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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
TE black box installation

First off yes i did search all i found were people talking about the black box the closes thing i found was a diagram for 2001 is. I'm looking for a te blackbox diagram for 02 and up and te black box has a 6 wire harness. If anyone can help that would be great thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not sure i'm buying it from a member here. I gotta ask him though but it looks right. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i'm assuming the black and the red wire are getting spliced into the wire. and the black yellow and blue white wires are cut completly and connected to the black box.
 

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Mysterious Black Box and Dyno Tuning

Hey everyone. After a very lengthy search, I found a shop here in the SA area that sounded like they really might be able to tune out the stumbling and idle probs I was having for quite some time. Anyway, My car gained 50 horses from the work they did, but this is what the new prob is:

Black Box: First off, what EXACTLY is this thing? (Please, someone answer this question, or direct me to a link that will break it all down.) The shop that put this on my car at the time of turbo install told me it would keep the ECU from relearning. Well, today at the tune, not knowing what the hell it did exactly, we all agreed to disconnect it. I had a perpetual CEL Po125 for the O2 going on since the turbo was installed. The tuners today felt that it might have been interfering with their ability to properly tune my car, so we disconnected it.

CEL and TRAC lights: Not long after that, the TRAC light joined the party and drew everyone's concern. Now, I did a search on ALL of this stuff, and though some of it was helpful... much of it only left me with more questions.

MPG:
This part sux the MOST!!! I already had poor mpg before, but now I can literally watch the gauge go down.

Low End Power:
Prior to the tune, I felt a little stumbling here and there after coming out of pos boost, but now it is like my car is just straight up sick. I pretty much have to press the pedal all the way down for it to accelerate.

I am still scheduled to go for further tuning, but they suggested I replace my O2's (both front) and then come back. Due to the fact that the [email protected]'s were acting crazy,they couldn't tune for the lower RPM's. That is why i am sure it runs like crap there. But what they did for the top end is amazing!

So the question is: Before I go back,after replacing the O2's, should I, or should I not reconnect this BB thing? AND, Is the O2 prob what is causing the lights I am getting (CEL & TRAC)?

Thanks. Everyone has been more than helpful in the past!
 

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lets first start with questions for you to answer.

What turbo kit do you have?
Where did you get that black box from?
How many pounds of boost are you running?
Have you checked your spark plugs to see if they are fouled out?

Also it seems like your problem is that it's misfiring in the low end maybe from running too rich and you probably need a better tune and ignition amplifier to fix that problem (HKS DLI).
 

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change the plugs, then go from there. my car was misfiring and it was because of the plugs. are you also getting a blinking CE light?
 

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lets first start with questions for you to answer.

What turbo kit do you have?
Where did you get that black box from?
How many pounds of boost are you running?
Have you checked your spark plugs to see if they are fouled out?

Also it seems like your problem is that it's misfiring in the low end maybe from running too rich and you probably need a better tune and ignition amplifier to fix that problem (HKS DLI).
Sorry, bro. vital info that I obviously left out.

Turbo itself is a Precision Turbo. The rest in the kit is custom fabrication.

I really wish I knew where the bb came from. The guys who put the install on are more secretive than I would like. They won't tell me shit.

I am running between 6 and 7 lbs.

Spark plugs did foul out REALLY fast. So I had them replaced a month and a half ago.

I am running rich. In fact, i have always been running too damn rich, but after this tune and the disconnect of the BB, I am getting codes for multiple cylinder misfires P0300, and now the I am actually getting a code for running too rich P0175 (something that never happened before).
 

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Sorry, bro. vital info that I obviously left out.

Turbo itself is a Precision Turbo. The rest in the kit is custom fabrication.

I really wish I knew where the bb came from. The guys who put the install on are more secretive than I would like. They won't tell me shit.

I am running between 6 and 7 lbs.

Spark plugs did foul out REALLY fast. So I had them replaced a month and a half ago.

I am running rich. In fact, i have always been running too damn rich, but after this tune and the disconnect of the BB, I am getting codes for multiple cylinder misfires P0300, and now the I am actually getting a code for running too rich P0175 (something that never happened before).
Well if it never happened before then more than likely the black box cut the power to your EFI and ETCS wires in the ECU to reset the DTCs and fuel trim. Do you know what the freeze frame has for engine speed when the P0300 and P0175 got triggered?
 

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Well if it never happened before then more than likely the black box cut the power to your EFI and ETCS wires in the ECU to reset the DTCs and fuel trim. Do you know what the freeze frame has for engine speed when the P0300 and P0175 got triggered?
Might have to knock it down to "baby talk" here on this one. I am not sure what you mean by Freeze Frame.
 

