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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Background
Coming from a 2003 FBO IS300 (Sold) and a 2003 FBO 350z (still own). The IS300 has always been an appealing platform to me and I purchased my first one with the plans of going all out with an NA-T build. I owned the old one for about a year and was going to go through with doing a full bodykit + colour change on the car as my phase 1 (performance would be phase 2) but once I saw this particular Red IS300 pop up for sale, I knew it was time to pull the trigger on going all out with my plans for an NA-T build. I wasted no time selling my old N/A IS300 and immediately laying the groundwork for importing this IS300 into Canada.

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May 2019
After learning about the import process (bringing a car into Canada from the United States) and applying for a bunch of documentation to go through with it, I picked the car up Monday, May 27th, 2019 (Memorial Day). Drove about 450 Miles from Toronto, Ontario (Canada) to Pittsburgh, PA to purchase the car.Here are a few pictures I took at our rest stops from the road trip back.

IS300 Pickup_1-1.jpg
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The car supposedly made 470whp at 17psi on 93 pump gas, which I don't believe is accurate because I've been in cars that are shy of 400whp and they pull way harder than this IS did when I picked it up.

List of Mods when I bought the car:

Engine mods:
  • 2JZ-GTE Block (engine was balanced & blueprinted by boost logic as well (approx <50,000 miles on the motor at time of purchase).
  • GE Head with ARP Head Studs and OEM Gasket
  • BoostLogic PT 61 turbo kit
  • precision intercooler
  • HKS 41mm Wastegate
  • HKS ssqv BOV
  • 255lph walbro fuel pump
  • 800cc DeatschWerks injectors
  • aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
  • 3" turbo back exhaust, V band turbo outlet.
Transmission mods:
  • Cube Shifter
  • R154 5 speed trans (from 88' supra)
  • SPEC custom clutch setup
  • the driveshaft shop single piece aluminum custom driveshaft
  • 1JZ GTE bell housing
  • stainless steel braided clutch and hydraulic lines.
  • 30k mile LSD diff
  • 700hp axles
Suspension mods:
  • Full Air Lift air ride set up with 3H management and custom trunk set up, TRD yellow front & rear sway bars, JIC Magic front strut tower bar.
  • FRONT Suspension, custom shortened spindles (30mm), custom front extended tie rods, extended lower control arms, shortened and adjustable upper control arms.
  • REAR Suspension, custom adjustable lower control arms, modified TCS adjustable upper control arms, custom adjustable trac links, and custom adjustable toe arms.
Electronic stuff:
  • TRD gauge pod
  • Defi BF Link gauges (boost, fuel psi, oil psi)
  • AEM wideband
  • Greddy turbo timer
  • Manual boost controller
  • Greddy Emanage Ultimate ECM
February 2020

List of items I have already purchased, waiting to be installed on the car:
  • Haltech Elite 2500 + Boomslang PnP Harness
  • Walbro 525lph Fuel Pump
  • FID1300cc Injectors
  • Xcessive Manufacturing DBW Delete
  • ATI Crank Pulley
  • Billet Tensioner
  • OS Giken Twin Disc Clutch (Defective, had to be exchanged for a Southbend Stage 3)
  • ARP Flywheel Bolts
  • PTE 6466 Gen2 .82 A/R Turbo
  • BC 272 - Stage 3 cams & BC valvetrain package
  • Turbo Blanket
  • Miscellaneous stuff (crank seal, cam seal, Gates Racing belt, etc.)
  • Flex Fuel Sensor
  • CSF Radiator (OEM rad was leaking)
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That’s a lot of good parts to start with, and a nice upcoming upgrade list too. I’d suggest a bigger intercooler, the current one looks small and you won’t want to choke that 6466. May be OK, I don’t know the specs, but it looks undersized.

You’ll want to go aftermarket springs/retainers/locks with those cams, so factor those in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That’s a lot of good parts to start with, and a nice upcoming upgrade list too. I’d suggest a bigger intercooler, the current one looks small and you won’t want to choke that 6466. May be OK, I don’t know the specs, but it looks undersized.

You’ll want to go aftermarket springs/retainers/locks with those cams, so factor those in.
Hey Kris! Yeah the intercooler has me a little sketched out - is there one that you recommend for high HP applications that typically 'fits' well on our cars? Yep, I've got the springs and retainers as well from BC - I'll add that into my parts list haha.
 

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I wish I had one to recommend. I am using the CX racing intercooler...it keeps my charge temps close to ambient, but I sometimes wonder if it’s too restrictive as well. I have a BW 6268, so pretty similar to the PT you’re going with. The CX fits nicely behind the bash bar, but flow-wise I don’t know how efficient it is. User Akrilo posted on here awhile back that he had the CX and switched to a mishimoto and picked up some hp that was being left on the table by the CX.

