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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I had my brake booster go out. After paying 500 to replace it, I have this problem now. Anybody know what it might be? I got a diagnostic somewhere else and they said it was the module. I just don't know if they tried bleeding the module. Or just said its that.
Definitely try the pressure bleed. After I pressure bled mine my problem has pretty much gone away. It still happens once in while but I think I need to do one more bleed to get the last bit of air out.
 

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If power bleeding did not fix it. Check the adjustment on the pedal brake switch.
I had two different mechanics tell me that my abs module is on its way out . The thing I'm confused about is that I don't get an ABS light. Just a brake light. They claimed to have inspected and cleaned all my abs wheel sensors and checked if it's the master cylinder. They say rhey are certain it's the abs module. I have a friend who works at Toyota that is going to confirm if you actually have to reflash one from a different VIN if I get a used one. The best deal I've found on this repair is 850 USD. They claim they will rebuild my OEM module , and reinstall and guarantee it. It's just weird that no abs light comes on. The only reason I'm highly considering this route is bc the module I got for 50 is obviously used , and idk if it's really good. if it is, they can lie and tell me it didn't work so I pay them to "fix" something that isn't there.. also , rebuilding my own will save me the hassle of having to reflash. Also, I've heard many people say how they've never heard of the ABS going bad on an IS300 ... smh :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I had two different mechanics tell me that my abs module is on its way out . The thing I'm confused about is that I don't get an ABS light. Just a brake light. They claimed to have inspected and cleaned all my abs wheel sensors and checked if it's the master cylinder. They say rhey are certain it's the abs module. I have a friend who works at Toyota that is going to confirm if you actually have to reflash one from a different VIN if I get a used one. The best deal I've found on this repair is 850 USD. They claim they will rebuild my OEM module , and reinstall and guarantee it. It's just weird that no abs light comes on. The only reason I'm highly considering this route is bc the module I got for 50 is obviously used , and idk if it's really good. if it is, they can lie and tell me it didn't work so I pay them to "fix" something that isn't there.. also , rebuilding my own will save me the hassle of having to reflash. Also, I've heard many people say how they've never heard of the ABS going bad on an IS300 ... smh :(
I never got an AbS light. Only the red brake light. I would try to do 2 things before you change the module. First pressure bleed, make sure you get it over 15psi and open the bleeder on the abs block. Get someone who has Techstream to scan it and show us your codes. Where are you located? There are a lot of people on here and Facebook has a few groups where you can probably find someone who would help you scan it.
 

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I never got an AbS light. Only the red brake light. I would try to do 2 things before you change the module. First pressure bleed, make sure you get it over 15psi and open the bleeder on the abs block. Get someone who has Techstream to scan it and show us your codes. Where are you located? There are a lot of people on here and Facebook has a few groups where you can probably find someone who would help you scan it.
Thanks for replying. I am located in Chino, CA. I called the shop it was at for the diagnostic and they said that they didn't get any codes and that it didn't have any codes stored from before . Is that normal ? Or possible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks for replying. I am located in Chino, CA. I called the shop it was at for the diagnostic and they said that they didn't get any codes and that it didn't have any codes stored from before . Is that normal ? Or possible?
Same here. It wasn’t until I plugged into Techstream that I was able to get anything. A friend of mine owns a small car dealership and service facility. He has several different computers and none of them were able to pull codes. Toyota/Lexus has their own stuff you can only see with Techstream. I am sure you can find someone in chino who can scan your cars ABS with Techstream and get codes. Try the pressure bleed too. What year is your IS?
 

