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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As I was driving I did a small pull to get up to speed on the highway and as I get up to speed all of a sudden the car feels like it goes out of gear, then the car just dies. I brake but it feels stiff, I stop of the side of the ramp. Car cranks but no start. I posted on the FB is300 help group to see what some people would say. I got the car home safe, but i'm still not entirely sure why it wouldn't start. I'll try to check the fuel pump (I got with class right now), but I'm also getting people saying it could be that it lost compression. I checked the timing belt and it's still intact, but I haven't check the timing out to see if it fell out of time. Any other idea of what could've caused my car to die and not startup would be appreciated.


Edit:Ok, so I replaced the pump and it still had the issue. But, I used my common sense and checked the plugs to see if the cylinder heads had fuel on top of them. Check cylinder 1 as always and the plug was smashed in and I look into the hole and whelp, shit. I look into the hole and well, doesn't look like the top of the cylinder, it looks destroyed. The other cylinders and spark plugs look fine, just covered in what looks like fuel and oil. But i'm suspecting that the cylinder 1 rod snapped. Should I take the time to rebuild it or just buy a new motor? I'm in summer classes for Auto-Tech, and I really can't spare much time rebuilding, but I can do what I can to tear it apart. I just need some time. But it has to be done at my Uncle's place. He's got an engine stand and hoist so if I can get an engine I can straight up just do it there, but a whole engine kinda costs a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Check fuel pump first. Also make sure your timing belt did not snap.
Ok, so I checked the pump. It made a noise but I can only hear it if I put my ear up to my seat. I was gonna check the fuel line and rail but I don't know how to check without taking off the intake. Is there any way to check the pressure easily?

I also checked the fuses and relays and they worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No easy way to check.
Damn ok, would it just be the throttle body or the top of the intake manifold? Is there a specific bolt I can unscrew to check the pressure or will I have to take of the fuel line? If I have to do, I think I know which line it is but it felt metal. Is that the fuel line connection or is the fuel line rubber? Sorry if it sounds stupid. But I haven't seen much posts talking about the fuel lines.
 

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but I'm also getting people saying it could be that it lost compression.
:rolleyes: unless you were hammering on an old ass engine this is highly unlikely.



Is that the fuel line connection or is the fuel line rubber? Sorry if it sounds stupid. But I haven't seen much posts talking about the fuel lines.
It's a valid question, don't sweat it, as far as I know, all fuel lines are metal. What you're looking for is a schrader valve, which as far as I know doesn't exist on our fuel rails.

I found this post on our forum from about 8 years ago:

Yes, Lexus has to be difficult if you don't have their techstream to tell you realtime digitally:rolleyes:

There are 3 SST's(pressure gauge, union, and adaptor). You will use the existing 2 gaskets. You want to do this at the union bolt where the hose feeds the hard line right underneath towards the driverside rear(main fuel feed). SF-6 (page 223) shows the gauge added using the union and the adaptor, which is really just a longer bolt to include the gauge. So, according to FSM, you'd need these three listed.

Pressure gauge SST #09268-45014
union SST #09268-41190
adaptor(union bolt) SST #90405-06167

found a source: http://www.handsontools.com/OTC-Tools-09268-45014-Gauge-Hose-Set-_p_49959.html
http://www.handsontools.com/OTC-Toyota-09268-41190-01-12mm-Double-Banjo-Bolt-_p_40636.html
http://www.handsontools.com/OTC-Toyota-09268-45015-01-EFI-Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Set-_p_40644.html

Wow, I neglected to look at the price for the gauge, that has to be wrong i hope.
600 bucks...okay screw that! Cheaper to just replace all the damn fuel components...pump and frp. HAHA

Humm but I think i'd only need the union and bolt.

Path of least resistance would indicate to replace the fuel pump



Here's the repair documentation I found that the others were referencing:

135360
135361
135362
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:rolleyes: unless you were hammering on an old ass engine this is highly unlikely.





It's a valid question, don't sweat it, as far as I know, all fuel lines are metal. What you're looking for is a schrader valve, which as far as I know doesn't exist on our fuel rails.

