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AEM FI/C would be a better choice than f10x... no?
 

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For sure. It's not a matter of better....It's that the F10x is not an option due to it's lack of timing control.
 

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Well I would be all for the EMU, but I'm worried about getting it tuned. I know I can't do it myself, and I live in Iowa, not exactly an excelled area with automotive performance hahaha... I'm not sure what to do yet...
 

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I am sure teck can send you some base maps or maps that he has perfected. That should get you used to tuning the car and you can tune it yourself after or have it sent out.

If I go emu, I have a place that deals directly with Trust/Greddy and they are authorized dealer and tuner of greddy products. I got the best of both worlds for tuning AEM and EMU. Now its just a matter of price.


Wing: did you go with an is300 boomslang pnp harness or did you go with something different.

Going along with this, does the water sensor on the GTE match the IS300's harness or do you have to swap out the sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #146
i went with boomslang pnp harness. It was stupid simple to hook up. The hardest thing (and it wasn't really hard just time consuming) was getting the fat connectors thru the groument (sp) in the firewall since my Emanage is mounted behind my pedals underneath the dash. Then I have a really long USB cable comming out thru one of the ports under the driverside AC vent so I can easily hook up my laptop.

As for the water temp sensor, just swap the GE one, YOU KNOW that will work with the harness and the ECU for sure. I don't think there are any differences in how it detects but it MAY communicate differently with the ECU itself. I could be wrong on this though.

Logically the main reason you should be swapping all the GE stuff over to the GTE motor is because you are using the IS ECU and to eliminate any gremlins, use sensors that are designed to work with this ECU. Your piggy back should take care of the differences and will be "assisting" the ECU with performance.
 

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Well, the MJT version is for auto's (as in cars, not transmissions). It has somewhere around 900 cca's for the first 5 seconds and 800 something for the next 10-15 seconds. MOre than enough. I got the next step up.
 

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What diameter is your fuel return line and no one I called seems to have 15 feet of it. Teck, didnt you say you had a bunch? If so I need the same amount or the amount you think I will need.

Oh, btw, a little something came in the mail for me today






Teck, do you have a pic of the barb you used to connect the is300 fuel IN line to the GTE fuel rail?
 

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Hrmm..I can't remember if my line was 3/8 or 5/16ths... I sold the rest of my spool to someone on the boards already. Get the line, and than the corresponding correct size barb. There's no real trick to it.

That PC925MJT is the exact batt I'm using.
 

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I used 5/16" hose with a barb to -6an fitting that mates to -6AN SS hose I had plummed from my boosted GE. Autozone should sell Goodyear fuel hose cheaply if you plan to use rubber all the way back.
 

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Great write up above.

With the motor and in keeping the stock transmission what would you estimate your final build cost at? Not including any extras, just motor, and all encompassing parts to finish swap.

I am planning my next build for this winter; I have a shop, and all the amenities, have built 2 RB25DET's, and one RB26DETT. I'm sick of Nissan's shotty build quality and want to get into Toyota's.

This swap, though traction WILL be an issue, seems right up my alley.

Just want a rough guesstimate.

Thanks, Greg.
 
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