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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. I'm planning on throwing a different Colorado AR5 into my is300 soon and was contemplating getting a different clutch. I initially got a 6 puck, but it's just not a smooth as I'd like it to be.

Aside from getting a custom clutch, there are nearly no options available that I can find. The one option I could find that seemed a potentially better alternative (since its a full disc) is still for performance application by Ram:

RAM Clutches 379 RAM 300 Series Clutch Discs | Summit Racing

I couldn't find many reviews on their 300 level clutches but some said was good for daily driving. Could this be better than the 6 puck I have below?

Action 6 Puck Disc for AR-5 GM Trans (driftmotion.com)
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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I highly recommend the DriftMotion kevlar full face discs. I have driven like 3 manual cars before this and I feel as if mine is no harder to drive because of the OEM pressure plate (and full face). I imagine the brand new parts helped a lot too, but even my friends who have sat in or driven the car say it drives great. I'm sure the pucked one will drive nice as well, but I don't know your full setup.
 

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Puck clutches tend to be “grabby” and coupled with a HD pressure plate they are not very “slippable”. It’s usually an on-off affair. You can have a custom clutch disc made and it’s usually not much more than an off the shelf part, you just have to wait for it. You’d need to know the splining (1.125”x26), diameter, and thickness of the disc.

I don’t know enough about disc thicknesses to advise if you could substitute an off the shelf T56 disc between an R154 flywheel and pressure plate. Wouldn’t be hard to figure out though.

I can say that the McLeod JZ-T56 will work on an JZ-AR5. I’m running an RST twin and a Tilton 60-6105 that bolts right up to the front bearing retainer of the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Everything is oem Toyota (pressure plate, flywheel, etc..) aside from the clutch.

Sometimes it's nearly impossible to get the car rolling just using the clutch without it shaking bad. I'm not sure if this is engine mount related, either way I plan on replacing them. I installed the transmission at least 5 times before I ran the car, so the mounts definitely got stretched.

Ideally, I would keep my clutch and fix the other issues to see how the situation improves, but I can only take the car apart so many times - it's my only car and time is scarce. In a sense, replacing the clutch thus far could be considered throwing money at the issue...

I'm really looking to hear how difficult one should expect a stock motor 2jz with a 6 puck should be to daily drive. I didn't think it would be bad considering the oem flywheel, but my experience is limited so I don't know what to expect.
 

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Colorado AR5 is a viable swap?!
Yeah. It’s not super well-documented but there’s a few threads outlining it. I think the main issues are the shifter takes a custom part to get it in the right spot, and the input shaft is a little too long. In fact, this thread by the OP is probably the best I have seen about it.
 

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Following this ... (y)

And wait a minute ... Colorado AR5 is a viable swap?!
The first instance I know of is quite a while back. This clublexus thread here: 666hp/ar5/frankenstein - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion. It’s a lot more complicated than a Solstice AR5 swap. Honestly, I didn’t think the shifter mount would clear the tunnel. At least another member here has made it work as well.


Everything is oem Toyota (pressure plate, flywheel, etc..) aside from the clutch. I am trying to replace the trans because of a bad whining that I am now thinking is occurring because I modified the input shaft incorrectly.

Sometimes it's nearly impossible to get the car rolling just using the clutch without it shaking bad. I'm not sure if this is engine mount related, either way I plan on replacing them.

Idealistically, I would keep my clutch and fix the other issues to see if the car becomes much better, but I can only take the car apart so many times. In a sense, replacing the clutch thus far could be considered throwing money at the issue...

I'm really looking to hear how difficult one should expect a stock motor 2jz with 6 puck should be to daily drive. I didn't think it would be bad considering the oem flywheel, but I'm pretty darn inexperienced so I don't know what to expect.
The car shaking while releasing the clutch can be due to a lot of things. It can be your driving. I don’t know your history with manual cars. In my experience, I had to slip the clutch from 2000rpm with a McLeod full face to get rolling but I had 2.66 1st gear. (Nowadays I use a secondary rev limiter ie 2 step for steep hills and crap) Also since it’s a 6 puck, it might be chattering and that’ll make the shake worst as well. Also also, don’t use just the clutch to get rolling. Balance your clutch and throttle and brake/handbrake inputs.

One way to check if it’s the motor mounts is simply looking at the engine while revving in neutral. If an engine mount is bad, the engine would probably rock pretty bad and unevenly. Good motor mounts should show a controlled twist if that makes sense.
 