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If you can run the scan on the abs/vsc tab I’m curious to know what shows up in Techstream. I bought my IS and had it towed to my house. The MC was locked up and the booster was hissing. I ordered a Lexus Master Cylinder and aftermarket booster. I changed it all out but abs has this problem since.
Hey Mikey, so i finally got around to using the motive powerbleeder on the abs pump and although it helped and the braking feels better, i got my same problem again. Did you ever fix it completely by pressure bleeding it and stuff bcuz im going to try and do it again later on. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hey Mikey, so i finally got around to using the motive powerbleeder on the abs pump and although it helped and the braking feels better, i got my same problem again. Did you ever fix it completely by pressure bleeding it and stuff bcuz im going to try and do it again later on. Thank you
So I was talking to another member on here and he had e same problem we had. He replaced his booster with one from a local store. A brakebest brand I believe. He tried everything and finally went for a used one from an old is and his problem went away. Apparently a lot of these aftermarket boosters are single diaphragm and the factory are dual. I bought a brand called SKP for my replacement booster and I think this where my problem came from. I just finished installing a Cardone remanufactured booster that is dual diaphragm and already my pedal feels way better. Doing the bleed process today as I removed the master cylinder to make install easier. I think you should look at your brake booster or a vacuum leak causing your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
So I was talking to another member on here and he had e same problem we had. He replaced his booster with one from a local store. A brakebest brand I believe. He tried everything and finally went for a used one from an old is and his problem went away. Apparently a lot of these aftermarket boosters are single diaphragm and the factory are dual. I bought a brand called SKP for my replacement booster and I think this where my problem came from. I just finished installing a Cardone remanufactured booster that is dual diaphragm and already my pedal feels way better. Doing the bleed process today as I removed the master cylinder to make install easier. I think you should look at your brake booster or a vacuum leak causing your problem.
Solved

So I just did the bleed procedure and took it on a few test drives. All codes in Techstream are gone. No brake light. Pedal feels really good. And for comparison I did the master cylinder sensor 1 pressure test and it went from a peak of 1.19v with the SKP single diaphragm booster to 1.71v with the new Cardone reman dual diaphragm booster. Look at your booster or a vacuum leak going to it. Stay with OEM Lexus booster or find a quality aftermarket dual diaphragm booster to fix this issue.
 

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So I was talking to another member on here and he had e same problem we had. He replaced his booster with one from a local store. A brakebest brand I believe. He tried everything and finally went for a used one from an old is and his problem went away. Apparently a lot of these aftermarket boosters are single diaphragm and the factory are dual. I bought a brand called SKP for my replacement booster and I think this where my problem came from. I just finished installing a Cardone remanufactured booster that is dual diaphragm and already my pedal feels way better. Doing the bleed process today as I removed the master cylinder to make install easier. I think you should look at your brake booster or a vacuum leak causing your problem.
Thanks Mikey I appreciate the response, the problem with my is is that i bought it from a private seller a bit ago and they said they replaced the master cylinder and brake booster at a good mechanic shop so ill make sure to check that out. Let me know how it goes for you.
 

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Solved

So I just did the bleed procedure and took it on a few test drives. All codes in Techstream are gone. No brake light. Pedal feels really good. And for comparison I did the master cylinder sensor 1 pressure test and it went from a peak of 1.19v with the SKP single diaphragm booster to 1.71v with the new Cardone reman dual diaphragm booster. Look at your booster or a vacuum leak going to it. Stay with OEM Lexus booster or find a quality aftermarket dual diaphragm booster to fix this issue.
Ok thank you so much ill keep posting here as i resolve stuff but i really think this could be it since the previous owners put in a aftermarket booster which probably isn’t good
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thanks Mikey I appreciate the response, the problem with my is is that i bought it from a private seller a bit ago and they said they replaced the master cylinder and brake booster at a good mechanic shop so ill make sure to check that out. Let me know how it goes for you.
Ok thank you so much ill keep posting here as i resolve stuff but i really think this could be it since the previous owners put in a aftermarket booster which probably isn’t good
can you see who makes you booster? As soon as I changed mine to the one in there now I could immediately feel the difference.
 

