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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
IM trying to figure out which amp to run my RF Punch HE2. I found a good deal on an old school RF 500s but it is rated at 500rms x 1 @ 4ohms bridged. Now from what I know I can either run both voice coils at 2ohms or run one voice coil at 8ohms according to RF website. What I'm wondering is if I ran it at 2ohms on this amp what would happen? Is there any way to wire so that I can run both coils at 4ohms?

BTW I know VERY little about car stereo so please lay it on me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Or can I run each coil to one channel thereby giving me 4 ohms per channel? ANd the amp can handle 250rms x2 @4ohms. does this sound right? BTW the sub is 400rms.
 

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With a dual voice coil sub that has 4ohm coils you can run the following configs...
    1. Coils in series - 8ohms
    2. Coils in parallel - 2ohms
    3. Run one channel per coil on a two channel amp - 4ohms per channel

    So I doubt you'll find an amp that makes sufficient power at 8ohms in your price range so your best bet is to find a 2ohm mono amp. Lots of amps make good power at 2ohms.

    And if those are the HE2's that I remember you'll need some power. Those things were awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I found a RF 500bd Mono that makes 600wrms x1 @2ohms that looks like it will match up great. However I also just found a PG mono R8.0:1 that make 800wrms [email protected] 2ohms for only $80 while the RF is $100. Do you think the PG is too much for my sub, would I be able to correctly adjust the gain to match it seeing as how it is only 400wrms?
 

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The HE2 will take more than rated power if you put it in the right box. I'd buy the PG so you have to power headroom. It's always good to have more power than you NEED at your disposal because you can choose just not to use it all by way of the gain knob. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After looking around I found that the PG was being misrepresented at 800wrms when in fact it is 600wrms @2ohms which is the same as the RF. So seeing as how they are pretty much dead even in terms of specs what would you recommend. I hear these OLD SCHOOl RF amps are some of the most reliable and underrated ever built, and the PG is "refurbished" but its $20 less. Tough choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The RF is in perfect working order. I would like to keep RF and RF, and I'm never too confident with refurb stuff although Im not sure when it comes to sound equipment. Are you familiar with refurb audio?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was thinking pretty much the same thing in that I cant go wrong either way. I wish I hadn't bought this sub already I would have bought one of your custom spare enclosed setups!!! How much for one BTW?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a quick question and dont feel like staring another thread just for it.

The previous owner had the trunk wired up for subwoofers already, I was looking back there tonight and noticed 8ga power, 8ga ground, rca's but then there is a thin ethernet data cable as well. Does anyone know what this is used for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There is another wire back there as well!! To be honest I haven't wired an amp and subs since my first integra when I was 16!!!!!

So in the back I have: 8ga+,8ga-, single wire(remote i assume), rca, and ethernet. I do not need to use the remote or ethernet correct? Those are only if I want to buy a bass knob to install up front?

Another quick question, between this battery->Amazon.com: Shuriken SK-BT20 20ah Battery: Automotive

and this battery-> Amazon.com: Shuriken SK-BT35 35ah Battery: Automotive


Would either of them be able to power the car plus sound system? I need something smaller than stock in order to fit my abs block up in the battery tray. I dont sit in parking lots with the stereo either Im either driving it, or its parked.
 

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The remote wire tells the amp to turn on. You'll need to use it for your new amp as well. If your new amp has a bass knob as well you can use the other wire with the phone cord looking end as well.
 
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