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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking I may put a stock motor/trans back in my Lexus if its not too much work. I cant stand trying to figure out someone else's mess. Assuming I get a junkyard setup out of an 02-up, it should just be a matter of removing the Boomslang PNP and AEM FIC, plugging the ECU back up, and running a new header/exhaust, right?
My current setup is some half-finished NA-T setup with an AEM FIC, of unknown origin/history, that I just dont feel comfortable with, unless I pull it, put it on a stand, and walk back through the motor and entire setup....Its a really clean and nice car otherwise, that i'd like to drive. (Impluse purchase, I was searching for a clean daily and got sidetracked lol)
 

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Looks pretty clean, considering the shitshows I’ve seen. They used boomslanf PNP, so that is a plus. If you can post what ecu pins the blackbox is connected to, I bet we could figure out what the box is. Maybe a maf clamp or maybe an O2 sim?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks pretty clean, considering the shitshows I’ve seen. They used boomslanf PNP, so that is a plus. If you can post what ecu pins the blackbox is connected to, I bet we could figure out what the box is. Maybe a maf clamp or maybe an O2 sim?
Well I'm slowly peeling layers off this onion...unplugged the Boomslang to get a better look and have this oily substance in the last plug? ? Safe to clean with electric cleaner spray I hope... Didn't see oil anywhere else inside or on lid though??? I'm gonna dig a little deeper...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Now I'm seeing alot I don't like...cut wires, garbage patches. If anyone is familiar with Boomslang AEM FIC pnp, please chime in with what you see or don't see plz...one wire was pulled out of the pnp harness before I even unplugged it, the one that connects to my "mystery black boxes". Any idea what they are? Also 3 cut Boomslang wires?
 

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Man, you’re gonna have to sit down and look at each plug to figure it out.



Those links will help you sort it out. It isn’t as pretty as the first couple pics had led me to be. Plus electrical tape is for amateurs. Good crimps or solder/shrink is the only way. And I’d research some Deustch connectors if you’re really going to re do it. They make it clean and removable. I’m sure the PO had good intentions but their wallet or time was the constraint. The cars got good bones with the GTE parts and a Borg turbo. Fix the wiring and use the FIC or shelf it and get a standalone.

I feel like the relay is probably a “reset relay” to help clear fuel trims from the stock ecu. It breaks constant power to the stock ecu when the key is off to reset it every time you drive it. The thin box is probably a O2 sim. But you’re gonna have to chase wires and pins to know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That relay is wired in with the black box....I really need the Boomslang instructions (if there is such a thing)
 

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I think there were a couple options to wire it - you may email Boomslang Fab and see if they’ll send some docs on it. It’s pretty much plug n play, so whatever the PO altered should be pretty reversible. Just makes me wonder what they needed to change it for.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im starting a new thread, to explore this "onion" build. Please stop by.

As far as going back stock, im thinking Ill need a new air intake (aftermarket or stock box, whatever I can get cheap), and exhaust, to include header or stock manifold. The car currently dumps straight from the header to a single 2.5 inch glasspack/cherry bomb, then straight out the back. I was going straight to the exhaust shop for 3" HKS if I had gotten it running half-assed. Single rear o2 bung with sensor, they must have eliminated the other rear o2 when wiring for the AEM af/r.
 

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I will be the first to say i dont know that much about the wiring side of the swaps, but purely from an economics side i would be wondering if it would be a similar price to go to a rewire with standalone on the engine you already have installed than try and swap back to NA. The reverse swap would no doubt have other complications with wiring, having to undo all the changes someone has made to it, at least with the standalone you would end up with the boosted setup. Also you could be getting an old motor with more miles on it than the chassis, with other problems.

Of course it all depends where you want it to end up, and how much you like THAT car as opposed to selling it and getting an unmolested one as someone else already mentioned.
 
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