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Discussion Starter #1
Im running out of ideas. A month ago, my front right caliper seized and would not release. i had to drive it for four days until the replacement caliper got here. There was no pull to the right at that point. There was tons of brake dust on the right front wheel. I replaced the right front caliper and the pull to the right started at that point. Now I did not replace the akebono brake pads with the caliper. Made me wonder if the front left was not functioning, so I replaced that caliper too. Same brand. Pull to the right is still there. I have recently changed wheel bearings, LBJs tie rods, and recent alignment, the glide pins are free and lubed.

so I ordered and replace the rubber flex hoses on the front with stoptech SS lines. The pull is still there. I just ordered new pads today. What am I left with? Master cylinder and ABS system. How do I diagnose the problem? Just to be clear, I get an instant pull to the right and sustained braking it goes back to even-braking, no pull.
 

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Im running out of ideas. A month ago, my front right caliper seized and would not release. i had to drive it for four days until the replacement caliper got here. There was no pull to the right at that point. There was tons of brake dust on the right front wheel. I replaced the right front caliper and the pull to the right started at that point. Now I did not replace the akebono brake pads with the caliper. Made me wonder if the front left was not functioning, so I replaced that caliper too. Same brand. Pull to the right is still there. I have recently changed wheel bearings, LBJs tie rods, and recent alignment, the glide pins are free and lubed.

so I ordered and replace the rubber flex hoses on the front with stoptech SS lines. The pull is still there. I just ordered new pads today. What am I left with? Master cylinder and ABS system. How do I diagnose the problem? Just to be clear, I get an instant pull to the right and sustained braking it goes back to even-braking, no pull.
I assume the pull is when you use the brakes. Did you replace the rotors and pads? Also you should replace the guide pins. Did this start all of a sudden?
 

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no. The rotors are not warped. The pads are half worn. Just ordered new pads. The pull happens when you first push the brake pedal.
Warped rotors is not the issue. The reason I say new rotors. Is I have seen uneven wear for side to side. On the rotor and from one side of the vehicle to the other. Cause an issue.

Next, I assume when bleeding the system. You had good flow from the caliper bleeder. Did you bleed the Accumulator pump?

Also, when mashing the pedal. Does it travel a normal amount? Does it make any noise?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I bled the calipers, not the accumulator pump. Fluid flows nicely. The pedal goes the full stroke with no noises. The plan this Friday is to have the rotors cut and install new pads.

Im begining to think its the master cyl failing. How difficult is that to diy.? The ABS bleeding and all.

are there any good videos to watch on it?
 

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I bled the calipers, not the accumulator pump. Fluid flows nicely. The pedal goes the full stroke with no noises. The plan this Friday is to have the rotors cut and install new pads.

Im begining to think its the master cyl failing. How difficult is that to diy.? The ABS bleeding and all.

are there any good videos to watch on it?
It is not fun. It goes a lot easier with a pressure bleeder.

If it is flowing well. I do not think it is a master cylinder issue.

Turn the rotors, new pads, and new pins with lube.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So a new symptom has started. As I press the brake pedal, it sticks and then moves. Feels like the master cyl shaft is binding And corroded. I ordered a new master cyl to replace it. Im guessing that our brake systems are cross matched front Left / rear Right on the same circuit and visa versa. and my left front isnt getting the full force of the master cyl Stroke. At 283,000 miles it cant live forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I ordered a Wagner MC from rockauto. It wasnt clear if it was new or reman, but the listing did not say remanufactuer. The part arrived and I think it may be a brand new Aisin MC. It has a clean ink stamp on the body. If its new, $170 is a great price for oem part.
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Discussion Starter #11
I have lost faith in reman parts. They fail much sooner than new. I’m Just glad that I did not have to buy Centric. now Im waiting for my Motive bleeder to arrive and get started with the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did you check your rear calipers to see if one was frozen?
Yes. I just replaced both rear wheel bearings last month and both rear calipers are still moving freely.

not sure if I mentioned this, I use Akebono ceramic pads. The right front wheel is heaviky covered in brake dust compared to the other 3 wheels. Either the front right is doing all the braking or the MC is preventing it from retracting.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got it done this weekend. New Stop Tech stainless flex lines, new MC and flushed the system including the ABS block. One issue I had was with the Motive pressure bleeder, it would only pump up to 5 psi. what I had to do was connect the universal adapter to my 1 gal air compressor set at 15 psi. I will need to return the Motive pump unit for a replacement. It was brand new. Otherwise it went smoothly. I still need to install the new akebono front pads and test drive it.

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Discussion Starter #15
A question for those who installed the stoptech SS lines. What did you torque the banjoe bolt to? FSM says 22# but mine still leaked. 25# worked for me. The wahers kept crushing at 25#. How much is too much?
 

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A question for those who installed the stoptech SS lines. What did you torque the banjoe bolt to? FSM says 22# but mine still leaked. 25# worked for me. The wahers kept crushing at 25#. How much is too much?
Look at your mating surface on the calipers. It may be uneven or pitted. Have run across that a few times.
 
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