I figured you had the springs/retainers but wanted to make sure. If you’re installing the cams yourself, get a decent digital micrometer. When you take out the stock cams to do the springs & retainers, pop each shim off its bucket and measure with the micrometer, then put them back in their respective wells. Then reinstall the BC cams according to the manual & cam card. You’ll take a feeler gauge measurement between the shim bucket and cam lobe at this point and record the finding. Since you wrote down what each shim was earlier, you can do a little math and determine what size shim to buy to satisfy the manufacturer clearance specs. It gets tiresome with all the timing belt installing and removing, so you want to streamline it as much as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wish I had one to recommend. I am using the CX racing intercooler...it keeps my charge temps close to ambient, but I sometimes wonder if it’s too restrictive as well. I have a BW 6268, so pretty similar to the PT you’re going with. The CX fits nicely behind the bash bar, but flow-wise I don’t know how efficient it is. User Akrilo posted on here awhile back that he had the CX and switched to a mishimoto and picked up some hp that was being left on the table by the CX.

I figured you had the springs/retainers but wanted to make sure. If you’re installing the cams yourself, get a decent digital micrometer. When you take out the stock cams to do the springs & retainers, pop each shim off its bucket and measure with the micrometer, then put them back in their respective wells. Then reinstall the BC cams according to the manual & cam card. You’ll take a feeler gauge measurement between the shim bucket and cam lobe at this point and record the finding. Since you wrote down what each shim was earlier, you can do a little math and determine what size shim to buy to satisfy the manufacturer clearance specs. It gets tiresome with all the timing belt installing and removing, so you want to streamline it as much as possible.
How big is the CX one you're using and how much power are you pushing with your current setup? The Intercooler I have is supposedly from the old BoostLogic NA-T kits, some of which I know were making upwards of 500-550whp but I won't be sure of how restrictive it truly is until we hit the dyno for our tuning session. Thank you so much for the tip re: the cams!
 

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YW, if you have any questions about the cam install, I can probably answer them. I read/researched quite a bit before I did it. I found the “rope down the spark plug hole to keep the valves from falling in” a good trick. It’s not hard, just meticulous measuring and repetitive -stock cams out + measure old shims, new cams in + belt on + measure, new cams out + belt off + reshim, new cams in + belt on haha.

I’d have to measure the CX, it’s not real big. As far as hp, dunno that either. Never had it on a dyno...it’s road tuned. Stock block VVTi GTE, s362sxe, GSC S1. I was having a boost creep issue after the cams but we’ve narrowed it to either my wastegate muffler or the boost solenoid programming because I can run spring pressure just fine. I’m set up for e85 but yet to be tuned, so I’d wager around mid 400’s on pump 91.

That OSG clutch is a work of art, btw ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
YW, if you have any questions about the cam install, I can probably answer them. I read/researched quite a bit before I did it. I found the “rope down the spark plug hole to keep the valves from falling in” a good trick. It’s not hard, just meticulous measuring and repetitive -stock cams out + measure old shims, new cams in + belt on + measure, new cams out + belt off + reshim, new cams in + belt on haha.

I’d have to measure the CX, it’s not real big. As far as hp, dunno that either. Never had it on a dyno...it’s road tuned. Stock block VVTi GTE, s362sxe, GSC S1. I was having a boost creep issue after the cams but we’ve narrowed it to either my wastegate muffler or the boost solenoid programming because I can run spring pressure just fine. I’m set up for e85 but yet to be tuned, so I’d wager around mid 400’s on pump 91.

That OSG clutch is a work of art, btw ?
Thanks! Hope you sort that out man, I know what a royal PITA it is chasing the little things haha. Did you street tune the car itself or get it tuned by someone?

The clutch is so beautiful, I can't watch to give it a rip once everything is installed - I've heard good things about its daily drivability for it being a twin disc and all
 

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Discussion Starter #10
March 2020

Car is currently in the shop getting everything installed. Unfortunately the Twin Disc Clutch was defective from factory and is not engaging/allowing us to put the car in any of the gears. I'm going to return the Twin Disc for a refund and go with a Southbend Stage 3+ (rated for 550 ft/lbs of torque) that my supplier has in stock - hopefully it will be good enough for my needs. Also ended up picking up a Flex Fuel/E85 Sensor - guess I might as well have the ability to run pump or race gas with everything I'm doing to the IS.

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Also still running the stock brakes on my IS and I'll definitely need to increase the stopping power. I was debating whether I should go with the Supra TT Calipers which I know is a common upgrade or a BBK of some sort. I found a guy on instagram (@overkill_engineering) who sells adapters to make the 6 Piston Brembo Calipers from the Porsche Cayenne fit onto the IS with the use of a 2013-2018 GS350 F-Sport rotor so I went ahead and pulled the trigger on that. Working to source the calipers, rotors and pads + required hardware and hopefully I'll be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
April 2020

Got my hands on the Rotors & Pads for the 17z Brembo BBK. Waiting on the bracket to ship from Overkill Engineering. Still need to order RCA's, Rotors and Hardware. Also going to get the calipers powdercoated Acid Green or Yellow and refinished with a brembo decal. If anyone is interested in doing the 17z 6-piston BBK here is the link: IS300 Parts List
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Dude those are some beastly calipers! I’m running the IS350 4 pistons and they’re pretty good sized, but damn haha! I want to seethem mounted up, what wheels are are going to use?