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Sometimes it's nearly impossible to get the car rolling just using the clutch without it shaking bad. I'm not sure if this is engine mount related, either way I plan on replacing them. I installed the transmission at least 5 times before I ran the car, so the mounts definitely got stretched.
Isn't that just how it goes? Especially with a grabby clutch? I slip mine every time because I thought that's how you do it.
 

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I'm really looking to hear how difficult one should expect a stock motor 2jz with a 6 puck should be to daily drive.
It's terrible. For reference, I'm over 40 years old and I've driven manuals my entire lift. In fact, I've never owned an automatic car.

When I bought my IS300, it came with a ceramic 6 puck clutch and the drivability was absolute terrible. I thought it was because the clutch/flywheel was warped/abused - so I bought a replacement (ceramic puck) clutch and resurfaced the flywheel. Drivability was still terrible. Then I addressed my engine and transmission mounts to ensure they were tip-top. No improvement.

To some extent you can get used to it - basically you have to avoid slipping the clutch as much as you possibly can. With the right combination of throttle and clutch engagement, you can nearly "dump" the clutch yet still get going from a stop in a fairly smooth way... but it's a hassle and any error will result in a stall or a bunch of clutch chatter.

TL;DR: What you want is a full-faced clutch disc. Avoid ceramic materials, they are very grabby and hate to slip.
 

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..... a stock motor 2jz with a 6 puck should be to daily drive...
I am trying to imagine why you wanted a puck when the engine is stock? As mentioned they arent nice to daily, and really only needed if you are making a ton of power ... and even then there are better (but probably more expensive) alternatives as the others mention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I meant to respond to this thread sooner.

After reading through the input, it seems the 6 puck really is that bad.

To some extent you can get used to it - basically you have to avoid slipping the clutch as much as you possibly can. With the right combination of throttle and clutch engagement, you can nearly "dump" the clutch yet still get going from a stop in a fairly smooth way... but it's a hassle and any error will result in a stall or a bunch of clutch chatter.

TL;DR: What you want is a full-faced clutch disc. Avoid ceramic materials, they are very grabby and hate to slip.
It really has been terrible, as I have to navigate to the 5th floor of a parking garage daily with those speed bumps that violently jolt a vehicle moving above 5mph. Given my lowered ride height, I aim to traverse each one slower than walking pace, making the journey a blast.

Needless to say I've been dumping the clutch frequently, and feeling like a moron in doing so. Of course I recall your advice against getting a 6 puck some months ago. I figured a heavier flywheel as opposed to your lightweight would balance things out - lesson learned.

Isn't that just how it goes? Especially with a grabby clutch? I slip mine every time because I thought that's how you do it.
I am trying to imagine why you wanted a puck when the engine is stock? As mentioned they arent nice to daily, and really only needed if you are making a ton of power ... and even then there are better (but probably more expensive) alternatives as the others mention.
The number of threads via various forums out there with members claiming a puck clutch isn't bad to daily is decent, and my case, was convincing enough. Regardless, I wasn't entirely sure which clutch to get since I had never replaced one before, and thus went with Driftmotion's recommended 6 puck for the ar5 swaps.

The car shaking while releasing the clutch can be due to a lot of things. It can be your driving. I don’t know your history with manual cars. In my experience, I had to slip the clutch from 2000rpm with a McLeod full face to get rolling but I had 2.66 1st gear. (Nowadays I use a secondary rev limiter ie 2 step for steep hills and crap) Also since it’s a 6 puck, it might be chattering and that’ll make the shake worst as well. Also also, don’t use just the clutch to get rolling. Balance your clutch and throttle and brake/handbrake inputs.

One way to check if it’s the motor mounts is simply looking at the engine while revving in neutral. If an engine mount is bad, the engine would probably rock pretty bad and unevenly. Good motor mounts should show a controlled twist if that makes sense.
I am used to being able to let the clutch out slow to be able to get the car rolling. I was using this as a baseline each time I started the car in the morning, but not practically while driving. I figured it should be possible given the colorado's 3.75 first gear and auto differential.

I took note of your motor mount test/procedure. It makes sense.


So I do plan on getting a new clutch. Either the one I posted initially (provided nobody objects):

RAM Clutches 379 RAM 300 Series Clutch Discs | Summit Racing

Or:

McLeod 760519: STREET TUNER 2JZ 26 SPLIN - JEGS High Performance

after the various McLeod recommendations. Both are full face, and I think both organically composed; McLeod doesn't specify. I think I'm leaning towards the Ram one still since I already have a pressure plate.

I hold everyone's collective input dearly, and have nobody else to ask for advice, so I really appreciate all the responses. I can't wait to have the car running like stock again. Hopefully soon.
 
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