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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Looking for opinions from the tuners on this forums. No offense to everyone else but I dont really want your opinon if you dont build or tune engines yourself. Just trying to keep this uncluttered and easy to follow for me and anyone else interested in this same setup with minimal BS.

KPONTI & MALEK that means you guys start typing ;)

Tell me what is essential to run the 272 cams. Lets just assume I have no mods at all on my Manual 2002 IS300.

Bare minimum requirements-

$ Mild build above minimum-

$$ build-

$$$$$ build-

I want to hear all available options

Alright lets hear it...

**EDIT** Please dont post about turbo kits either.
 

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You will need (MSRP):

Stage 3 Camshafts: $700
Spring / Retainer Kit: $352
Emanage Ultimate (EMU of your choice): $680

Other than that your looking a basic bolt on parts such as intakes, headers, exhaust.. By the end of this build you will realize you could have just pieced together a turbo setup and been pushing higher numbers which would be much more of a daily driver than a stage 3 IS..

The only way your going to ever really take advantage of the improvements is if you keep your RPM's up. I know everyone wants to see higher N/A numbers, but unless you rev the snot out of the IS like its a honda, your just simply not going to see the numbers you want.
 

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You will need (MSRP):

Stage 3 Camshafts: $700
Spring / Retainer Kit: $352
Emanage Ultimate (EMU of your choice): $680

Other than that your looking a basic bolt on parts such as intakes, headers, exhaust.. By the end of this build you will realize you could have just pieced together a turbo setup and been pushing higher numbers which would be much more of a daily driver than a stage 3 IS..

The only way your going to ever really take advantage of the improvements is if you keep your RPM's up. I know everyone wants to see higher N/A numbers, but unless you rev the snot out of the IS like its a honda, your just simply not going to see the numbers you want.
and there you have it... :)
 

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From a mechanical point, what you need to survive with high rpm operation on 272 cams is at the very least, upgraded springs.

From there, you want to focus on how to get the most out of the 272s.

272s will more than likely be optimized for high rpm power. IMO, there are a couple KEY complementing mods to take advantage of this.

EMU - I'm not swinging from my own nutsack here. But without this piece, the 272s would be a waste. You need an extended rev limit. You don't want the stock limiter to stop the fun right when you're in the thick of your powerband. Not to mention the fuel and timing tuning you can make with this tool which will help greatly across the whole powerband - even to minimize the loss of power in the powerband that the cam has traded off for high rpm gain.

Full Exhaust - At a minimum headers. This will greatly complement the top end breathability to the 272s.

That's really it IMO. With these mods, you could easily be breaking some NA power records. I've long wanted to do this while my car was NA.
 
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having an underdrive pulley like UR will greatly improve the response and power due to the lightened weight of the pulleys. the stock crank pulley on the car is pretty beefy. due to the nature of I6s our motors are harmonically balanced so there is really no need for a dampened pulley (extra rotating mass). im currently running a cammed JZ with about all the supporting mods and the pulleys made the difference so i would listen to the posters above me and also invest in a pulley kit to extract the most out of your motor. plus it looks kool too....hope this helps
 
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I'm not sure I would do anything much beyond that as the value for dollar begins to drop off. You're also going to begin trading off usable street torque for high strung power. I probably wouldn't touch the cylinder head for P&P, valvejobs or anything like that.

Mid level:
- Underdriving is not a bad idea, but I'd skip changing the crank pulley.
- Consider switching out the 3rd member for a higher ratio diff.
- Are you auto or manual? If manual, go lightweight flywheel.

Extreme:
- Change the intake manifold to a short runner/supra style manifold to optimize high rpm VE.
 
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Building bottom-end for a cam??? If it were a 288plus cam...I can understand. But a cam that has hardly anymore aggressive than the 264 does not need a built bottom end.

I think Paul and isPimping covered it for the most part.

TeCKis300 said:
From a mechanical point, what you need to survive with high rpm operation on 272 cams is at the very least, upgraded springs.

From there, you want to focus on how to get the most out of the 272s.