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change the plugs, then go from there. my car was misfiring and it was because of the plugs. are you also getting a blinking CE light?
I guess I could change the plugs again... but seeing how I just did that about 45 days ago, I am not certain that wold make a difference. Yeah, the CEL is blinking. Then it goes solid. This is something that it was doing prior to the dyno tune, however. Not sure why (didn't have a code scan tool back then). And I never thought much about it since the first shop that I mentioned, who did the turbo install, just told me not to worry about CEL becuz it was par for the course when you had boost. :suspiciou

Also, I never had a misfire prob until after the turbo install. So I am not sure that it is a coil prob like some ppl have told me, since it wasn't an issue before. Could the car being too rich cause all of these misfires?
 

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What are you running for engine management?
Ahhh... this is the million dollar question. I have the E-manage Blue. I bought the support tool to aid in the tuning process, but there are some many dissenting opinions about the EM that I wonder what to think about the damn thing. I took a peak at the Tool while hooked up to the Main Unit on my car and saw that initially, the guys who installed it all (turbo, etc) didn't actually do anything more than put in my car's basic info... but no adjustments whatsoever. Now, even after the second shop tuned for what they could (which was the top end) I looked and the Air Values table on the Tool has everything set to run lean as hell!!! And still, I get this code for running rich.
Now I think it bears mentioning, that before they cut the BB, even with the AV's table being set to all 0's, the car at least ran moderately good. It still smelled a little rich, but I never had the trouble I am getting now. I guess that is why I am wondering whether the BB should maybe be reconnected, or not?
 

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who did the install? It could be a BB that was originally from TE which I believe could possible do more than just reset the ECU.
 

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Might have to knock it down to "baby talk" here on this one. I am not sure what you mean by Freeze Frame.
With OBD2, whenever your CEL appears there's a snap shot of your engine parameters and sensor readings (freeze frame) that caused the diagnostic trouble code (DTC). If you knew that your bank too rich occurred at lets say 700 RPM then you're idling too rich and will need to look at that part of the fuel map. If it occurred at a higher speed for arguments sake lets say 2000 RPM then look at the fuel map at 2000 RPM and at the load that corresponds with the value in the freeze frame. You'd be surprised how much information you can get from OBD2 to help tune your car better.
 

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Sounds like a whole mix of issues that would take some good trouble shooting.

The TE BB could do a number of things that we just have to guess on. It may have been jumpering the primary o2 signals to eliminate one from the piping, and you may ALSO have a bad primary o2. It could be simming the other ones down stream and it may be reseting the circuits Leo described.

Running pig rich could be fouling the plugs and causing the miss-fire, quickly after changing plugs.

Who is this shop? What EMS are you running, injectors? or is it just fuel pressure tuned?

Man just too many shots in the dark with this one, sounds like you need to take it somewhere were they know a thing or two about the IS.
 

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who did the install? It could be a BB that was originally from TE which I believe could possible do more than just reset the ECU.
A Shop here in San Antonio called Precision R. (Overall, did a decent job... just left some things unfinished. :( )
 

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With OBD2, whenever your CEL appears there's a snap shot of your engine parameters and sensor readings (freeze frame) that caused the diagnostic trouble code (DTC). If you knew that your bank too rich occurred at lets say 700 RPM then you're idling too rich and will need to look at that part of the fuel map. If it occurred at a higher speed for arguments sake lets say 2000 RPM then look at the fuel map at 2000 RPM and at the load that corresponds with the value in the freeze frame. You'd be surprised how much information you can get from OBD2 to help tune your car better.
WOW... I never thought of it that way. Well, the CEL seems to hit right around 2500 rpm and after about 30 to 60 secs of driving.

This morning, in a desperate attempt to save me some freakin' gas, I hooked up the Tool and manually set the Values for fuel to double the negs that they were already at on the range from 500 rpms to 4000, and on 50% throttle and below. I thought that logically this would cut some of the fule out and solve the prob (since they did tune for this portion <low end>), but as soon as I backed out of my garage this engine was shaking like it was in withdrawal and the CEL wasted no time in coming on.
Around 1 min into that drive and, i guess, 2500 rpms, the light went off. there's a 2 mile stretch that I go down at this point, and when I hit the stop light and took off again it came on and never went off again.
Is there anyway to use the Tool to "street tune" this prob I am having out of the system for the low end?
 

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Your not billy-bob tuning are you? What tool/ems is this? Slow down before you really destroy something.
 
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