CREDIT TO CSDSTUDIO and others who have helped me out.;
Step 1: Remove stock HU....if you don't know how to do this. Search damnit. It has been covered.
Step 2: Locate the AC wires and ignore them. Here they are.
Step 3: Locate the wire bundle that goes to the amp. Here they are.
Step 4: Locate the plug and wires that you will be working on. Here it is.
Step 5: If you cut away the black covering to this bundle, you will see a single black wire, a seperate group of wires and also a group of wires in a shielded white/green casing. It is the shielded wires that you will be working on.
Step 6. You have to peel back and cut the shielded cover so that you have enough room to cut and solder in the RCA's. I left barely enough room. You should peel back more and cut. Pin #'s are on the white base of the plug. Not all of them are labelled, but if you can count consecutively, you can prob finger it out.
You are cutting wires:
(these are for the grounds)
Red pin 19
Yellow pin 15
Brown or Black pin 18
(these are for the signal +)
white pin 9
green pin 8
Step 7:
Connect the Red, Yellow and Brown/black wire together for the ground.
Connect 2 new seperate wires to this (each one will go to 1 RCA).
Solder these 5 wires together.
Step 8:
Run the white and black wire through the base of the RCA plug.
Solder the white pin 9 wire to the center of the RCA plug.
Solder either black wire to the outer contact of the RCA plug.
You have now finished 1 RCA plug.
Repeat for the remaining green and black wire.
Now you have 2 RCA plugs.
Step 9:
Repeats Steps 7 and 8 for the opposite side (the amp input side or vice versa, whichever you didn't do already)
Step 10:
You're done.
Test it. Don't blame me if it's fockelksdlkelkjsdlkjed
Mine works fine.
From here you can get an RCA switcher from crutchfield or wherever if you want. I ran my wires to my LCD brain and am switching using my LCD screen.
Here is a simple audio switch coutesy of Drinkmalk. Please note that you are trying this free info at your own risk. I would recommend the use of a video/audio switcher, but thats me.
Originally Posted by drinkmalk
Well, it's not really an AV switch as it only switches audio but if you don't want to switch video then it doesn't matter. The instructions below are assuming you have minimal electronics knowledge so bear with me if it sounds like I'm treating you like an idiot! =) It's better to be thorough. Ok, onto the instruction.
1) Buy a 12VDC 4PDT relay. You can buy it from any electronics store. I got mine at a store called Fry's. I don't know if you have any Fry's electronics stores where you are, but that is where I got mine from. Anyway, the manufacturer for the relay I got is called NTE Inc. and the part number is R12-17A3-12B. Here is a link to the part on their website: http://www.nteinc.com/relay_web/R12.html
And here is a link to the schematics of it:
If you get a different model relay, the pins may have a slightly different layout, but you should be able to figure out how they map into my instructinos. All 4PDT relays should have 14 pins like the one above.
2) So according the the pins above:
a) pins 1-4 are for one signal input (i.e. head unit)
b) pins 5-8 are for the other signal input (i.e. AUX IN)
c) pins 9-12 are for the output (i.e. to the stock amp) and pins 13-14 are for ground and a switched 12V source, doesn't matter which is which, as long as one is ground and one is 12V.
Basically what happens is, when there is 0V across pins 13 and 14, the output, pins 9-12 will be connected to pins 1-4. If you apply 12V across pins 13 and 14, then pins 9-12 will be connected to pins 5-8.
3) Ok, so you can probably guess the rest of the instructions. Connect the head unit outputs, White(L+), Red (L-), Green(R+) and Black(R-) to pins 1-4. You can use any of the pins for L+, L-, R+, R-, just make sure you have the corresponding pins on 5-8 and 9-12 (e.g. if pin 1 is L+, pin 5 and pin 9 will be L+ as well, again, see my digram in the post). If you want your AUX IN to be the default source, then connect your AUX IN to pins 1-4 instead. Connect the other source to pins 5-8. Then connect pins 9-12 to the stock amp.
4) So, for pins 13 and 14, connect one of them to ground. For the other pin, first find a 12V switched source. A 12V switched source is a wire that is at 0V when the car is off and goes to 12V when the car is on or the key is in the Accessories switch. You can tap into the grey wire going into your headunit for th 12V switched source or use the cigarette lighter wire. There are many posts out there on how to find a 12V switched source. Connect this source to one end of a toggle button/switch (or any SPST button/switch). This will be the button/switch you use to toggle between the two inputs. Connect the other end of the toggle switch into pin 13 or 14 of the relay. Now you can mount this switch anywhere you want. I mounted it where the heated seat buttons should be under the stock radio, I don't have heated seats.