Sucks about your OSG clutch, hate to hear that. The Supra guys talk good about the Southbend stuff so I think you’ll be good to go there. Make sure you do the clutch cancel mod because of the higher clamp force on that single disc. You dont want to invite crank walk.

I had to take my wastegate muffler off mine. After the cam install it was causing too much resistance and making me to hit boost cut @22psi ?. No boost cut now but I hate how atmospheric dump sounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dude those are some beastly calipers! I’m running the IS350 4 pistons and they’re pretty good sized, but damn haha! I want to seethem mounted up, what wheels are are going to use?

Sucks about your OSG clutch, hate to hear that. The Supra guys talk good about the Southbend stuff so I think you’ll be good to go there. Make sure you do the clutch cancel mod because of the higher clamp force on that single disc. You dont want to invite crank walk.

I had to take my wastegate muffler off mine. After the cam install it was causing too much resistance and making me to hit boost cut @22psi ?. No boost cut now but I hate how atmospheric dump sounds.
I can't wait to get the calipers on - it'll likely happen once I get the car back since I'll need to make sure everything fits when it comes to the clearances and I obviously want to do all of the necessary grinding work BEFORE I send it off to get powdercoated haha. The wheels are going to be 18x8.5 +22 and 18x9.5+35 TE37's.

Yeah man it was a real setback because the clutch was sort of the final piece of the puzzle before getting the dyno rented and scheduling time with the tuner. Ordering the southbend + having to deal with the return on the twin disc was just cumbersome and threw a wrench in the timeline. I've heard good things about southbend from what I've read online and the clutch I previously had in the car was apparently a southbend as well - which I had no complaints about.

I haven't heard about the clutch cancel mod before - care to explain how I would go about doing that?

Also going to be holding off on the cam install + e85 sensor - the builder advised against doing that until I get a stronger transmission because he's had 3 R154's blow up on him in his personal cars and he doesn't want me to suffer the same fate haha. I'm hoping I can hit somewhere around the 500-550whp mark with the setup I have.
 

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Before you pull the trigger on the TE37s have a look at the exact wheels you’ll be buying, from memory in those sizes the +22 is more concave than the flatter face +35s so it might look odd with the concave in the front and flat face on the rear, a safer bet might be get ~+30-+32 on the front and get a wider tyre so the wheel faces look the same front and rear. I’m just going from memory but its worth checking before you drop 3-5k in wheels.
 

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I wasn’t aware of using those calipers was a possibility or I totally would have went that route haha. I’m jealous! Amazing what some guys with a CAD program and CNC can do. Where will you have to clearance? For the rotor inside the caliper?

Clutch cancel is where you put a momentary switch in the clutch safety circuit. It lets you start the car without pushing in the clutch ( have to have the shifter in neutral of course). When the car sits and the oil drains down to the sump, you lose the lubrication that is there when the engine is running and pressurizing the oiling system. So when you push that heavy clutch without lube , it causes wear to the mains and thrust bearings. And eventually you get axial displacement (fore and aft) of the crank and it ruins the block and crank. So you want to get that mod ASAP. You can use a clutch cancel switch from like a 90s Tacoma. It will fit in the stock area where the seat memory switch and “coin holder” goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Before you pull the trigger on the TE37s have a look at the exact wheels you’ll be buying, from memory in those sizes the +22 is more concave than the flatter face +35s so it might look odd with the concave in the front and flat face on the rear, a safer bet might be get ~+30-+32 on the front and get a wider tyre so the wheel faces look the same front and rear. I’m just going from memory but its worth checking before you drop 3-5k in wheels.

I totally should have checked that but I already pulled the trigger on them haha, I got a somewhat decent deal on them considering they were $3.3K CAD. I'm going to take a look and see, I always thought it was the width of the wheel that correlated with the concavity of it and not the offset itself but I might be mistaken.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I wasn’t aware of using those calipers was a possibility or I totally would have went that route haha. I’m jealous! Amazing what some guys with a CAD program and CNC can do. Where will you have to clearance? For the rotor inside the caliper?

Clutch cancel is where you put a momentary switch in the clutch safety circuit. It lets you start the car without pushing in the clutch ( have to have the shifter in neutral of course). When the car sits and the oil drains down to the sump, you lose the lubrication that is there when the engine is running and pressurizing the oiling system. So when you push that heavy clutch without lube , it causes wear to the mains and thrust bearings. And eventually you get axial displacement (fore and aft) of the crank and it ruins the block and crank. So you want to get that mod ASAP. You can use a clutch cancel switch from like a 90s Tacoma. It will fit in the stock area where the seat memory switch and “coin holder” goes.
Yeah man! I had no idea either until I just happened to find OE's Instagram page - I was honestly going to do the Supra TT Calipers and just call it a day but this made more sense from a bang for buck standpoint (and 6 pistons are going to look so badass). The 17z's are also ridiculously light for how large they are, it's witchcraft.

In terms of the Clutch Cancel, that makes absolute sense - I can't believe I haven't heard of that before from any of the local IS300 guys. I'll definitely look into it, thank you for the advice!
 
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