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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello forums!
I’m fairly new and I was wondering what should I do with my IS300 to go turbo..

The top is done.
The bottom is what’s confusing me, I purchased MaxPeeding Rods thinking they were good. I heard I’m able to use stock 2JZ GE VVTi pistons that can hold 600 - 800WHP from supraforums so that’s out the way but the rods should I get stock VVTi rods or put my old VVTi rods back in because my main WHP goal is maybe 400 I’m looking for reliability because the car is an automatic and I’m thinking about eagle rods would that fit with stock pistons or just put back the stock rods and get new stock pistons and keep the boost low.
You guys let me know thank you.
 

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Do rods and pistons for your power goals. Otherwise 350whp is about the limit. There are several treads on this. I would suggest you search and read on the forum before asking.
 

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I heard I’m able to use stock 2JZ GE VVTi pistons that can hold 600 - 800WHP
That’s incorrect. Rods: GTE non-VVTi, GTE VVTi, and GE non-VVTi are all the same and would be an upgrade. GE VVTi rods are what the IS300 came with, and wouldn’t be an upgrade. Pistons: GTE VVTi and GE non VVTi, but they are not the same compression ratio. GE VVTi pistons would be very high CR for boost - don’t get me wrong, people do use these for low boost NA-T but the pistons are weak and not prone to lasting long. One or two lean out events and they’re done. If you want to spend some money and get good forged parts, look at Carillo, Manley, Mahle, Eagle, JE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That’s incorrect. Rods: GTE non-VVTi, GTE VVTi, and GE non-VVTi are all the same and would be an upgrade. GE VVTi rods are what the IS300 came with, and wouldn’t be an upgrade. Pistons: GTE VVTi and GE non VVTi, but they are not the same compression ratio. GE VVTi pistons would be very high CR for boost - don’t get me wrong, people do use these for low boost NA-T but the pistons are weak and not prone to lasting long. One or two lean out events and they’re done. If you want to spend some money and get good forged parts, look at Carillo, Manley, Mahle, Eagle, JE.
Thanks for the clarification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No problem, it gets confusing with all the abbreviations and whatnot. Do some reading/research like @01 SolarYellow suggests,nail down a goal, and go from there. You’re chasing your tail til then due to so many options.
You put me in the right track, it’s my first time trying to boost so I’m trying to stay low on WHP but thank you like I said 🙂
 

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What do you mean guys, I always run the dual VTEC FFIM.

Lol sorry, can’t help myself sometimes. In all seriousness, these cars are not cheap to boost. Having a power goal first will make achieving that goal logically an easier task.

If you want to keep everything mostly stock, you can shoot for 300whp. This can be done even with stock fuel injectors on ~5psi. Beyond that you will need fuel.

350whp is about the limit of the auto transmission without modifying it. Also as solar stated, it’s about the safe (beating on the car) limit of a stock VVTi GE motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What do you mean guys, I always run the dual VTEC FFIM.

Lol sorry, can’t help myself sometimes. In all seriousness, these cars are not cheap to boost. Having a power goal first will make achieving that goal logically an easier task.

mid you want to keep everything mostly stock, you can shoot for 300whp. This can be done even with stock fuel injectors on ~5psi

beyond that you will need fuel. 350whp is about the limit of the auto transmission without modifying it also as solar stated it’s about the safe (beating on the car) limit of a stock VVTi GE motor.
So I’m thinking stock rods and pistons ARP bolts a GTE head gasket

I don’t want to lower the CR because I don’t want to force myself to go turbo but if I ever wanted to add a kit I could.
 

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So I’m thinking stock rods and pistons ARP bolts a GTE head gasket

I don’t want to lower the CR because I don’t want to force myself to go turbo but if I ever wanted to add a kit I could.
Isn't the point of a thicker GTE head gasket to lower compression? TBH I still don't understand the logic behind buying an NA car to turbo instead of buying a factory turbo car to modify. Good luck man! Welcome!
 

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If you’re not going to turbo the car, really doesn’t make any sense to go through the trouble of pulling the head to do head studs. If you’re going through all that trouble, might as well put GTE rods and pistons in at the same time at the very minimum. Better yet buy nice rods and pistons.

I just don’t see the need todo things twice, even still do something once kinda half-assed.
 

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Isn't the point of a thicker GTE head gasket to lower compression?
TBH I still don't understand the logic behind buying an NA car to turbo instead of buying a factory turbo car to modify.
Good luck man! Welcome!
Yes you are right about the HG.

Sadly there are many chassis that never came turbocharged (in the states at least) or simply never came turbocharged at all. It is always going to be an expensive endeavor to get them boosted correctly. While I agree with you on the premise of buying a vehicle that is already boosted, I do also like modifying cars.
 

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I don't disagree with you....that is why i have spent an insane amount of money on my IS throughout its life. But its not to be taken lightly..it really has been.....A LOT of money. Furthermore, buying a factory turbo car allows you to blow your budget on BIGGER tubos and standalones which new age kids forgo because......you know. This I consider modifying cars just as much, I've had en enormous amount of fun modifying my brother in laws WRX.
 

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I don't disagree with you....that is why i have spent an insane amount of money on my IS throughout its life. But its not to be taken lightly..it really has been.....A LOT of money. Furthermore, buying a factory turbo car allows you to blow your budget on BIGGER tubos and standalones which new age kids forgo because......you know. This I consider modifying cars just as much, I've had en enormous amount of fun modifying my brother in laws WRX.
I agree to a point. Even with factory turbo cars, they have a limit they can get to before you have to rebuild the engine to handle more power. In the end, it comes to what car you enjoy driving and how much power you want to push. If you are pushing 300whp to 350whp.....most factory turbo cars can push that easily where as you are spending 10k+ for an IS300 to push that. If you are going for 600+whp....you'll be spending roughly the same for both factory and IS to get that power. Given that, there are some factory cars that can run up to 700+whp without rebuilding but those become ticking timebombs.
 
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