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@Mikeywilz and I have been talking about this for months, and the booster solved it for both of us. Like he said above, single diaphragm boosters will not work! New boosters must be DUAL diaphragm.
below are pictures of the single vs dual. Left is single, right is dual. OEM or DUAL diaphragm only.
Automotive tire Light Automotive lighting Bell Gas
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Alloy wheel Bumper Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yes 💯. I have now put over 100 miles in stop and go traffic on my new Cardone dual diaphragm booster and not a single brake light or ABS pulse. My pedal feel and brakes are great. Way better than my Camry that has only 30k miles on it!! This solved the problem. Glad you found the answer William. Hopefully people in the future with the same problem read this thread to the end and it helps them too! This is how forums are supposed to work. I get annoyed when people don’t come back to tel how they fixed their car and leave everyone with the same problem guessing.
 

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@Mikeywilz and I have been talking about this for months, and the booster solved it for both of us. Like he said above, single diaphragm boosters will not work! New boosters must be DUAL diaphragm.
below are pictures of the single vs dual. Left is single, right is dual. OEM or DUAL diaphragm only.
View attachment 138740 View attachment 138741
YESSS! This is making me even more excited to get my new brake booster in. By the looks of the comparison, I can tell mine is definitely a damn single diaphragm piece of crap.
 

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Yes 💯. I have now put over 100 miles in stop and go traffic on my new Cardone dual diaphragm booster and not a single brake light or ABS pulse. My pedal feel and brakes are great. Way better than my Camry that has only 30k miles on it!! This solved the problem. Glad you found the answer William. Hopefully people in the future with the same problem read this thread to the end and it helps them too! This is how forums are supposed to work. I get annoyed when people don’t come back to tel how they fixed their car and leave everyone with the same problem guessing.
Hey Mikey, finally put in the cardone brake booster into the is and wow the difference and excitement. I have only drove it like 2 miles around my block but I can already tell the problem is fixed. I am gonna keep driving it in a bit but thank you so much for the tips on solving this issue and to William.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hey Mikey, finally put in the cardone brake booster into the is and wow the difference and excitement. I have only drove it like 2 miles around my block but I can already tell the problem is fixed. I am gonna keep driving it in a bit but thank you so much for the tips on solving this issue and to William.
I have gone almost 300 miles and my new booster starting hissing by the pedal. I got the “brake” light once now. I think the rubber diaphragm inside already ruptured. I’m so tired of the damn booster. lol. I contacted rock auto abs am getting another one sent out. There was an is that come into the junkyard by me and I knew I should’ve got the booster out of it. I thought this fixed it (and hopefully I just got a bad booster this time) but someone came to the junkyard and took the whole car!!! I can’t even get any parts from it now. I hope yours stays fixed and mine was just a bad remanufactured booster. The Cardone warranty is 18 months 30,000 miles so they are pretty solid. Most only give 90 days 3000 miles.
 

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I have gone almost 300 miles and my new booster starting hissing by the pedal. I got the “brake” light once now. I think the rubber diaphragm inside already ruptured. I’m so tired of the damn booster. lol. I contacted rock auto abs am getting another one sent out. There was an is that come into the junkyard by me and I knew I should’ve got the booster out of it. I thought this fixed it (and hopefully I just got a bad booster this time) but someone came to the junkyard and took the whole car!!! I can’t even get any parts from it now. I hope yours stays fixed and mine was just a bad remanufactured booster. The Cardone warranty is 18 months 30,000 miles so they are pretty solid. Most only give 90 days 3000 miles.
Oh god dont tell me that. That sucks man i hope you get a fix for yours soon. My is is my daily and like i fixed it yesterday i really hope it holds up. Thanks for the heads up
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Oh god dont tell me that. That sucks man i hope you get a fix for yours soon. My is is my daily and like i fixed it yesterday i really hope it holds up. Thanks for the heads up
The good news is the proper booster worked and fixed the issue. The bad news is I have to change the booster for the 3rd time when the replacement gets here. Hopefully I’m done after that.
 
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