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Did you still run your coolant lines from the upper radiator hose to the turbos? Or did you run them souly on the oil feed lines?

How many o2' ports does the gte have? We have like 3 right? How many ports will we have to create on the dp or w/e?
 

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Nice writeup but I still don't understand why you would remove the wastegate actuators and wire the gates open...

If you want to eliminate the turbos coming on sequentially, can't you just use a T on the actuator vacuum lines and attach them to the same source so they both come into boost at the same time with a boost controller? Or are the stock actuators set at different boost levels?

Wiring the gates open will cause the turbos to spin to ungodly speeds to reach desired boost levels instead of spooling up to the desired boost and letting the gates relieve exhaust pressure to control boost pressure.

Nate
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I ran mine on the oil lines alone.

As for the wastegates, from what I understand that is one of the TTC mod methods that the supra guys use. I got it on MKIV.com As for overboost, I believe a boost controller will remedy that....again correct me if I am wrong guys. Cuz if I am, I'm gonna have a GREAT time pulling that motor again...:jawDrop:
 

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I ran mine on the oil lines alone.

As for the wastegates, from what I understand that is one of the TTC mod methods that the supra guys use. I got it on MKIV.com As for overboost, I believe a boost controller will remedy that....again correct me if I am wrong guys. Cuz if I am, I'm gonna have a GREAT time pulling that motor again...:jawDrop:

To properly control boost you will have to put those 2 actuators back on. Those aren't the exhaust valve you remove for the TTC. You have to remove the exhaust valve on the bottom of the exhaust setup below the o2 sensor location. I had to take mine to a machine shop to have it removed.
 

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. . . Wiring the gates open will cause the turbos to spin to ungodly speeds to reach desired boost levels instead of spooling up to the desired boost and letting the gates relieve exhaust pressure to control boost pressure.

Nate
Wiring the waste gate flappers open will not cause the turbos to spin faster to reach the same boost levels. It will just take them much much longer to reach their operational rpm. Now if there was a giant intake leak that would cause the turbos to spin a lot faster to make the same boost level.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
MKIV.COM

That is where I got the information. However instead of keeping the actuators on, I simply removed them since after you wire the gates open, they aren't doing a damn thing. On top of that, the stock vacuum lines are not being use on my motor.
 

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Wiring the waste gate flappers open will not cause the turbos to spin faster to reach the same boost levels. It will just take them much much longer to reach their operational rpm. Now if there was a giant intake leak that would cause the turbos to spin a lot faster to make the same boost level.
Yeah, that was a my bad. I was on Mars somewhere yesterday and was thinking back asswards. I was standing in the garage last night going "uh der."

Nate
 

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Let's try to clear up some things...

The stock turbos are plumbed for both water and oil.

The stock turbos have internal waste gates.

The peripheral flaps are NOT waste gates. They are control flaps to regulate the sequential operation of the twins...but without the stock ECU managing the VSVs, they are irrelevant and become restrictions. I cut out my EGCV with a plasma cutter, as well as every other control valve for a true twin conversion.

It's handy to have a welder though to fill in the holes left by the missing actuator rods.



 

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Let's try to clear up some things...

The stock turbos are plumbed for both water and oil.

The stock turbos have internal waste gates.

The peripheral flaps are NOT waste gates. They are control flaps to regulate the sequential operation of the twins...but without the stock ECU managing the VSVs, they are irrelevant and become restrictions. I cut out my EGCV with a plasma cutter, as well as every other control valve for a true twin conversion.

It's handy to have a welder though to fill in the holes left by the missing actuator rods.

I am aware of all of that and have done the same things you have to go TTC. My original question was to see how anyone who has done this swap (and kept the stock twins) how they plumbed the stock wastegate actuators being that they both have 2 ports. I was just curious if you guys used a rubber vacuum plug for the 2nd ports and if so how have they held up in the underhood heat. Or have you done what I did in my second picture and t-eed off to plug into both ports. Sorry this thread got so confusing over what I thought would be a simple to answer question.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
thanks Mr. Paul for clearing things, you understand this stuff WAY better than me...I am in no way an expert at this stuff, but merely started the thread to give information on how I did my swap and sorta a compilation of all the information that I have gathered from everyone here as well as myself.

For my perspective, everything that has been plugged with rubber caps have held up just fine. However most my caps are on the intake side.
 

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I am aware of all of that and have done the same things you have to go TTC. My original question was to see how anyone who has done this swap (and kept the stock twins) how they plumbed the stock wastegate actuators being that they both have 2 ports. I was just curious if you guys used a rubber vacuum plug for the 2nd ports and if so how have they held up in the underhood heat. Or have you done what I did in my second picture and t-eed off to plug into both ports. Sorry this thread got so confusing over what I thought would be a simple to answer question.
Ahh.. Just for clarification, there is one wastegate that controls both turbos. The rear actuator is not a wastegate but a prespool controller.

Yes, just cap off the front wastegate actuator lower nipple with a rubber vacuum plug. Leave the top line in place to the compressor housing. That's unless you have a boost controller.

Also...for anyone doing this swap, please look into "restrictor rings" before you grenade your motor due overboost.
 

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Ahh.. Just for clarification, there is one wastegate that controls both turbos. The rear actuator is not a wastegate but a prespool controller.

. . . .


Your post got me worried so I went and pulled the heatshield off my motor on the stand and that rear actuator in the 2nd pic that I posted is most definetly a wastegate actuator for the rear turbo. The only exhaust bypass the front actuator is doing is past the front turbo.
 

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There is only 1 wastegate and that is on the front turbo.

The rear may look like a wastegate from the outside but is functionally a prespool control gate for the second turbo in sequential mode. It is not even plumbed correctly to act as a wastegate if u wanted it to. It is known as the EBV, exhaust bypass valve.

The two turbos work as a larger single system when they are both enabled. You do not need more than 1 wastegate to control the 2 turbos in TTC.
 

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how much power does the stock auto tranny can hold?

I believe its gonna break eventually since it wasnt designed for this high HP

isnt it better to use the aristo tranny in this case?
 
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