I found this post on our forum from about 8 years ago:






Path of least resistance would indicate to replace the fuel pump



Here's the repair documentation I found that the others were referencing:

View attachment 135360 View attachment 135361 View attachment 135362
Ok cool, about now I'm thinking on getting a fuel pump. Should I get after market, or oem? I am planning on doing a turbo swap once I got enough time and money, and I was gonna get a better fuel pump. So would it be better to get one, or will I have to get additional parts so it can handle the aftermarket pump? I'm planning on getting a walbro 255 lph. Since it's around the same price, I gussed might as well.
 

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Ok cool, about now I'm thinking on getting a fuel pump. Should I get after market, or oem? I am planning on doing a turbo swap once I got enough time and money, and I was gonna get a better fuel pump. So would it be better to get one, or will I have to get additional parts so it can handle the aftermarket pump? I'm planning on getting a walbro 255 lph. Since it's around the same price, I gussed might as well.
Some things to consider: as far as I know, mismatching fuel delivery systems with an incorrect tune can really screw shit up. This goes with either the fuel pump, or the injectors, everything needs to be sized correctly.

Now if I were you, just get the OEM and call it a day until you're fully ready to do anything boost related, I replaced mine with OEM and it's been hassle free. And when you say: "turbo swap", what exactly are you trying to say? You want to go NA/T? If so, there are a lot of other components you need to consider, it's no cheap conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some things to consider: as far as I know, mismatching fuel delivery systems with an incorrect tune can really screw shit up. This goes with either the fuel pump, or the injectors, everything needs to be sized correctly.

Now if I were you, just get the OEM and call it a day until you're fully ready to do anything boost related, I replaced mine with OEM and it's been hassle free. And when you say: "turbo swap", what exactly are you trying to say? You want to go NA/T? If so, there are a lot of other components you need to consider, it's no cheap conversion.
Oh by turbo swap I meant Aristo Swap. I'm getting it all planned out, but yeah. I'll just get an OEM seems easier and i'll just pick it up from a local store. I'll let you know if it's the fuel pump. I'm busy right now but a little later, I can make final decision on whether it's fuel pump or something else.
 

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if its cranking but not starting then its most likely one of the basics, you need to check fuel is getting through (as you are on to), and check to see if you have spark (obviously not at the same time though ;)) . The pump may or may not be fine, but it could be the fuel pressure regulator not letting enough fuel into the rail. Might be a coil pack or the igniter stopping it generating spark, or even a a bad earth to the motor. Possibly even an issue with the throttle body motor, but im going to go out on a limb and say it doesn't sound like it to me. As mentioned it wont be compression without a whole lot of other things associated with a blown head gasket.

Start with the basics and eliminate as you go. Check for any codes on the ECU, if there are non then disconnect the battery for a bit reset it and see if anything changes. Then check for spark first, its a free and relatively easy test. If its generating a spark then chances are its most likely going to be fuel. Check nothings come unplugged, then check regulator, pump, kinks or crush in the fuel line (bottomed out recently?), maybe injectors though unlikely. Is it getting enough air? Intakes not blocked?
 

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Had a similar thing happen to me a 4 years back. Car just randomly died while I was going to work.
Troubleshot and made sure the timing belt didnt snap, then checked spark, and fuel. Confirmed the motor was not getting fuel.
Threw in a walbro 255 and haven't had issues since.

Also check your fuses and see if everything vital is intact.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, so I replaced the pump and it still had the issue. But, I used my common sense and checked the plugs to see if the cylinder heads had fuel on top of them. Check cylinder 1 as always and the plug was smashed in and I look into the hole and whelp, shit. I look into the hole and well, doesn't look like the top of the cylinder, it looks destroyed. The other cylinders and spark plugs look fine, just covered in what looks like fuel and oil. But i'm suspecting that the cylinder 1 rod snapped. Should I take the time to rebuild it or just buy a new motor? I'm in summer classes for Auto-Tech, and I really can't spare much time rebuilding, but I can do what I can to tear it apart. I just need some time. But it has to be done at my Uncle's place. He's got an engine stand and hoist so if I can get an engine I can straight up just do it there, but a whole engine kinda costs a lot.
 

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If the rods gone then chances are you are in for a new block as well, so thats really a whole bottom end. May as well just find another motor and swap it out.

Could just drop the sump and try pull the #1 piston to see if you can see more about whats gone on and what damage there is.
 
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