Lexus IS Forum banner

Alex's 2004 8N6 IS300 NA-T build

65K views 311 replies 24 participants last post by  blackmenace 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone. I've owned my 2004 IS300 for nearly a year now and I'm in the process of gathering all of the required parts for an NA-T build for low boost. It's an automatic, but it will still be a blast to drive.

EDIT: Here's a parts list as of Oct. 2020 with the completed NA-T setup having over 1k miles on it:


Part description:Quantity:
Fuel Return-
Aeromotive A1000 FPR with 6an fittings1
Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump part number 115421
Aristo fuel pump hanger with return fitting from ebay - no need to modify it at all1
6an braided nylon hose 15ft1
6an orb push lock fittings for FPR2
1/8NPT tap for oem fuel rail1
1/8NPT to 3/8" barb 90 degree fitting1
11/32" drill bit for fuel rail hole1
Engine-
NKG BKR7E Spark Plugs6
NGK blue spark plug wires1
OEM MLS exhaust manifold gaskets 2 per set1
Suprastore.com "Supra 1JZ 2JZ OEM Exhaust Short Studs and Nut Package for Single Turbo Manifolds"1
CX Racing NA-T T4 turbo manifold1
CX Racing NA-T intercooler1
CX Racing NA-T intercooler piping1
CX Racing NA-T downpipe and midpipe1
CX Racing NA-T turbo intake pipe 4" with 1 connection port
Turbosmart 45MM hypergate wastegate1
Tial Q 50MM BOV - Had the flange welded to the CX racing pipe to replace the greddy flange1
Garrett T04S 60-1 turbo with P Trim turbine wheel and PTE .68 T4 turbine housing1
Exhaust wrap 100ft for manifold and downpipe and dump pipe1
KL downstream o2 sims1
Merged primary o2 sensors -use pigtail from b1s1 o2 sensor and tap into the b2s1 sensor wires (blue and white wires). Plug this into the b1s1 connection near the water pump. Do not merge the black heater wires. Instead plug the b1s1 pigtail heater wires into a spare o2 sensor and leave it dangling in the engine bay secured. This will result in no o2 codes and both upstream sensors being close fuel trims. You could also add another bung for the b1s1 o2 sensor that is dangling because it will get hot.1
Ebay catch can routed to both valve covers and the turbo intake pipe1
Approximately 30" turbo oil feed line AN4 with proper turbo oil feed adapter1
Oil feed line tee to pressure sender - EBAY: "1/8" BSPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee to NPT Adapter"1
Allen bolts for turbo mounting on 3/4 spots - 1.5 pitch M10 hex bolts. 25 length would work3
Stud and nut for turbo mounting hole closest to the bank 2 o2 sensor connection - EBAY: "Turbo Stainless Stud Kit & Egged nuts M10x1.5 For Garrett GT40 GT42 Turbo"1
ABS Relocate-
Summit part URR-BSCJ312 - 5 pieces of 12" brake line1
Summit part EDD-274000 - brake union need 5 of these5
Summit part URR-BR210 - 6 piece brake flare nut, OR reuse the nuts from the cut lines1
Rented flare tool from autozone1
Battery relocate-
Summit part TAY-480001
Oil Drain-
Metal turbo drain line - Dorman 625-2121
3/8-18 NPT tap1
37/64" drill bit1
3/8 NPT to 10AN straight fitting1
7/8" high temp blue rubber hose 1 ft.1
Exhaust-
Tanabe super medallion axleback
DNA motoring resonator
Note: You cannot use the stock muffler, it's too restrictive and will cause the WG to open early
Electronics-
AEM FIC and boomslang harness
AEM UEGO X Series wideband
AEM Boost Gauge
Hose routing-
Intake manifold y pipe pcv connection block off
Intake manifold y pipe fuel rail connection block off
Both valve cover PCV hoses to catch can
Catch can top port to turbo intake pipe


Original post follows-

Background:

When I first got the car it had about 180k miles on it and it had a few of the common oil leaks from the valve covers and cam seals. I decided to do a complete refresh (VC gaskets, cam seals, PCV valve, VVTI gear o-ring, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, serpentine belt, crank seal, spark plugs, ngk plug wires). After all that was done, the engine runs perfectly and has no leaks. I also replaced the transmission mount and rear differential mounts which were both completely torn. My car came without LSD, but I installed an FRS LSD in it.

