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Discussion Starter #1
So I had an event that happen to me but lucky I was not moving while this happen. I just got off work and started the car.
My alternator Broke off from its mounting points which are the water pump(top mount) and the bottom... Engine Block. I had to sleep in the car for about 15 Hours since it happen to me around 6pm and the tow company's weren't answering.
I was thinking of just buying a new cheap water pump 40$ , and swap it , get some JB Puddy and cover the cracked chunk where the block is and drive it like that until I get some more information about this..event..
There are two post about this problem However! They do not provide any information at the after and ending of this issue nor any follow up information. Here are the Links;

alternator broke of engine block! - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

Alternator Broken off block

Please I need help and am not sure what to do next after this.

Please senpai's of the lexus's halp me

TT^TT tears of sadness
 

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2002 Lexus IS300
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The water pump will solve the top mounting point. That block mount though. Idk. The strongest JB weld is worth a try. I would clean the area of oil and ANY debris as best you can. Then follow the directions as best you can.
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Updates: 7/12/2020
I plan to update this daily,
someday, someone will run into this problem, and I hope this post can help them.

Here is the Reason why i am using JB Weld for the bottom block based on this Link/Video :
 

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Lols at your senpai comment. Anyway I know of people who had iron blocks welded although it requires a specialist. I was I told of someone who once screwed the wrong bolt into a block and left it with a hole. They called a welder to patch it.
 

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MSM 2005 Lexus IS300 5AT
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Here's a couple threads I found... First one justifies that it's possible to weld, second one is of a guy who fabbed up a bracket to fix it:

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update
Lols at your senpai comment. Anyway I know of people who had iron blocks welded although it requires a specialist. I was I told of someone who once screwed the wrong bolt into a block and left it with a hole. They called a welder to patch it.
Hello,
Do you happen to know How much it would cost?
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's a couple threads I found... First one justifies that it's possible to weld, second one is of a guy who fabbed up a bracket to fix it:

Hello~thank yous
These are kinda of, giving me the idea of what I need to do and make?
The pictures in the first Forum isn't available sadly, and some of the ideas from the people in the chat are helpful.
The Second Post is great because of pictures however the pictures aren't too clear, not that many angles to look at, and don't give me a lot of specs.(thicc-ness UwU) (LxHxTxA?)(LegthxHeightxThicc-nessxAngles)

HOWEVER!, I am grateful and very happy to see the data! 8 to 10! that's a A (10 is S god-tier)

Thank you, So much I really needed this and I hope to get the car running ASAP.
I'll keep posting and Updating.
Thank you mister, you are a good man.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update 7/12/20
I had to take a nap because Sleeping in a car isn't the Best Feeling, never the less I am back with an Update with some pictures.
I hope this can help other's some day in the future.
is300 alternator all pieces.jpg Main viewing of broken pieces..jpg Water PUmp Mount Broken.jpg Broken Pieces and labled.jpg
Broken view of the side.jpg Broken.jpg Main View of Broken Mount Block.jpg Rear View of Broken Broken piece.jpg
Size of the Broken Mount.jpg Upper View Of broken.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update 7/13/20

Ok so starting my day at 8:00am, after my two jobs taking the bus and light rails to work and back home, it was 7:50pm and got to work on the car because there wasn't going to much sun light left.
  • Took out the Radiator /[2] 10mm Bolts on the top mounts /Disconnected upper and lower radiator hose /Last the transmission oil cooling hoses.[Drained all the coolant and saved it in a bucket for later use]
  • Took off the hex bolts mount to 1st belt covers [The Belt was already loose on the broken mounts on the alternator]
  • Took the Main Bolt for the Crank Shaft [22mm]
  • Took off the Crank Shaft Pully [With a Bolt Sytle Pully remover Tool]
  • Took the hydraulic tensioner [3 12mm bolts]
  • Took off the 2nd Belt Cover with a mix of 10mm bolts and Hex bolts.
  • Used a Drill with a steel brush to clean the Broken area of the bottom mount of the alternator.[Because it was so dark I could not have more time to clean it sadly]
  • Quickly and carefully try to good pictures of the Area of Damage.[It Got Crazy Dark Fast]
And I stopped here because around...8:35pm it was Pitch Black outside and I don't own a house so I worked on the streets.
Taking off the crank bolt 1st angle.jpg
Broken Area 4.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ALSO , One more Thing, After coming Inside using the drill with a Brush wire Clean the Broken Piece I Noticed something Really off about it.. I think Its Been Welded Before!!
I mean to me, this does not look how a cast iron Block would Look after coming out of a manufacturer from Lexus/Toyota!
...I need help.... I Live in California in the city of san jose is there anyone can sell me their skills to fix this?
let me know please.
Its been welded before..jpg
 

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I would still try JB weld. Put it directly on where the surfaces mate AND all around the piece to give more surface area for the JB weld to bond to.

