OK,
I saw that there is an existing thread about this, but I am starting a new one because the way I did it is not like any of the ways previously discussed. I will use the info that I supplied to a member who asked how I did it. Here you go, and I hope this helps. You will be able to retain CC but not IAC. I don't have any issues with IAC, my idle is a little hi so it's not really any issue for me even with the A/C on.
Basically, what you have to do is:
-Take the throttle body off.
-Take the 4 bolts off that hold the throttle cable assemby to the throttle body off and take it off.
-Look inside and you will see a cammed deal that the throttle assembly mechanical stop will hit and allow the throttle to open about 50%.
-If you clock the throttle assemby about 45 degrees, you will notice that you can almost put it back in and there will be no slack so that when you open the throttle with the pedal, it would open 100%.
-The only problem will be that there is a plastic mechanical stop that you will have to break/trim to make it all go back together as discribed (I wish I had pics of this because I'm going from memory right now). I think when you take it apart, you will see exactly what I'm talking about.
-After you trim/shave the mechanical stop, you will be able to put the throttle cable assebly back together with it clocked up at about 45 degees.
-Now the bolts will not match up obviously. The two bolts holes in the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position will line up with the sides of the throttle cable assembly.
-You will have to use 2 washers and the original bolts in the 3 and 9 o'clock position to sandwhich the sides of the throttle cable assembly to the throttle body.
-You will only be able to use 2 of the 4 original bolts but 2 is plenty (I've run mine like this for about 5K miles with no issues).
-Now you will see that the original cable is too long. You will have to trim it to fit and terminate it with a barrel tip kit. I got this from Autozone (I don't know what you have in the D/R, but I could send you some if you need (they are pretty cheap).
-The kit comes with various sizes and one is perfect to fit the throttle cable assembly. You will have to cut a few of the strands off the tip so that it will fit in the hole or you can open the hole up some.
-The barrel tip has a jamb screw that keeps the cable from slipping out. Make sure this is tight
-When you get it all back together, have someone open the throttle with the gas pedal to make sure the throttle plate opens 100%.
-You should be done now and you will notice that there is no slack when giving it gas and that your throttle response is much quicker! Blipping the throttle is a breeze with the DBW bypassed.
-Make sure you re-connect the DBW cable so that your cruise will still work and you're done. Enjoy. Here are some pics.
__________________
Red IS300 w/Boostlogic Turbo Kit, Built Aristo block (CPs, Carrillo H-beams, SPS Carr bolts) TEC3, Innovate Wideband, Rays Versus wheels, Eibach springs, B&M Shifter, etc, etc, etc. (R154 and MKIII Supra LSD in the works ;-).
408HP 411TRQ @ 14psi 93 pump & 5800RPM
F/S Aristo GTE or Built blocks available
I saw that there is an existing thread about this, but I am starting a new one because the way I did it is not like any of the ways previously discussed. I will use the info that I supplied to a member who asked how I did it. Here you go, and I hope this helps. You will be able to retain CC but not IAC. I don't have any issues with IAC, my idle is a little hi so it's not really any issue for me even with the A/C on.
Basically, what you have to do is:
-Take the throttle body off.
-Take the 4 bolts off that hold the throttle cable assemby to the throttle body off and take it off.
-Look inside and you will see a cammed deal that the throttle assembly mechanical stop will hit and allow the throttle to open about 50%.
-If you clock the throttle assemby about 45 degrees, you will notice that you can almost put it back in and there will be no slack so that when you open the throttle with the pedal, it would open 100%.
-The only problem will be that there is a plastic mechanical stop that you will have to break/trim to make it all go back together as discribed (I wish I had pics of this because I'm going from memory right now). I think when you take it apart, you will see exactly what I'm talking about.
-After you trim/shave the mechanical stop, you will be able to put the throttle cable assebly back together with it clocked up at about 45 degees.
-Now the bolts will not match up obviously. The two bolts holes in the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position will line up with the sides of the throttle cable assembly.
-You will have to use 2 washers and the original bolts in the 3 and 9 o'clock position to sandwhich the sides of the throttle cable assembly to the throttle body.
-You will only be able to use 2 of the 4 original bolts but 2 is plenty (I've run mine like this for about 5K miles with no issues).
-Now you will see that the original cable is too long. You will have to trim it to fit and terminate it with a barrel tip kit. I got this from Autozone (I don't know what you have in the D/R, but I could send you some if you need (they are pretty cheap).
-The kit comes with various sizes and one is perfect to fit the throttle cable assembly. You will have to cut a few of the strands off the tip so that it will fit in the hole or you can open the hole up some.
-The barrel tip has a jamb screw that keeps the cable from slipping out. Make sure this is tight
-When you get it all back together, have someone open the throttle with the gas pedal to make sure the throttle plate opens 100%.
-You should be done now and you will notice that there is no slack when giving it gas and that your throttle response is much quicker! Blipping the throttle is a breeze with the DBW bypassed.
-Make sure you re-connect the DBW cable so that your cruise will still work and you're done. Enjoy. Here are some pics.




__________________
Red IS300 w/Boostlogic Turbo Kit, Built Aristo block (CPs, Carrillo H-beams, SPS Carr bolts) TEC3, Innovate Wideband, Rays Versus wheels, Eibach springs, B&M Shifter, etc, etc, etc. (R154 and MKIII Supra LSD in the works ;-).
408HP 411TRQ @ 14psi 93 pump & 5800RPM
F/S Aristo GTE or Built blocks available