Ok, so that's about it. I hope I covered everything, if you have anymore questions, PM me.
One more thing, about connecting wires to the relay. If you end up using the relay I mentioned above, there is a nice socket adapter/mount thing for it.
Part# R95-106A(http://www.nteinc.com/relay_web/R95...pdf/assy_05.pdf) from the same manufacturer as the relay. You can also get it at Fry's. If you bought a relay from another manufacturer, they might have a similar mount. This thing basically lets you plug in your relay and connect wires via screw terminals. Made everything a lot easier and no soldering.
Quite a few people have been asking me about the AUX Input mod lately and I thought I'd just add my addenums to SophieSleeps' instructions in this sticky. Basically, to do the AUX in mod, follow SophieSleep's pictures/instructions with these changes:
- In step #6, DO NOT cut the brown or yellow wires, only cut the white, red, green, and black
- Skip step #7
- Step #8, now you should have 4 cut wires (8 leads total, 4 coming from HU, 4 going to AMP), white(L+), red(L-), green(R+), black(R-). Solder them to RCA connectors if you want, the positives leads being the inner leads of the RCA and the negative being the outer shielding. So, to spell it out, white and green goto the inner leads of each RCA, red and black goto the outter leads of each RCA.
One last thing, for the AUX input source, if the device you are using isn't already using the same ground as the car, i.e. if it's not powered by the car battery, you might want to ground the R- and L- leads of the AUX in source just to be safe. It could stop some potential noise or other problems.
Sorry to post in a sticky, but just regarding this relay, if I had 3 sources to switch between (xbox, ipod, HU), could the 4PDT be replaced with a 4P3T relay?
Im not sure if such things exist or are easily available, but would sure be cheaper than getting a AV source switcher
Does anyone know if this is what is required in order to complete an install on a Dension ice>Link: Plus adapter to the stock head unit that allows for control of the ipod through the stock head unit?
I've read this and related threads for the past hour and my head is completely spinning. The "old" way, the "new" way, switcher, relays.......
I just want to do the mod so that I can plug in my iPod and use a simple toggle to switch between the iPod and the factory HU. Is there a post somewhere that will show me the best, simplest way to accomplish this including the specific parts I'll need to purchase?
I've read this and related threads for the past hour and my head is completely spinning. The "old" way, the "new" way, switcher, relays.......
I just want to do the mod so that I can plug in my iPod and use a simple toggle to switch between the iPod and the factory HU. Is there a post somewhere that will show me the best, simplest way to accomplish this including the specific parts I'll need to purchase?
I have a satellite radio unit and would like to use the AUX input mod so that I could hard wire it. However, how would I control the volume of the satellite radio since the HU (and hence its volume control) is not effective for the AUX input?
The HU does control the volume and other audio settings for the AUX input too. All connections from the HU to the amp remain intact and active except for the R & L audio channels. The amp receives and amplifies the 'alternate' audio input but all control of the amp stays in the HU. Having a fixed-output-level second source like your sat radio is not a problem at all. It just means you might have to turn the volume up or down when you switch back and forth between sources in order to suit your volume preferences.
Here is a simple audio switch coutesy of Drinkmalk. Please note that you are trying this free info at your own risk. I would recommend the use of a video/audio switcher, but thats me.
Originally Posted by drinkmalk
Well, it's not really an AV switch as it only switches audio but if you don't want to switch video then it doesn't matter. The instructions below are assuming you have minimal electronics knowledge so bear with me if it sounds like I'm treating you like an idiot! =) It's better to be thorough. Ok, onto the instruction.
1) Buy a 12VDC 4PDT relay. You can buy it from any electronics store. I got mine at a store called Fry's. I don't know if you have any Fry's electronics stores where you are, but that is where I got mine from. Anyway, the manufacturer for the relay I got is called NTE Inc. and the part number is R12-17A3-12B. Here is a link to the part on their website: http://www.nteinc.com/relay_web/R12.html
And here is a link to the schematics of it:
If you get a different model relay, the pins may have a slightly different layout, but you should be able to figure out how they map into my instructinos. All 4PDT relays should have 14 pins like the one above.
2) So according the the pins above:
a) pins 1-4 are for one signal input (i.e. head unit)
b) pins 5-8 are for the other signal input (i.e. AUX IN)
c) pins 9-12 are for the output (i.e. to the stock amp) and pins 13-14 are for ground and a switched 12V source, doesn't matter which is which, as long as one is ground and one is 12V.
