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Discussion Starter #221
Question for those in this thread. I have a single turbo IS300 with the Y38 diff and the gearing is terrible with my V160. The stock rear end from a TT Supra is 3.133, this one is 4.1 right? Can we change the gearing in this rear end? I need more top end..
I installed 3.58 into my diff. Just got her re-installed yesterday. That's about as low as you can go with these diffs. That ratio is getting hard to come by these days. If you can get it, get it soon because you can only get them as good used gears.

http://www.driftmotion.com/DM-MK3-29-Spline-Ring-and-Pinion-Diff-Kit-p/dm3462.htm

Is where I got my 3.58 gears.

A manual diff on the IS300 is 3.73 which while not great is better than the 4.1 you have now. An NA IS would benefit from the 4.1 gears you have. Maybe you could find someone to swap with?

Or will some good ol' brake cleaner and a wire brush work out to scrub off the surface rust?
A shop wouldn't bother to clean this. If's just minor surface rust on cast iron. If I still wanted to clean it, I'd use a wire brush or rolloc disk.
 

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How would a shop do it? Wouldn't you need a new ring and pinion for it?

Yeah you can hit it with the brake cleaner. You can also pick up one of those fancy high capacity diff covers for it off ebay for like 70 bucks.
Lol yeah I was looking at those eBay specials today for high capacity diff covers. $70 vs $400 for a stamp is a helluva deal.


A shop wouldn't bother to clean this. If's just minor surface rust on cast iron. If I still wanted to clean it, I'd use a wire brush or rolloc disk.
I was asking for myself, since I like to get my hands dirty and wrench on the car myself.

I have a few brass brushes somewhere that I could use but I was more curious on what type of cleaning solutions to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #223
$70 vs $400 for a stamp is a helluva deal.
There's nothing wrong with the stock cover, then again I'd not spend $400 for one of these large capacity ones either. If you look closely, you can see how the $70 ones aren't made as well. I'd probably stick to OEM before I went Chinesium.

but I was more curious on what type of cleaning solutions to use.
Rust isn't really something you clean. You scrape the loose stuff off with a wire brush and either paint over or chemically treat the metal. Something like POR5 is a good anti-rust coating.
 

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There's nothing wrong with the stock cover, then again I'd not spend $400 for one of these large capacity ones either. If you look closely, you can see how the $70 ones aren't made as well. I'd probably stick to OEM before I went Chinesium.

Rust isn't really something you clean. You scrape the loose stuff off with a wire brush and either paint over or chemically treat the metal. Something like POR5 is a good anti-rust coating.
Yeah I read an old thread while looking up torque specs and came across a guy being one of the first guinea pigs to test out an eBay high capacity cover. Apparently he seemed to love it for it's stylish looks and bling! I'm more of a function guy, so I can really care less about how it looks UNDER the car where people can BARELY see it, and having a higher volume doesn't really benefit me anyways since my car is stock.

Just looked up the POR5 stuff you mentioned and all their other products. Looks like they have a couple things that I can actually use to clean up/restore this car (and the diff) I've been working on. Thanks for that recommendation, I think this will be perfect for what I need!
 

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Discussion Starter #225
I had all the guts out of the trunk and looked down at the sides of the trunk. Rust was hiding down there. I pulled the rubber plugs, cleaned up as much as I could then POR15's the rest. The rust hasn't come back. It's been a couple years.

POR15 has 2 potential problems.

1 - It doesn't like to be exposed to sunlight. It'll discolor.
2 - Its temperature range isn't that high. You just have to watch out around the exhaust.

It's nasty stuff. I use gloves and disposable brushes because once it sets, it doesn't like to come off.
 

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I had all the guts out of the trunk and looked down at the sides of the trunk. Rust was hiding down there. I pulled the rubber plugs, cleaned up as much as I could then POR15's the rest. The rust hasn't come back. It's been a couple years.

POR15 has 2 potential problems.

1 - It doesn't like to be exposed to sunlight. It'll discolor.
2 - Its temperature range isn't that high. You just have to watch out around the exhaust.

It's nasty stuff. I use gloves and disposable brushes because once it sets, it doesn't like to come off.

That's all good to know, I'll have to look at that when I have other projects that require the anti-rust paint.

What really caught my attention was the degreaser they had. A little off topic from cleaning the diff I have up, but I think it'll help with some cleaning up of the oil gunk I have caked on the engine block, oil pan, and other various areas from a massive VVTI oil leak.
 

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What up homies... tired of one wheel drifting lol. need both firing... i see a 2013 frs Y38 diff on ebay and im about to drop $350 on it but just want to make sure its gonna work on my 2004 lexus is 300 automatic... i know im gonna have to finnese the install with some washers but will it work? Yes or nah
 

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What up homies... tired of one wheel drifting lol. need both firing... i see a 2013 frs Y38 diff on ebay and im about to drop $350 on it but just want to make sure its gonna work on my 2004 lexus is 300 automatic... i know im gonna have to finnese the install with some washers but will it work? Yes or nah
Yes. Washers or drill to get it to bolt up. Or replace the bushings.
 

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Anyone experience a clunking sound after the install? I installed the Y38 using the washer method. Worked well for a few hundred miles. Then started clunking, now it's pretty frequent. Happens when I step on the accelerator in low speed. If I accelerate lightly the clunking is not as noticeable.

Diff had 30k and looked in great condition prior to install. Please lmk if you know how to fix this issue. It's still driveable but getting to be really annoying and I'm afraid will eventually fail.

TIA
 

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Anyone experience a clunking sound after the install? I installed the Y38 using the washer method. Worked well for a few hundred miles. Then started clunking, now it's pretty frequent. Happens when I step on the accelerator in low speed. If I accelerate lightly the clunking is not as noticeable.

Diff had 30k and looked in great condition prior to install. Please lmk if you know how to fix this issue. It's still driveable but getting to be really annoying and I'm afraid will eventually fail.

TIA
Pinion and ring gear mesh is off. You are wearing your gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #232
I'd get back under there and re-tighten the mount bolts. While it's in the air, feel how much play there is when you turn the driveshaft back and forth. I'd be more inclined to think something is loose than that the diff is failing.

I'd verify you filled it with fluid too.
 

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I'd get back under there and re-tighten the mount bolts. While it's in the air, feel how much play there is when you turn the driveshaft back and forth. I'd be more inclined to think something is loose than that the diff is failing.

I'd verify you filled it with fluid too.

Should be tight, I'll go over it again this or next weekend. Filled with Mobil 1 75w-90. Hope it's just a simple fix
 

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Reset the pinion depth.
Uh oh...that sounds complicated & expensive. hope that's not the problem. Funny thing is, the clunk is more pronounced in manual mode. In auto, I hardly notice it. been leaving it in auto mode until I find out exactly the problem.
 
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