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Can’t figure out the problem, starts idles then dies.

697 Views 11 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Theneil300
Hey guys I’m newly registered but followed these threads for years.
I have my 2001 IS 300 with 297,000 in the shop, here’s the backstory I was driving home one day when suddenly I went to accelerate out of a corner and noticed I had no power, I would push the pedal and it almost seemed like it was blocked or clogged it wouldn’t go passed a certain rpm on the dash even though the engine would rev like it was working overtime, a noise I’ve never heard before loud but clogging rev not a normal rev I thought I could make it home but the power seemed to have get less and less then eventually it so bad I had to floor it to get anywhere even then it was barely moving at that point my trac light, and check engine light started flashing I think more lights too but that’s most of what I remember, then the rpm gauge started bouncing uncontrollably like a super rough idle I shut the car off parked it and got a tow the next day.
Next day I showed up it started up fine and drove itself onto the tow truck still had minimal power wouldn't go passed like 2 1/2 thousand maybe 3 weirdest noise I’ve ever heard come from the car again sounded clogged also as I leaned out of the car during rev I could hear almost like a grinding/ rubbing coming from underneath I didn’t think much of it.
It’s been sitting in the shop for months now as my mechanic is stumped as to what it is. No CEL, No codes… nothing.
here's the list on what I’ve replaced
- Fuel pump/filter
-Fuel regulator
  • spark plugs/ coils/ connectors
  • throttle body/ TPS
  • Maf sensor
Mods: injen short ram intake, full tein suspension, figs upper control arms, Megan lower control arms, magnaflow full exhaust system with tanabe muffler. Nothing crazy so I doubt any of the mods have something to do with it plus I don’t have anything done in the engine that would make me think twice about.

All cats were recently replaced at about 250,xxx same with all the o2 sensors, alternator, water pump, timing belt and even a cam gear that had chipped a tooth, radiator. Mechanic checked compression everything was still as good as new, valve cover gasket replaced, transmission flush along with a new filter, battery was checked. Oil change maybe couple hundred miles before the incident. I’m stumped and so is my mechanic any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I love this car as it has been my daily for about 8 years now never given me any big issues or left me stranded I wanna keep this baby in the family and pass it down.
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Probably cam and crank sensors
I did replace those as well, both the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft timing sensor, I did notice the connector to the cam sensor was a bit loose as if the locking bit had broke but that was well before the issue you think maybe over time it could cause it to maybe short?
May be a bad Igniter. Also even though new coils and connectors. Double check them. A loss of IGF signal will cause this issue.
May be a bad Igniter. Also even though new coils and connectors. Double check them. A loss of IGF signal will cause this issue.
Okay, I’ll have my mechanic check, the reason I did replace the plugs, coils and connectors was because one of them was broken/ melted. So how would I check those? So I can explain to him.
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May be a bad Igniter. Also even though new coils and connectors. Double check them. A loss of IGF signal will cause this issue.
So we were able to check the IGF signal and everything is good I was able to get good voltage from the IGF we also checked C1,2,3 on the igniter all were good as well. One thing I noticed was my fuel pump wasn’t turning on when I went to start the car usually you hear it hum and start going so we applied power directly to it, car would start but struggled to stay alive. Again rough idle and stall. I did see somewhere on the forum that someone had a missing tooth on the crankshaft gear behind the pulley which caused it to go into limp mode and have a no start/ rough idle, now I do remember hearing something underneath the car after I stopped and when I would rev the engine almost like a tick/grind. You think that would cause any of the problems mentioned?
May be a bad Igniter. Also even though new coils and connectors. Double check them. A loss of IGF signal will cause this issue.
At this point my last resort is to tow it to Toyota but I know that bill isn’t going to be pretty, a bad tranny wouldn’t do this would it, the car had never had a transmission replacement and it’s reaching 300,xxx mi. I also heard about maybe a transmission shift solenoid as I doubt it would be a Transmission speed sensor. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I appreciate the info you’ve given so far.
At this point my last resort is to tow it to Toyota but I know that bill isn’t going to be pretty, a bad tranny wouldn’t do this would it, the car had never had a transmission replacement and it’s reaching 300,xxx mi. I also heard about maybe a transmission shift solenoid as I doubt it would be a Transmission speed sensor. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I appreciate the info you’ve given so far.
Have you made sure the injectors are all firing?
Have you made sure the injectors are all firing?
They were cleaned not too long ago but I will have my mechanic check to make sure, thank you for shooting more suggestions(y)
Have you made sure the injectors are all firing?
So all the injectors are firing, I made my mechanic double check for clogged injectors. At this point he thinks it’s a fuel problem, as I’m not getting enough, do you think maybe faulty fuel pump? I replaced it with a walbro 255 LPH I know it’s more than stock so do I need to do a tune or a reset maybe the ecu is confused with the upgrade? Or could possibly be a clogged fuel line from bad gas? Thanks for the suggestions, also sorry for the late reply I have a lot going on lately as I’m also a new father.
So all the injectors are firing, I made my mechanic double check for clogged injectors. At this point he thinks it’s a fuel problem, as I’m not getting enough, do you think maybe faulty fuel pump? I replaced it with a walbro 255 LPH I know it’s more than stock so do I need to do a tune or a reset maybe the ecu is confused with the upgrade? Or could possibly be a clogged fuel line from bad gas? Thanks for the suggestions, also sorry for the late reply I have a lot going on lately as I’m also a new father.
Pump size will not change anything.
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