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The may only do the signal. If it does the right timing and changes. It does not do the heat. So you will still have a cel come up using the O2's for heat. That being said. You still must get the right resistance for the heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The may only do the signal. If it does the right timing and changes. It does not do the heat. So you will still have a cel come up using the O2's for heat. That being said. You still must get the right resistance for the heat.
After closer examination of their installation guide, it keeps the heater wires intact. So as long as my o2 heater isn't faulty, it will function as it should. The module just messes with the signal going back to the ecm
 

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looks like the Area 74 one is a like different from the token solution style ones. Won’t matter to you but if that thing is $120 then I wouldn’t pay for than $60 for a token solution one.

Though it would take ~$2 and 5 minutes to make one to give you an idea of the complexity involved. The Area 74 is probably a little bit more robust for newer vehicles or vehicles that performs emissions equipment check like if you car had a smog pump for example. These cars are very simple in that regard and a 555 timer based one will work. It doesn’t look like anyone is making the 555 timer ones readily (especially since they are garbage for newer vehicles).

If these Area ones are what’s readily available, then I’m pretty sure they’ll work fine. If you buy an electronics kit and learn soldering, then you can create 555 timers for a few $ every time the simulator breaks. 🤷
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The may only do the signal. If it does the right timing and changes. It does not do the heat. So you will still have a cel come up using the O2's for heat. That being said. You still must get the right resistance for the heat.
Oh and I should have mentioned that for the time being I'm keeping my o2's installed cuz I'm still stock AF.
looks like the Area 74 one is a like different from the token solution style ones. Won’t matter to you but if that thing is $120 then I wouldn’t pay for than $60 for a token solution one.

Though it would take ~$2 and 5 minutes to make one to give you an idea of the complexity involved. The Area 74 is probably a little bit more robust for newer vehicles or vehicles that performs emissions equipment check like if you car had a smog pump for example. These cars are very simple in that regard and a 555 timer based one will work. It doesn’t look like anyone is making the 555 timer ones readily (especially since they are garbage for newer vehicles).

If these Area ones are what’s readily available, then I’m pretty sure they’ll work fine. If you buy an electronics kit and learn soldering, then you can create 555 timers for a few $ every time the simulator breaks. 🤷
I'm gonna research making a 555 then, I've already got all the soldering equipment. Thank you very much for your input man!
 

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I'm gonna research making a 555 then, I've already got all the soldering equipment. Thank you very much for your input man!
This one has the bonus of being tested on the IS30

The circuits floating out there should all be just about the same but knowing one works specifically is always good.
 

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After closer examination of their installation guide, it keeps the heater wires intact. So as long as my o2 heater isn't faulty, it will function as it should. The module just messes with the signal going back to the ecm
It will throw a cell. The temp is not the same. When you delete cats.

You would need a ballast resister on the heater sides. I do not remember the size.
 

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It will throw a cell. The temp is not the same. When you delete cats.

You would need a ballast resister on the heater sides. I do not remember the size.
this is correct. i actually have one of the original token solutions prototypes on my car, was testing it for them, once the cats are gone, you'll still throw a CEL
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It will throw a cell. The temp is not the same. When you delete cats.

You would need a ballast resister on the heater sides. I do not remember the size.
Not deleting cats just yet, so I'll do the resistor when I do that down the road. Probably won't do it until I do my turbo setup. I appreciate your input!
 
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