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I'm new here and this is the first ever how to I have done, so I hope that it is understandable and helpful.

When I was looking for a how to on the CDD Delete, I found a good thread, but there was still some questions I had, and I had to kind of figure it out as I went. I decided I will post a how to with the most simple and easy to understand instructions possible. Because anyone who has a manual NEEDS to do this mod. Its Cheap, Easy, and SUCH an improvement!

What you need:
- socket wrench with attachment size 10mm
- crescent wrench size 10mm and 13mm
- a towel/clear tubing and a bottle (depends on if you plan to reuse the fluid and keep the area clean. Tube is preferred, but a towel you don't care for will work)
- a tool to undo plastic clips (disclaimer, I broke one using this, so do so at your own risk).
ALSO: a lift/2 jack stands and a jack. I used the jack stands which resulted in me taking off my drivers side front wheel for ease of access.) A friend to pump the clutch. and additional brake fluid because you will be purging some out.

The replacement part used was bough from NAPA auto parts. The number for the part is 7934A. it is a 10mm to 10mm brake line union. Cost was less than $10 dollars. There are other options from FIGS, Autozone, Etc., but for this we will stay with the NAPA part.

Because I am having difficulty uploading pictures here (they are too big, and I'm not tech savvy enough), they will be in order in the link.

Step 1. use the 10mm wrench to undo the brake fittings at each end of the CDD, which is the big hexagon shaped object with the brass NAPA fitting on top. Be careful, the fluid will leak out a little after undoing these, so keep that towel handy. Brake fluid and paint aren't friends.

Step 2. Use the same 10mm wrench to undo the bolts that hold the CDD to the chasis. Keep em or toss em, your call, you won't need them again after this. I kept mine as well as my CDD just in case.

Step 3. Remove the CDD

Step 4. Use the NAPA fitting and start hand threading it onto the clutch line nearest the drivers side wheel. Go by hand at first to avoid any cross threading. Otherwise, enjoy leaking fluid. once it is threaded, use the 13mm wrench around the center of the NAPA fitting to hold it steady while you use the 10mm wrench to tighten up the fitting to the Napa part.

Step 5. After doing this, you will need to GENTLY bend the clutch line closest to the drivers side wheel. As you saw in the earlier picture, the new part is significantly smaller, so you need to bend the line. It isn't hard to bend, i just used my hands and bent it a little more towards the front of the car.

Step 6. Repeat step 4 with the other line. Hand thread first, then tighten with wrenches.

This completes the first part of the CDD Delete. You MUST do part 2 as well, otherwise you will ruin your clutch or just not be able to drive your car at all.


Step 1. Jack up/ lift the car so you can work under it. USE STANDS, don't just work under a jack. If you use jacks, remove the front drivers side wheel, it will make things WAY easier to access, I promise you that.

Step 2. EYE PROTECTION. You will be near/under harmful fluid, don't be a dummy.

Step 3. Get your towel/ Bleeder tube and bottle handy, you will be needing them soon. Also, unscrew the brake reservoir cap, and prepare to put more fluid in. NEVER let the fluid get past min, last thing you want is for more air to get into the system, that is what you are trying to bleed out.

Step 4. Get under the car. If you still have your plastics on, you may need to remove them to get to the bleeder screw.

DESCRIPTION: Once you get to the under the car pictures, you will see a red unit in the background dead center of picture. The nub on top is the bleeder screw. That is what we need to access and have mobility enough to loosen and tighten the nut. I also highly recommend a wrench that has the socket on one end for ease of turning quickly back and forth this nut. It is the size 10mm.

Step 5. Remove whatever panel screws/bolts you need. I removed 3, just to pull down the panel enough to get my arm and wrench to the bleeder. I don't have pictures of what bolts, but you can see there is predominantly 1 panel that is in the way. Only 1 panel attachment is a plastic screw (which I broke lol) but the other 2 are metal bolts with 10mm heads.

Step 6. Attach the tube to the nose of the bleeder and run the tube to the bottle to contain it, or put the towel right underneath the bleeder to soak up all the fluid that will be coming out. Attach your wrench around the base of the bleeder to loosen and tighten it.

Step 7. Have your friend ready to pump the clutch. This is the order of events as you bleed the clutch of air. Use these commands to assist with the quickness of bleeding it and lack of misunderstanding.

Use PUSH to tell your friend to slowly depress the clutch.
Use DOWN for your friend to tell you they are near the end of the clutch depression movement.
Use OFF to tell your friend to bring the clutch back to the top.

as he pushes, loosen the bleeder screw until fluid comes out. Should be just a quick 90 degree turn.
Friend: DOWN
quickly tighten up the bleeder the same 90 degree turn to close the travel of the fluid out and prevent air from entering.
You: OFF


Do this until the clutch is bleeding only liquid. It will take about 10 minutes in my experience, and I was making sure to play it safe. You can tell there is air either by bubbles in the tube or spattering/weak stream from the bleeder. Have your friend periodically check the brake fluid to make sure that it is still above minimum and refill as needed.

Once it is complete, you are ready to put everything back as it was, and enjoy your new feeling clutch! It should feel a lot more responsive in the way of knowing and feeling exactly when it catches the gear instead of the laggy and ambiguous pre CDDD clutch.


PICS: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

1 Posts
I did exactly this. I purchased a 3/16ths brass brake union from oriely auto parts... not a 10mm but it threaded easily and worked just fine, no general retailer like autozone or oreileys carries 10mm. The whole process took me about 30 min. And let me say this... I've seen many many posts on this "mod" for our cars. A lot of people love it, and a lot of people say it's worthless. If you're anything like me, i notice the slightest changes in the way my car feels and operates, especially clutch feel. The difference this made was OUTSTANDING as far as clutch performance. Clutch is much more predictable, rev matching is so much better, I mean it's all around one of the favorite things I've done to my IS.... MUST HAVE!!!
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