Next I decided to fix the squeaks and rattles in the front suspension. The previous owner installed function form coilovers and the car was really low. I raised it back up immediately and noticed that the lower control arms, ball joints, and tie-rod ends were toast so they were replaced. I also ended up replacing the power steering pump and rack because the previous owner didn't use ATF and instead used power steering fluid. The pump whined like crazy and the rack was really too tight to move the wheel. Those issues are now resolved with replacement parts installed.

The car is my daily driver and consistently gets about 20 miles to the gallon and has ice cold A/C...which is a blessing in the Las Vegas summer.

Over the coming months, I'll be installing the parts that I've gathering and be posting videos on youtube and photos here to document the progress.

Here's a pic of how it looks today:

 
See less See more
1
  • Like
Reactions: reklipz
#306 ·
I'm back! Been working on my car the past couple weeks and I've got the dodo lower and gte upper installed on the bad engine in the car and it runs...with a lot of blowby because its down a cylinder or 2 due to bad rings or pistons. Made new fuel feed and return lines for the dodo fuel rail and there were no leaks. I took my turbo manifold off and removed the wrap and had o2 sensor bungs added to runner 1 and 6 so I can try to make the stock ecu happy with the piggyback and the gte intake without a merged o2 situation. I'll have pictures and videos soon. The engine is so dusty from sitting l...I'm embarrassed to post any of it currently. Also, I believe that I'll be able to adapt the existing intercooler piping using some 2.5 inch intercooler piping i already had to reroute for the FFIM setup. My next step is to remove the blown engine and put the built engine into the car. I'm hoping to get this done over the next few weeks.
 
#307 ·
Teaser photo with the s366sxe turbo I picked up for a deal awhile back.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior
 
#308 ·
Built motor is in the car with the r154 attached. Still a lot of buttoning up to do, but good things are coming soon.


Motor vehicle Automotive design Auto part Engineering Machine


Fidanza exhaust cam gear is in there too.

Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Tread
 
#309 · (Edited)
I ended up having a leak from the exhaust cam seal after running the engine for awhile. I decided to replace both cam seals and the leak is now fixed. I also have 2 new denso o2 sensors to install to the turbo manifold bungs that I had added to my manifold when it was removed.

As of now I have maybe 15 minutes of idle time on the new motor and it seems to run ok. Currently on stock ecu with the FIC6 piggyback that allows me to dial in the aftermarket 550cc injectors. I was fighting the stock fuel trimming a bit as the engine warmed up, but I think that's due to a bad b2s1 sensor. For now, both upstream o2 sensors are disconnected.

I have the engine setup for NA currently with an inline 2.75inch MAF adapter pipe connected to the GTE FFIM TB. I need to clean out the intercooler and piping of all the oil that was pushed into them when the old motor failed and filled the catch can. After it's clean, I will connect the boost pipes and work on tuning it more so it's road ready. I also ordered a new catch can from jackspania racing that will work better with the 10an bungs i have on the valve covers.

I also removed the oem fan shroud and installed a cheap ebay shroud and fans. I wired the fans so that they are plug and play to the oem fan connectors using some pigtails I grabbed from the junk yard. I love how much room there is to get to the crank pulley without the factory shroud. I installed a cheap coolant reservoir on the passenger side of the radiator and that seems to fit fine.

I was able to get a 30 day moving permit from the dmv last week, so I have till the first week of November to figure out smog or something else.

Here's a pic of how it sits currently. It's going to look waaaay better once I clean everything, wrap the lines in heat sleeve, repaint the pipes black, and route the intercooler piping properly.

Motor vehicle Auto part Automotive super charger part Automotive fuel system Automotive air manifold


I did a mock up using the piping i had and it will basically look like this, but I have a black coupler to replace that red one.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Personal luxury car Automotive fuel system
 
#311 ·
Some updates...

I'm abandoning the stock ecu/piggyback altogether as I'll be getting classic car plates for it.

I'm going full speed ahead with the standalone emu black. I've installed a fuel pressure, flex fuel, IAT, and external MAP sensors. I'll also be installing an oil pressure and temperature sensor soon.

I've driven the car a couple times and made 8psi on it. It felt great. I'm working on some other upgrades including a bti 7 inch screen retrofit into a nav housing and a dual caliper setup with psm handle. I was able to retain the stock ebrake with the dual caliper.

I'll add some better pics soon, but here's an updated engine bay pic:

Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Auto part Automotive air manifold
 
Top