272s will more than likely be optimized for high rpm power. IMO, there are a couple KEY complementing mods to take advantage of this.

EMU - I'm not swinging from my own nutsack here. But without this piece, the 272s would be a waste. You need an extended rev limit. You don't want the stock limiter to stop the fun right when you're in the thick of your powerband. Not to mention the fuel and timing tuning you can make with this tool which will help greatly across the whole powerband - even to minimize the loss of power in the powerband that the cam has traded off for high rpm gain.

Full Exhaust - At a minimum headers. This will greatly complement the top end breathability to the 272s.

That's really it IMO. With these mods, you could easily be breaking some NA power records. I've long wanted to do this while my car was NA.
isPimping said:
You will need (MSRP):

Stage 3 Camshafts: $700
Spring / Retainer Kit: $352
Emanage Ultimate (EMU of your choice): $680

Other than that your looking a basic bolt on parts such as intakes, headers, exhaust.. By the end of this build you will realize you could have just pieced together a turbo setup and been pushing higher numbers which would be much more of a daily driver than a stage 3 IS..

The only way your going to ever really take advantage of the improvements is if you keep your RPM's up. I know everyone wants to see higher N/A numbers, but unless you rev the snot out of the IS like its a honda, your just simply not going to see the numbers you want.
 

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Mid level:
- Underdriving is not a bad idea, but I'd skip changing the crank pulley.
- Consider switching out the 3rd member for a higher ratio diff.
- Are you auto or manual? If manual, go lightweight flywheel.

Extreme:
- Change the intake manifold to a short runner/supra style manifold to optimize high rpm VE.
Just make sure you understand what an under-drive pulley does.. The IS already has a weak alternator, while I doubt under-driving it wont create drivabilty issues, don't expect to do much in the way of car audio.

Also the extreme is not a bad idea, although for the crazy amounts people are paying for these FFIM's I would just get a larger TB like the LS400 one and pair it with a short ram intake..
 

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If you want to get the most out of cam you should compliment it with head work. I'd say talk to a shop that can pnp your head. Give the cam specs, and they should match the head to your cam. But with the amount of money you will be putting into this project you may feel that the money could have been spent better. I personally would like to see this on a N/A car, but I don't think it will be cost efficient.
 

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Thanks for the responses. However impractical street driven or money wise I would still like to hear about head work and any other possible options.
I don't particularly like headwork only because it is so critical to flow. It's much easier to get wrong then to get right. And the legitamate companies will be $$$. Same with oversizing valves and multi angle valve jobs (reliability?). You might succeed in making more power at the cost of having a narrow powerband.

I'd probably stick to a mild port and polish with more focus on just blending the valve guides and cleaning up any casting imperfections.

A well engineering short runner intake manifold with venturies can do wonders. I don't think any of the off the shelf boost oriented intake manifolds would work.

You can get rid of powersteering
Get rid of A/C
****Do as much lightening of the car as possible****
Knife edge the crank


Are you intending to build a race car or fast street car?
 

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I would love to see this happen on the IS300. I built my engine around my 264 cams and I am pleased with the outcome of it. As for the 272's a higher spring rate for the valves is a must. It sure wouldnt hurt to install different valves either. If your looking for a good spring look at what supertech has to offer. A good EMU is a must with the 272's and like said before light head work should be done. I took my cylinder head cleaned it up and sanded down all the casting lines on it. I was super careful not to change the port shape while doing this as well and after I was done it came out perfect and works awesome. the ls400 TB and a good set of headers and a nice exhaust would help let the engine breath obviously which should be done. If you go with the 272's keep us posted I would be interested to see how it turns out!
 

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Just talked to the guys at bc and they said that i have everything i need for these cams. Im considering it, but i want my low end!
 

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Just talked to the guys at bc and they said that i have everything i need for these cams. Im considering it, but i want my low end!
Valve body upgrade with an upgraded torque converter, help you launch more into your power band, and the VB upgrade will help you shift faster staying in your power band.
 
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