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I'm going to stop neg. contributing to this thread....you cant believe every thing you read online. ;) I'll make a better contribution when I have this bad boy apart in my garage next week!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I'm going to stop neg. contributing to this thread....you cant believe every thing you read online. ;) I'll make a better contribution when I have this bad boy apart in my garage next week!
Shame on you!!! LOL JK
 

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I'm going to stop neg. contributing to this thread....you cant believe every thing you read online. ;) I'll make a better contribution when I have this bad boy apart in my garage next week!
At least now you'll have a jump start. :) Best of luck.
 

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1:1 OE FPR and a standalone should be a nice working combo. No need for rising rate unless your using winky little injectors. Plus there is a cap off to how much a rising rate helps, its not a linear graph line, fuel pressure increase = more fuel, it starts to taper off to the point of no increase at all.

Sequential is overrated, get more from your injectors :p JK

I like your wide band teck, I went with the DB series, gets the job done, but yours is teh nice. Shoulda done my homework haha.
 

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I have a couple questions if I were to get the entire front clip from an Aristo.

- Is there a "best" year to get? Or are all of them pretty much equal?

- Can the Aristo motor, wiring, and ECU be put into the IS300 without too much hassle? Or should I just put in the motor and run a standalone ECU?

- Should the 4speed transmission be put in or should I leave my stock 5 speed manual? I'm not planning on getting more power than what the stock Aristo outputs.
 

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1:1 OE FPR and a standalone should be a nice working combo. No need for rising rate unless your using winky little injectors. Plus there is a cap off to how much a rising rate helps, its not a linear graph line, fuel pressure increase = more fuel, it starts to taper off to the point of no increase at all.

. . . .

Rising rate regulators main purpose is to offest the boost pressure in the intake tract not to increase the amount of fuel injected at higher boost pressures. If you are running 40psi of boost and have 40psi fuel pressure in your fuel rail even when the injector open there is no pressure differential therefore no way for the fuel to "flow" out of the rail.
 

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teck, what flywheel are you running? Sc300? Supra?

I want to run a stock flywheel on mine bc I am going to run the w55 untill I get my w58.

Stock is300 flywheel with w55

Stock sc300 flywheel with w58? stock sc300 clutch with w58?
 

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I'm running a supra NA flywheel for the weight savings without going a super lightweight AL one.

W55 or W58 really has no bearing on the flywheel u can use.

It's more about the clutch/PP that you choose as that has to be matched to the sprung/unsprung flywheel.
 

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Rising rate regulators main purpose is to offest the boost pressure in the intake tract not to increase the amount of fuel injected at higher boost pressures. If you are running 40psi of boost and have 40psi fuel pressure in your fuel rail even when the injector open there is no pressure differential therefore no way for the fuel to "flow" out of the rail.
I guess I should have been more specific. 1:1 is a "rising rate" fpr, and I had just noted its a good item for boost.

What I meant by then countering in the next sentance that a rising rate is not necessary, is what I meant is the types of regulators mentioned on these boards that are more than a 1:1, for the application of getting enough fuel out of OE injectors with the OE ECU's n/a tune to actually run rich in boost. I beleive they are have a "gain" setting, and can raise fuel presssure in a lon-linear way.

Note to self, use proper terminology to avoid basic auto 101 leasons. Sorry if I come off pissed sounding, but I had recently just did a bunch of re-plumbing of my TRD S/C setup to utilize the FPR setup properly, and so getting a lecture on how it works was a smack to the face, not to mention my post (#53) clearly demonstrates I have a grasp of what these devices do, and how it is in relation to tuning/injector characteristics.
 

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Hey guys, did you use your IS300 powersteering and a/c compressor or the GTEs'? All the lines on the gte's are cut . I think it would work just to unbolt them from the GE while still on the car, and leave them hang out of the way and rebolt them to the gte?
 

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ok sweet. How in the hell did you get your crank damper pulley off! I gave up on the breaker bar and i am going to toyota to see if i can coax them to let me have the Specialty tool they use.

For reference for the sticky:

Part # 09213-70010 is the crankshaft pulley holding tool
Part # 09330-00021 Companion Flange holding tool (includes pin)
 

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do I have to have a powersteering cooler like tecks? or can i just re-route it around/infront/ behind the intercooler?


Edit: I am also pulling the crank pulley to replace the front main seal, and going to replace the rear main seal also. I also have to take it off to reach the tensioner for the timing belt to replace the timing belt.
 

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You can do whatever u like...just make sure you have some sort of PS cooler.
 

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Umm, I just look at the ignition coils for both my aristo and my IS, and they are the same. they both have the same number and everything on them.

I thought the gte's came with individual coil packs with no wasted spark?

Why do they look the same? Are the aristos wasted spark also?
 

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Yup. Makes you wonder y everyone thinks they need more spark for <400hp huh? Those very same wasted spark coilpacks work just dandy with a .44gap.
 

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Yeah, identical. I have a set of usdm GTE coil packs that I'll be adapting over from the GE...wired in wasted spark they still make a + diff.

Are you guys oem usdm Supra plugs?
 
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