Basically what happens is, when there is 0V across pins 13 and 14, the output, pins 9-12 will be connected to pins 1-4. If you apply 12V across pins 13 and 14, then pins 9-12 will be connected to pins 5-8.
3) Ok, so you can probably guess the rest of the instructions. Connect the head unit outputs, White(L+), Red (L-), Green(R+) and Black(R-) to pins 1-4. You can use any of the pins for L+, L-, R+, R-, just make sure you have the corresponding pins on 5-8 and 9-12 (e.g. if pin 1 is L+, pin 5 and pin 9 will be L+ as well, again, see my digram in the post). If you want your AUX IN to be the default source, then connect your AUX IN to pins 1-4 instead. Connect the other source to pins 5-8. Then connect pins 9-12 to the stock amp.
4) So, for pins 13 and 14, connect one of them to ground. For the other pin, first find a 12V switched source. A 12V switched source is a wire that is at 0V when the car is off and goes to 12V when the car is on or the key is in the Accessories switch. You can tap into the grey wire going into your headunit for th 12V switched source or use the cigarette lighter wire. There are many posts out there on how to find a 12V switched source. Connect this source to one end of a toggle button/switch (or any SPST button/switch). This will be the button/switch you use to toggle between the two inputs. Connect the other end of the toggle switch into pin 13 or 14 of the relay. Now you can mount this switch anywhere you want. I mounted it where the heated seat buttons should be under the stock radio, I don't have heated seats.
Ok, so that's about it. I hope I covered everything, if you have anymore questions, PM me.
One more thing, about connecting wires to the relay. If you end up using the relay I mentioned above, there is a nice socket adapter/mount thing for it.
Part# R95-106A(http://www.nteinc.com/relay_web/R95...pdf/assy_05.pdf) from the same manufacturer as the relay. You can also get it at Fry's. If you bought a relay from another manufacturer, they might have a similar mount. This thing basically lets you plug in your relay and connect wires via screw terminals. Made everything a lot easier and no soldering.
Does anyone know where I can buy the NTE relay and socket adaptor besides Fry's and Radio Shack? I dont live anywhere near a Fry's and the Radio Shacks around here dont seem to carry them. help?
I have done this its phat, but i replaced the navi screen with a 7" lcd didnt know you could wire a aux input into it i dont know if u can but my method works well with 3tvs runnig ipod video via a alpine headunit
I have done this its phat, but i replaced the navi screen with a 7" lcd didnt know you could wire a aux input into it i dont know if u can but my method works well with 3tvs runnig ipod video via a alpine headunit
Cant seem to find the female RCA plugs around to connect to relay. Would it work if i just stripped the Y cable and connected that to the relay instead?
That would work just fine, as long as you keep your +/- straight. The female RCAs should be available in mass at all Radioshacks, although I know how helpful their employees can be...
Also, there are plenty of online parts retailers available (allelectronics.com is who I went through for my relay and socket).
im a little confused on one thing.. i understand how to wire in the 2 sets of rca's in order to run an aftermarket amp for what this sticky is about, and there is also a post in here about how to do an AUX input, what i dont understand and what i really need is to do both the 2 sets of rca's for the output and also a set for an aux input.. how do i go about doing both the input and the output
I woke This morning and My RPMs work but it won’t tell me how fast I’m going nor will it keep track of my mileage I was wondering if anyone would know what could be wrong it was working perfect yesterdaay anyone that can help me I’ll appreciate it thanks o yeah my is300 is a 2001
I woke This morning and My RPMs work but it won’t tell me how fast I’m going nor will it keep track of my mileage I was wondering if anyone would know what could be wrong it was working perfect yesterdaay anyone that can help me I’ll appreciate it thanks o yeah my is300 is a 2001
I woke This morning and My RPMs work but it won’t tell me how fast I’m going nor will it keep track of my mileage I was wondering if anyone would know what could be wrong it was working perfect yesterdaay anyone that can help me I’ll appreciate it thanks o yeah my is300 is a 2001
I recently bought my 2001 is300 and my traction control will not turn on or off and my engine light is shut off or something because even when I put my key in the ignition and turn it halfway it doesn’t show the service light but it does show the oil light battery light and door light.....if...
New to the lexus scene an i was wondering if i change my stock (01 iS300) steering wheel to an aftermarket one, can i keep my eshift if the aftermarket steering wheel has buttons?
Community dedicated to Lexus IS Enthusiasts. Come in and enjoy our articles, galleries and information on aftermarket parts for the IS300, IS250, IS350.
