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Discussion Starter #141
Curran, what would happen if you stuck with the auto gauge cluster (besides looking like a d*ck with the gear selector indicators on your manual car)? I'm still gathering parts since this swap will be from auto to AR5 and I've only had the car for a week, so I'm just wrapping my head around what is ESSENTIAL and what just looks better (like the manual steering wheel). I've located a salvage yard within driving distance that has all of the interior bits I could need, so I'm just building my shopping list for IS based parts. Thanks for any help.

-Chris
manual cluster and manual steering wheel are not essential. The cars miles are stored in the cluster not ecu, so its probably a bad ideal to change it. another option is to replace the overlay from a manual onto your auto, though the odometer openings are missaligned slightly. or just leave it auto.

I am still concerned that the new manual ECU will not scan via OBD2 port and register the correct VIN for emissions
obd2 will continue to work, i dont believe the vin is stored in the ecu or even labled on the outside.
 

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Well I have a bigger issues, being that I have a 01 chassis. The 02-05 kick panel side harness plugs need to be repinned to match 01 chassis wiring. ....ughhhhh
 

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Well I have a bigger issues, being that I have a 01 chassis. The 02-05 kick panel side harness plugs need to be repinned to match 01 chassis wiring. ....ughhhhh
what did you end up doing, I have an 01 as well I thought my transmission was slipping so I replaced it with a 5 speed kept the AT ECU.....

how essential is it to use MT ECU?

Is there some sort of limp mode that all 11 of those CELs set??
 

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Can you just take an 01 a/t car and repin with correct connectors for 02+ with 02 ecu and call it a day?


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I think there is more to it than that, from what I understand 01's get their Speedo reading from ABS where as 02+ readings come from somewhere else I'm not sure exactly. I imagine one would have to take that in to account while repining the plugs.....

but if someone has done this PLEASE HELP!!!!
 

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Did your clutch pedal work in the position you have it pictured being installed? I just assembled my pedal and it is sprung fully engaged and it doesn't seem right but looking at your pictures I see yours was also fully engaged
 

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manual cluster and manual steering wheel are not essential. The cars miles are stored in the cluster not ecu, so its probably a bad ideal to change it. another option is to replace the overlay from a manual onto your auto, though the odometer openings are missaligned slightly. or just leave it auto.



obd2 will continue to work, i dont believe the vin is stored in the ecu or even labled on the outside.
I put a 2003 ECU in my 2005 and I no longer have a VIN number when I plug the OBD scanner into my car. I think the 2004-2005 have the VIN on the ECU and the 2002-2003 have it somewhere else. I can't pass inspection currently because of the VIN not being present. I have a 2005 ECU but I can't find anyone who can give me an answer about whether I can reprogram the VIN to my car.

For those of you who converted and used a manual ECU, Did your VIN stay the same on your 2002-2003 IS300? I mean you converted your 02/03 to manual, used a manual ECU and your car still shows your correct VIN when you plug in your OBD2 scanner. thanks to anyone who replies as this is giving me trouble more than the conversion itself.
 

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Contact the clean air people for your area. They should be able to give you an exemption or tell you what you need to do. We have done entire engines and computers different that the OEM for the body. It just needed all the original emissions equipment. Id tags should not stop it.
 

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Only 2005MY have the VIN saved on the ECU. Lexus and advanced scan tools can erase and program your VIN once the ECU is installed in the car.
 

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Hey guys got a puzzling electrical issue regarding this swap.

First of all the vehicle is a European model from the UK.

Okay wiring side I have connected up speedo and cruise control switch. By the way the cruise control switch is apparently wrong in the diagrams it should be normally closed and then open when the clutch is depressed. That made me scratch my head for a little while.

I can confirm via my Toyota Diagnostics tester that the Speed signal is present in the ECU and that the Clutch switch works

Anyway I've got all the diagrams and this is my problem.

Using the 2JZ M/T ECU I cannot get TRC light to turn off. I have tried the M/T cluster and the A/T cluster.
When I plug the A/T ECU back in then TRC works fine. I've checked it by using the TRC/SNOW button wired in as it should be and the SNOW works and the TRC works as it should. Also it works with either the M/T or A/T Cluster.
Plug the M/T ECU in and boom back to TRC not working. Also doesn't work wether using the M/T or A/T Cluster.

I've also checked ToyoDIY and both ECU's come from 2002 onwards vehicles so I know that is not an issue.

Has anybody else come across this issue. Just thinking somehow maybe American and European Skid Control ECU's are different.

Otherwise the only thing that I can think of is this bad boy in the diagram SE from the VSS to the cluster. Unfortuantely my tester doesn't allow me to see whether or not TRC is turning off or on but the fact that the TRC light does turn off in both clusters when the European ECU is put in leads me to believe that it is not a cluster issue. I'm only really grasping at straws with the SE wire as literally it is the only difference between this vehicle and full on manual IS300.

TIA.

Chris Talyor
 

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You're right, that's the part I mean.
What all did you guys have to remove to get that clutch pedal bracket in?

Did you remove the dash panel reinforcement or did you just start unplugging and removing stuff underneath that area?

I swapped to a larger clutch master cylinder when I swapped to a GTE + AR5. It was a huge pain just taking the clutch pedal out. I can’t imagine changing the bracket. I took all the little various sub ecus out so I could get my hands in there. A long extension and a wobble helped to get to the bolts. Good luck!
 

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I swapped to a larger clutch master cylinder when I swapped to a GTE + AR5. It was a huge pain just taking the clutch pedal out. I can’t imagine changing the bracket. I took all the little various sub ecus out so I could get my hands in there. A long extension and a wobble helped to get to the bolts. Good luck!
Yeah you said in the other thread it was harder than pulling the motor haha. Sounds like I may be taking out everything in front of the firewall then including the electronics and the steel dash support. The dash support could use some paint.. it's got some surface rust. Not a big deal but if it's out of the car I might as well.
 

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Yeah you said in the other thread it was harder than pulling the motor haha. Sounds like I may be taking out everything in front of the firewall then including the electronics and the steel dash support. The dash support could use some paint.. it's got some surface rust. Not a big deal but if it's out of the car I might as well.
Once I had the dash out, I don't remember it being particularly difficult. There's a bolt at the top but I believe it's the master cylinder bolts through the firewall that supported it the most. I felt that doing it with the dash in was near impossible.
 
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