I would NOT put JB weld onto the front where the bolt goes in and not on the back where it comes out.
After it completely dries and sets, I would find a bolt that just barely fits INSIDE the original block threads and just buy a bolt that’s just long enough to slide through the alternator tab and the block tab and use washers on both ends and tighten it up just enough. Too much might cause it to fall off again.

Obviously your not in the business of having to swap out a long block to fix this issue. That’s the only other option aside from trying to get it welded again.
 

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I was looking at that and thinking it has been welded before as well.

I have never used JB Weld before, i am guessing it is some kind of bonding agent available in the US? Personally i am not much of a fan of bonding agents or metal adhesives, they might be fine for light weight holding of things, but given this is a part thats already under stress and has cracked I would not be convinced it is going to hold well. I would be taking it in to a pro to get it welded up properly. I say properly as that looks more like a tack weld, there is no chamfering of the edges to get the weld to penetrate sufficiently. I would also think the same as Mr Mannered and put a smaller bolt through with a flat washer so the bolt is squashing the alternator onto the flat and making the web take more of the stress instead of all being on that small part of the web thats already weakened and welded.
 

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I’ve used JB weld on a cylinder block to “fix” putting near the coolant jackets that was causing coolant to enter the combustion chamber on a 2000 civic engine. I used it exactly how it directed. Then sanded it down flat to match the block. It held for a year until my buddy sold it. It is designed to withstand 4500+ psi tensile. It should be ok if you can get a solid clean surface and use it correctly.

of course I don’t know the future but it’s worth a try and it’s cheap. About $10 from Home Depot.
 

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JB weld is not designed for that type of fix. JB weld does not hold metal together under that kind of stress. It better suited for replacing metal that will be under pressure, ie. you stripped the threads in that hole then you could use JB weld to repair the threads.

You will need to weld that piece to repair it. It definitely looks like it was welded on once before. You may need to ask your welder to add some additional steel for reinforcement.

Next time I have my hood open I will certainly be checking my alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update 7-16-20 Car is Running!
Alright So Sorry about the Delay, However my car is running and driving now,
I have been running around with both my job and its been hard to balance the time to work on the car and both my jobs plus the amount of time I had.

Never the less I WON and Its Running Baby!
So Here's what I did.

--Cleaned the Area Of both the Broken bracket and the Area of damage with steel brush with a drill.

--Used the OEM jack to press the area where I needed pressure to hold the broken bracket with the JB Weld and the area where it meets.

--Put Everything Back that didn't touch the JB welded Area.

--ReCheck All Timing Components.

--Waited for 24 hours to fully cure.

--ReChecking all torque Specs for components Crank Bolt, hydraulic tensioner, exhaust cam,and intake cam.

--Put Everything back together ,Mounting back the Alternator Belts, Radiator, upper,lower hoses, transmission fluid cooling lines, temp cooling switch and radiator cooling switch(2).

First Night to place Bracket OEM jack.jpg Closer Look oem jack.jpg Closer! Big Brain.jpg
Rechecking Crank Timing.jpg Rechecking Cam Timing.jpg rechecking VVTI Timing.jpg
Putting everything together but still needs to Cure.jpg

And Winner Winner Chicken Dinner~! It Runs and Feels Fine.
(90mph Feels Fine)
WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER.jpg

I Will Keep Everyone Updated. and Will let you know if it Fails and How long it will last.
 

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Jb weld FTW! I told you it would work (fingers crossed)
 

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Nice, i hope it does hold! I thought you might smear more around as mentioned above to give it more to hold on to, bracing. :cool:

Problem is going to be if it comes loose again that will be another water pump broken :cautious:
 
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