plumbers torch to heat the bolt head until it smokes, then try again. The washer is aluminum and dissimilar metal will oxidize together. Heat breaks the bond. Just be careful of what around what you are torching.
When you put it back in, put antiseize between the washer and bolt head, not on the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thnks! Any thoughts on using the Walmart supertech 75w 90 synthetic gear oil? It’s like $6 a quart compared to like $14 for Mobil 1
 

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The fresh Walmart lube is definitely better than 200k used lube...

However, consider all the load being transmitted by your diff - and consider there's only about 1.5 liters of fluid to absorb all the heat generated.

Then consider that Mobil 1s ability to resist heat break-down is extremely well proven.

$8 difference over the course of 50k-100k miles seems pretty insignificant to me, but your milage may vary.
 

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You'll get varying opinions on whether or not to change old crappy automatic trans fluid... Something about fresh fluid with detergents cleaning out built up nastiness and screwing everything up.

I'm of the opinion to change it. I've changed old crappy fluid, greatly improved shift quality, fixed torque converter shudder, and not had the transmission fail.
 

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At one point I didn't want to change the fluid on high mileage auto's but I've been forced to do complete drain and fills a couple times with different IS300 transmissions (because I removed, disassembled and reinstalled) and it's never caused me any issues.

I have a 150K mile transmission I did this too. Checked clearances. The front pump was right at the wear limits. So, not changing the fluid clearly causes wear.
 

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You'll get varying opinions on whether or not to change old crappy automatic trans fluid... Something about fresh fluid with detergents cleaning out built up nastiness and screwing everything up.

I'm of the opinion to change it. I've changed old crappy fluid, greatly improved shift quality, fixed torque converter shudder, and not had the transmission fail.
Im the same thought, id rather have fresh fluids doing the work and know its good than have it crap out in the middle of nowhere cause the fluid was well past it. I still remember an uncle who would not change his fluid for so long the car wouldnt drive up our driveway and had to be towed out.

I have changed fluids on a few cars including my IS and it made a significant change to the shifting (some felt not what i was expecting), making me think either its never been changed or someone has thrown the wrong fluid in there in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thnks all! Just curious what is the recommended change or maintenance interval for the diff fluid on the is 300? And for first gen is 300 is the oem trans fluid the Toyota IV fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One more? Should I bother ordering new crush washers for the diff plugs? And are they both the same size? (Ie. The drain and the full plug)
 

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One more? Should I bother ordering new crush washers for the diff plugs? And are they both the same size? (Ie. The drain and the full plug)
Correct answer is yes. Real world answer is inspect and reuse if good. Also you can rest easy if you decide to use Supertech fluids. Walmart sources the fluids from well knows refinery's like Warren Labs. They just buy such a crap ton that they can offer it cheaper. They also don't spend bajillions a year on marketing so the consumer gets the savings from that. You will never have issues with any Supertech fluids. They meet all specification and API certs for whatever grade is advertised. Go with whatever brand gives you the warm fuzzies.
 

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the crush washers are the same, do not reuse unless you want to risk leaking all your new gear oil. i went to the dealer with the part numbers and the guy didnt even look it up, he just went to a rack and starting sizing via eyesight.

here is what i used:


i havent read the first part of this thread, so im not sure if your torsen or open; but that is what i used in my torsen. the torsens in our chassis do not need additives. this stuff is great because its GL5 rated, but does not have any additives that some other LSDs call for.
 

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The crush washers are the same, do not reuse unless you want to risk leaking all your new gear oil.
I have a confession to make. I can't remember the last time I replaced a crush washer on a fluid change. I know I should replace them and I'd like to replace them. I just typically don't have one on hand. I do torque the drain plug with a torque wrench though.

Most of the new GL5's are supposed to be re-formulated not to attack the synchros anymore. I'd read the bottle to be sure.
 
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